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Has anyone had experience running the heavy gauge power cable for Spectra 100W radio through the firewall of a 2013 Ford Explorer? I couldn't find a way to pass the cable through the main wire bundle in the fire wall. Any help or advice is much appreciated.
Thanks

Drill a new hole if you cannot find an existing hole. After you drill the hole make sure to install a rubber grommet in the new hole to protect the wires going through the firewall.

redfish72 wrote:Has anyone had experience running the heavy gauge power cable for Spectra 100W radio through the firewall of a 2013 Ford Explorer? I couldn't find a way to pass the cable through the main wire bundle in the fire wall. Any help or advice is much appreciated.
Thanks

There are a number of rubber grommets already used under the dash. Most of them have enough open space to add the power wire. I normally just use a Philips screwdriver to poke a hole in one of them to run the wire through. If the rubber is really tough, I will use a drill to make the hole. Just be careful using the drill that you don't tear up any of the existing wires.

Put your head up under the dash by the brake peddle and look around. You will find one where the main wire bundle comes through, the emergency brake cable and so on. Pick one and use it. Just remember to look on the engine side before you proceed. Make sure you have enough room and not getting close to a hot engine part.

Why would you need to there is a power block in the trunk.

Good luck, you can only go out that firewall in a couple of places, if it is the police version, there is a power block in the rear. If not, you will need to drill a hole, you cannot go through the same rubber bulkhead as the car wiring.

spectragod wrote:Good luck, you can only go out that firewall in a couple of places, if it is the police version, there is a power block in the rear. If not, you will need to drill a hole, you cannot go through the same rubber bulkhead as the car wiring.

Please explain to the group why you can't use an existing "rubber bulkhead" as the car wiring is using.

Putting a hole in a factory grommet is really never recommended. There is too much chance for damaging the factory wiring. Its just lazy in my opinion. My shop has always found a place to drill a firewall hole and use a rubber grommet. The only time we will use a factory grommet is if its designed for it like on the charger.

FireCpt809 wrote:Putting a hole in a factory grommet is really never recommended. There is too much chance for damaging the factory wiring. Its just lazy in my opinion. My shop has always found a place to drill a firewall hole and use a rubber grommet. The only time we will use a factory grommet is if its designed for it like on the charger.

^^^^^^^This, and the rubber is very hard on this model car. I have found a couple decent places to breech the fire wall, neither was much fun, really tight and components needed to be moved to get where you could get a drill in there. This is one vehicle that your not just going to punch a hole in and move on, there is some planning involved.

Wow......
He said a Ford Explorer.... He never said a Ford Police Interceptor Utility.
With that said lets scratch the rear power point and there will not be any of the other power points available in the front console.
As others have stated here.... It is never a good idea to use a factory wire passthrough (grommet) for various reasons. If you nick a wire and the vehicle has to go in for an electrical issue they WILL point the finger at the installer and IF the grommet leaks any fluids and a warranty issue comes up they will again point the finger at the installer.
Do the job properly. Drill your own hole and protect it properly with a grommet and sealant.

On the passenger side compartmen, way up high in the corner nearest the door (you'll have to remove the plastic cover under the dash, above the footwell), there is a a grommet with a floppy tube passing through it. This is the windshield wiper fluid line running from the front reservoir to the rear wiper. You can pass the power line through at that point. Under the hood you'll have a slightly more difficult time finding the exact location. Trace this tube and do the rest by touch. It's back behind some stuff.

After having a lot of difficulty finding a place to drill, I stopped by the dealer and spoke to a mechanic. This is the point he recommended.

Thankfully, I've only had to do an install on one new Explorer so far, but this worked location worked great. Just be careful to not poke anything sharp through the windshield wiper fluid tubing.

I am currently wiring my wife's 2013 Ford Explorer XLT for trailer wiring & electric brakes. Both need a pass-thru-the-firewall (2) 12ga power wires.
I've only wired a half dozen vehicles for camping trailer & elec brakes. I once paid a Co a lot of money (in another state)to wire my new vehicle, when
I went there to pick up a camping trailer at an RV dealership. I saw that it was a horrible job when I got home & I had to re-do it. Exposed unshielded
brake wiring in/out frame & partial trailer lights didn't work.

This 2013 Ford Explorer was such a PIA, that I would gladly have paid somebody local to do it. Just didn't know who. I've had crappy wiring jobs (partial
not working after they removed all my wiring tags - said they didn't need them) at car dealers too. I had to take half of the rear compartment apart to
attach the trailer wiring module (remember when you could just pop a tail light & splice wires ?) and had to connect wire junction boxes to BOTH insides
of this vehicle.

Since most of the interior was out, I ran the 2 (shielded) power wires up the inside (under plastic door guards) to the front of the vehicle.

Now, to run it thru the vehicle firewall. One guy here said avoid the power block & head for the passenger side. Yea, right. My arms would not go any where
up in there. Spent a long time removing the glove compartment & this was a waste of time.

Checked out the main wiring block where it appeared to go thru the fire wall & I thought "no way". I looked thru this plastic cowling by the windshield & saw
this was a false front & there was another HUGE rubber grommet bolted down behind. I removed the shock tower support strut. I removed a couple layers of
plastic.(between windshield & hood) I ended up using a sm gear puller just to get the freakin windshield wiper arms off.

Un-bolted this wiring grommet cover & lifted up. There was PLENTY of room for more wire. Shined a bright flashlight in there to see if I had a clear shot to underneath
the dash & DID ! This was the easiest way for me to go & now it's (2 12ga wires) thru the rubber & bolted back down.

This is how I did it. I think I'd rather re-wire the previous 5 SUV's for trailer & elec brake wiring then do another 2013 Ford Explorer.