Batboard

I tried searching this forum and could not find anyone discussing this issue. I know someone that has a CDM1550 and recently purchased a remote kit. The radio functioned perfectly without the remote kit installed. Now the head does not function correctly, the speaker works but the buttons and screen do not. After disassembling the head and applying pressure to the board, it comes back to life. This sounds common due to the design of this head. Does anyone know of ways to permanently fix it? Thanks!

Sounds like maybe it wasn't properly installed. The symptoms are indicative of the CH PCB not being properly seated and the compression contacts not making full contact. Ensure the tabs on the PCB are properly aligned with the grooves in the housing

escomm wrote:Sounds like maybe it wasn't properly installed. The symptoms are indicative of the CH PCB not being properly seated and the compression contacts not making full contact. Ensure the tabs on the PCB are properly aligned with the grooves in the housing

So it sounds like the remote kit should have came with some replacement clips. I don't see a way to re-use the clips that were for the dash-mount configuration.

escomm wrote:Sounds like maybe it wasn't properly installed. The symptoms are indicative of the CH PCB not being properly seated and the compression contacts not making full contact. Ensure the tabs on the PCB are properly aligned with the grooves in the housing

Now that I have had a chance to take a working CDM with remote head apart I see what you mean by the tabs on the PCB not being properly aligned with the housing. I'm trying to troubleshoot this radio via Slack, so I haven't actually been able to get my hands on it. Does anyone else have any other suggestions?

The board just kind of snaps into the head, then the remote kit adapter should hold it in place. It can be a bit tricky the first time you do one, the board will sometimes pop out a bit when you try to put the head onto the remote kit or the radio. You have to makes sure the board is seated all the way, then I find it helps to squeeze the control head slightly as you press the head and adapter together.

One other problem with the remote kits is that sometimes the solder lugs on the speaker can short out to the circuit board. There's very little clearance between the lugs and the board so I always put some insulation on the remote kit board to keep it from touching. If it does short, the radio chassis will become quite hot and the radio can be damaged.

jackhackett wrote:The board just kind of snaps into the head, then the remote kit adapter should hold it in place. It can be a bit tricky the first time you do one, the board will sometimes pop out a bit when you try to put the head onto the remote kit or the radio. You have to makes sure the board is seated all the way, then I find it helps to squeeze the control head slightly as you press the head and adapter together.

One other problem with the remote kits is that sometimes the solder lugs on the speaker can short out to the circuit board. There's very little clearance between the lugs and the board so I always put some insulation on the remote kit board to keep it from touching. If it does short, the radio chassis will become quite hot and the radio can be damaged.

Thanks, I'll take a look.

Also keep in mind the spacer that is present in the dash configuration is aside and not used in the remote configuration.