ht1000 rear chassis swap and transmit light

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explorer1046
Posts: 60
Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2005 10:24 am

ht1000 rear chassis swap and transmit light

Post by explorer1046 »

Does anyone have the necessary steps to swap out the rear chassis of a
HT1000? I obtained a ht1000 off a govt auction and the battery clips
have broken off. (JEDI BACKPLATE/CHASSIS - 1505892U06 formerly
1505892U01/REX4575A )


I also have another ht1000 radio which appears to work fine except for there is no transmit light. The light does blink green when i pwr the unit up.....just no red transmit light. (the transmit light is enabled on the configs)

any help would be appreciated
AEC
No Longer Registered
Posts: 1889
Joined: Wed Dec 22, 2004 7:56 pm

Post by AEC »

Changing the frame is an easy task, but you MUST use caution when removing the side flex as it is adhered to the frame and does NOT come off easily, if force is used, you will damage the flex and the radio will be useless until it is replaced.

There are clips on the cover/shield that have to be removed, as well as a front cover flex assy. that is held in place in a socket on the controller board on the lower half ogf the radio, lift upwards on the 'ears' of the socket and pull out the flex cable.

Once the cable and clips are removed, you will have to remove the cover along with the top controls of the radio as they are all one piece, and may also be adhered to the frame in several places, be careful here, one wrong slip and the flex will tear and you will have to buy a new one.

Do everything in a step-by-step progression, noting how things are connected and located on the radio's frame.

The emergency button is a lone piece that will fall off if you aren't careful.

The gasket can be pried up and over the controls so you can slide that assy. away from the frame, and I do mean slide, it will NOT lift straight up, don't even try it.

There are no screws to remove, so that's one less headache to worry about.

The radio is easy to work on, just take your time with removing the shield and flex assy, those are the areas that need attention the most.
Nand
Posts: 1691
Joined: Wed Oct 31, 2001 4:00 pm

Post by Nand »

The newer frames (same part number as the older U6 ones) have a built up board-locating pin near the top of the frame. If your RF board does not have a slot for it, but a small round hole instead, then the board needs to be modified so it can lay flat. There is a Motorola tool and jig available to change this hole into a “U” shape. I small key file will do the same. The round hole RF board will not fit properly if the mod isn’t done.

Nand.
Nand
Posts: 1691
Joined: Wed Oct 31, 2001 4:00 pm

Post by Nand »

The red/green LED is likely a problem with the flex connector or flex in the lowest part of the radio. Check for water damage or physical damage. The connector solder joints may be broken.

Nand.
Nand
Posts: 1691
Joined: Wed Oct 31, 2001 4:00 pm

Post by Nand »

AEC wrote:Changing the frame is an easy task, but you MUST use caution when removing the side flex as it is adhered to the frame and does NOT come off easily, if force is used, you will damage the flex and the radio will be useless until it is replaced.
If you mean the control flex, it is not attached to the frame. It is stuck to the shield.

Heating up the old frame and very careful pealing of the label without bending or stretching it, does remove the serial label from the frame. In most cases, the glue stays with the label and it will stick nicely to the new frame.

Nand.
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