2013 F150 ign supply point?

[n5tbu]

I was not able to find a point to tap for Ign sense anywhere on this truck.
I don't want to tie in behind the music radio,any one solve this problem?
Mark

[mmckenna]

The radios in my truck (2011 crew cab) are behind the rear seat. I was looking for an ignition switched circuit back in that area to prevent more wire runs. I did some research and found there is a yellowish wire in the bundle that runs under the door sill. This is an ignition switched power for the power windows. I used this to control the Lund timer.

I might be off on the color code, but if you find a wiring diagram for the truck, it should tell you.

[n5tbu]

That's the thing tho...I don't wanna hack into the harness,I wanna go to the fuse panel like we did in the old days!
The fuses in the cab have no voltages (are they fusing grounds) and the panel under the hood are all hot all the time.
Maybe a spare connector under the dash with Ign available?

[mmckenna]

Might be. What these trucks have is a thing called "retained accessory power" which keeps the accessory power on when the key is out of the ignition but the doors haven't been opened yet. Tapping off the ignition switch probably won't be that easy.
What I did on an older GMC truck I had, that had the same "retained accessory power" system was to tap into an unused circuit. My truck was fairly basic, and didn't have a sun roof. I pulled the drivers side "A" pillar trim off and was able to find the lead that went to the sun roof. It was taped off in the harness. I connected my ignition switch lead to that. I inserted a 3 amp fuse in the "sun roof" position on the fuse panel and I was good to go.
So, I guess you could try searching for circuits in your truck that are there for accessories you don't have. Might take a bit more work.

[mmckenna]

Oh, and I understand your concerns about hacking the wiring harness. What I did was identify the correct wire using a straight pin and my multimeter. Once I was sure I had it, I used an Exacto knife to remove about an inch of insulation. I spread the strands apart and inserted my new wire there. I wrapped it around the original wire and followed up with a touch of solder. I wrapped it all back up with some tape and tucked it all back where it went. If I ever remove the radios, all I need to do is reheat the solder and pull my wire out. I'll wrap the wire in tape and put it all back in the harness.
Still, probably not what you want to do, but it's a bit better than actually cutting the wire and re-splicing it all.

[bgunn]

On the 2012 F150 and I believe it is the same on the 2013, Fuse #29 (20A)is hot all the time and fuse #38 (10A) is controlled by the "accessory delay relay". This fuse panel is located behind the passenger side kick panel. These are the mini ATM low profile fuses... If you want to tap the wires, circuit #38 leaves the fuse block on the connector directly to the right (towards the rear of the truck) and is a grey w/blue stripe. Circuit #29 leaves the fuse block on the connector directly above the first on a grey w/red strip. I have found this to be the case on trucks up to F450 so far.

[Jim202]

You can buy the blade uses with a tap wire coming out of them. Put the wire side on the hot side of the feed and you still have the fuse protecting the original circuit. When your through with the truck, pull your tap fuse out and put the original fuse back in. Don't understand what the issue is here.

There are a number of ignition controlled fuses in the panel inside the cab. Pick one and go for it.

The tap fuses come in different sizes, so your choice of which circuit to use is not limited. The tap fuses come in a package of 10.

I got mine from Tessco.

[tvsjr]

There aren't many sources for hot-in-run in the newer F150s. Ford has gone to constant power to most everything (including the stereo) with on/off control via CANBUS.

I put a TK780 in one a couple weeks ago. Couldn't find anything, so I just went straight to the ignition switch. It drives a relay that handles the radio.