Can anyone help me out on this one?
Thanks
Saber II went deaf...
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Saber II went deaf...
I have a Saber II here, the radio doesn't receive. I pressed the monitor button and it would open the squelch as usual, but deaf on anything even if I key another radio 2 feet away from it. The radio transmits fine however.
Can anyone help me out on this one?
Thanks
Can anyone help me out on this one?
Thanks
You can try opening it up and removing and reseating the modules a few times and then put it all back together and see what happens. I had a Saber I that did that, must have been a bad connection on one of the modules.
Otherwise it's a bad receiver module since the transmit still works fine.
Otherwise it's a bad receiver module since the transmit still works fine.
Duct tape is like the force, it has a dark side and a light side and it holds the universe together.
"I Reject Your Reality And Substitute My Own!" - Adam Savage
"I Reject Your Reality And Substitute My Own!" - Adam Savage
Aside from a defective U4(Rcvr.), the U5 5-pole filter could have light corrosion under the tabs, or one of the tabs has broken off, if this is so, then the radio will not receive as well as U5 is neccessary in the Rcvr. chain.
But Scott is correct, bent pins, loose pins in sockets....all play a major part in proper operation.
The pins on the main modules are phosphor bronze and VERY easily broken off with even one good bend.
Modules should slide into their positions with very little pressure to seat them firmly on the board.
But Scott is correct, bent pins, loose pins in sockets....all play a major part in proper operation.
The pins on the main modules are phosphor bronze and VERY easily broken off with even one good bend.
Modules should slide into their positions with very little pressure to seat them firmly on the board.
U4/U5 both of which have been mentioned already.
A bad synth will do the same thing but, since you can TX, that doesn't seem to be the case here.
Check out http://www.batlounge.us/showthread.php?t=307
That post contains the Saber Theory and Maintenance manual.
A bad synth will do the same thing but, since you can TX, that doesn't seem to be the case here.
Check out http://www.batlounge.us/showthread.php?t=307
That post contains the Saber Theory and Maintenance manual.
One problem that I had pop up on two radios with similar troubles was caused by improper screws being used to secure the back cover on those radios.
If they are too long, the screws will cut traces on the synthesizer boards as I have 'decased' a few and found this to be fact.
Replaced rear cover screws are a major problem, they MUST be of proper length ONLY!
One trace is directly under one screw, and if that is too long, it will cut into the board and cut the trace in two places, and prevent transmission, but not reception.
I'm with Scott on this...a bad U4, receiver module.
The worst is the main board PIN diodes, but the radio would still 'hear', albeit deaf.
Odds are a defective U4.
If they are too long, the screws will cut traces on the synthesizer boards as I have 'decased' a few and found this to be fact.
Replaced rear cover screws are a major problem, they MUST be of proper length ONLY!
One trace is directly under one screw, and if that is too long, it will cut into the board and cut the trace in two places, and prevent transmission, but not reception.
I'm with Scott on this...a bad U4, receiver module.
The worst is the main board PIN diodes, but the radio would still 'hear', albeit deaf.
Odds are a defective U4.
Well as AEC said, someone apparently took the synthesizer out to play and now one of the nut that holds the screw to the controller is missing...so I'm now in the market for a new synthesizer, 440-470. I would appreciate if you can order it from big M and I'll pay the cost of the part and labor+shipping.
Thanks everyone
Thanks everyone
Your better off getting another used radio as far as that goes. Buy a cheaper Saber I and rob parts from it.
I doubt that it's available from Moto anywhere, and if it were, heck i bet you could buy a dozen used radios for the price of that one replacement module from Moto.
I doubt that it's available from Moto anywhere, and if it were, heck i bet you could buy a dozen used radios for the price of that one replacement module from Moto.
Duct tape is like the force, it has a dark side and a light side and it holds the universe together.
"I Reject Your Reality And Substitute My Own!" - Adam Savage
"I Reject Your Reality And Substitute My Own!" - Adam Savage
This is going to be a huge PITA, but if you have a screw in the center of the synthesizer, this will make the job much simpler, if it's the stamped metal enclosure, then you will have troubles.
HERE GOES:
For the module that has the screw.....remove it, and the cover, there are seven solder(gnd) connections to the board and body that need to be desoldered so you can remove the synth. board from its case.
The task is difficult only because you need to apply good heat to small areas many times over, and the case will get hot, but you can retrofit a good synthesizer into another housing, I've done this three times now and all three still work.
ANY band splt module case that is similar can be used, so you can 'swap' internal boards of a different split and use it to get yours back into operation.
The stamped metal modules are a bear as they are spot welded and do NOT like to disassemble easily at all, and the flimsy covers tear easily as well, which makes them hazardous to fingers.
I found the versions of each module to be somewhat separate from the style of module.
Be it stamped or screw top, I had them both and had both with later versions, so I have no idea if one design is newer than the other.
Once the cast 'nut' has been pushed out of the retainer in the module, you should not attempt to operate the radio as the nut will fall down and short the pins to the main board and you'll have bigger problems on your hands than a bad synthesizer.
Once you remove the board, or even with it still in its case, you can look into the two holes to see if there are any screw marks on the board, and if there are, 99% chance the trace has been cut to prohibit transmit.
It's the only trace that's directly under a single screw, but the good news is that it is easy to repair.
I hope this tidbit of info helps....
I tossed out repairable modules before I tried this method of repair.
HERE GOES:
For the module that has the screw.....remove it, and the cover, there are seven solder(gnd) connections to the board and body that need to be desoldered so you can remove the synth. board from its case.
The task is difficult only because you need to apply good heat to small areas many times over, and the case will get hot, but you can retrofit a good synthesizer into another housing, I've done this three times now and all three still work.
ANY band splt module case that is similar can be used, so you can 'swap' internal boards of a different split and use it to get yours back into operation.
The stamped metal modules are a bear as they are spot welded and do NOT like to disassemble easily at all, and the flimsy covers tear easily as well, which makes them hazardous to fingers.
I found the versions of each module to be somewhat separate from the style of module.
Be it stamped or screw top, I had them both and had both with later versions, so I have no idea if one design is newer than the other.
Once the cast 'nut' has been pushed out of the retainer in the module, you should not attempt to operate the radio as the nut will fall down and short the pins to the main board and you'll have bigger problems on your hands than a bad synthesizer.
Once you remove the board, or even with it still in its case, you can look into the two holes to see if there are any screw marks on the board, and if there are, 99% chance the trace has been cut to prohibit transmit.
It's the only trace that's directly under a single screw, but the good news is that it is easy to repair.
I hope this tidbit of info helps....
I tossed out repairable modules before I tried this method of repair.