gentlemen
does an HCN1033D control head work with a spectra?
system 9000 control head question
Moderator: Queue Moderator
system 9000 control head question
Joel
KE7JOI
1 900 Spectra
1 VHF Spectra
3 900 GTX Portables
1 900 GTX Mobile
KE7JOI
1 900 Spectra
1 VHF Spectra
3 900 GTX Portables
1 900 GTX Mobile
Re: system 9000 control head question
It should work with a Spectra and a Spectra X9000.
It probably has the 2816 EEPROM in it. Depends on how many channels your looking to use the radio
with. You can change out the 2816 for a 2864 and get a boat load more channels the head will be
able to control. Will also open up the scan and alpha labels you can use. Plus the head is able to
provide multiple PL selections.
Note if you change the EEPROM out from a 2816 to the 2864, you will have to move a surface mount
zero ohm resistor. It should be JU4 right now. If you change the 2 K to an 8 K EEPROM, the jumper
will have to move to JU5. Both jumper locations are right next to each other under the metal shield
on the board.
You will have to split the head open to make the EEPROM mods. Need a T15 Torx driver for the 2 back
screws. You will need a T10 driver for the internal board screws. Be careful while working on the
internal guts. These are CMOS devices and you need to work on an anti static surface for full
protection. While you have the head apart, you might want to look at how dirty all the buttons are.
Many times these heads have drinks spilled into them. It has a tendency to sort of gum up the
functionality of the buttons. You might even have a button that isn't working. Clean the head
faceplate with a soft tooth brush and some warm soapy water. You can do the same with the
buttons. Be careful and make a list of where the buttons are placed. It is easy to remove a few
buttons and forget which position they came out of.
If your going to be brave and take the buttons out, be real careful while trying to remove the large
clear plastic molded part that holds all the buttons in. I find that if you take a small tool and go into
one of the notches on the large end, you can gently pry it up. Be careful not to apply too much
pressure in trying to get the long thin sides to come up. You can snap these if you get too rough.
You will also find that the gunk will build up on the white rubber membrain that stays with the digital
display. Handle this with care. Sometimes the goop gets under the membrain and onto the small
carbon disc used to make the contact with the circuit board. Some alcohol on a Q tip works wonders
to clean the carbon disc and the circuit board. Make sure they are dry before putting them together
again. Also not that there will be a small tip extending off the rubber membrain. This has to fit into a
small hole in the circuit board when you put it all together again.
Be careful how you treat the clear shaded plastic plate over the digital display. This will scratch
very easy. A soft cloth or maybe a Q tip will work well. If there is a bunch of crud on the front panel,
you might want to try using some 409. Again be careful as there is some painted wording on the
front of the clear space panel. Too much cleaner or rubbing and you will take the paint right off.
When you go to snap the front and back parts of the head together, you will notice that you will have
to put one side on before you push them together. I miss this sometimes and get the 2 screws back
in and notice the pieces are not together correctly. Have to take the screws back out and work the
pieces into proper position.
Jim
It probably has the 2816 EEPROM in it. Depends on how many channels your looking to use the radio
with. You can change out the 2816 for a 2864 and get a boat load more channels the head will be
able to control. Will also open up the scan and alpha labels you can use. Plus the head is able to
provide multiple PL selections.
Note if you change the EEPROM out from a 2816 to the 2864, you will have to move a surface mount
zero ohm resistor. It should be JU4 right now. If you change the 2 K to an 8 K EEPROM, the jumper
will have to move to JU5. Both jumper locations are right next to each other under the metal shield
on the board.
You will have to split the head open to make the EEPROM mods. Need a T15 Torx driver for the 2 back
screws. You will need a T10 driver for the internal board screws. Be careful while working on the
internal guts. These are CMOS devices and you need to work on an anti static surface for full
protection. While you have the head apart, you might want to look at how dirty all the buttons are.
Many times these heads have drinks spilled into them. It has a tendency to sort of gum up the
functionality of the buttons. You might even have a button that isn't working. Clean the head
faceplate with a soft tooth brush and some warm soapy water. You can do the same with the
buttons. Be careful and make a list of where the buttons are placed. It is easy to remove a few
buttons and forget which position they came out of.
If your going to be brave and take the buttons out, be real careful while trying to remove the large
clear plastic molded part that holds all the buttons in. I find that if you take a small tool and go into
one of the notches on the large end, you can gently pry it up. Be careful not to apply too much
pressure in trying to get the long thin sides to come up. You can snap these if you get too rough.
You will also find that the gunk will build up on the white rubber membrain that stays with the digital
display. Handle this with care. Sometimes the goop gets under the membrain and onto the small
carbon disc used to make the contact with the circuit board. Some alcohol on a Q tip works wonders
to clean the carbon disc and the circuit board. Make sure they are dry before putting them together
again. Also not that there will be a small tip extending off the rubber membrain. This has to fit into a
small hole in the circuit board when you put it all together again.
Be careful how you treat the clear shaded plastic plate over the digital display. This will scratch
very easy. A soft cloth or maybe a Q tip will work well. If there is a bunch of crud on the front panel,
you might want to try using some 409. Again be careful as there is some painted wording on the
front of the clear space panel. Too much cleaner or rubbing and you will take the paint right off.
When you go to snap the front and back parts of the head together, you will notice that you will have
to put one side on before you push them together. I miss this sometimes and get the 2 screws back
in and notice the pieces are not together correctly. Have to take the screws back out and work the
pieces into proper position.
Jim
ke7joi wrote:gentlemen
does an HCN1033D control head work with a spectra?
Re: system 9000 control head question
Hmmmm I haven't played with those radios in ages but it seems to me I tried that and a 1033 wouldn't work.
Jason
Jason
Re: system 9000 control head question
I made a typo on my last message. I meant to say Syntor X9000 radio.
You will have to reprogram the radio to probably get the head to work. No telling where it came from. All you
should have to do is read the radio, make sure you have the head set correctly in the program and just write it
back to the radio. It should put the correct info into the head without you doing anything. That is assuming
the radio was set up for that kind of head to begin with.
Jim
You will have to reprogram the radio to probably get the head to work. No telling where it came from. All you
should have to do is read the radio, make sure you have the head set correctly in the program and just write it
back to the radio. It should put the correct info into the head without you doing anything. That is assuming
the radio was set up for that kind of head to begin with.
Jim
KB9KST wrote:Hmmmm I haven't played with those radios in ages but it seems to me I tried that and a 1033 wouldn't work.
Jason