Batboard

Hello from Brazil.

It's my first message...

I have a radio-shop in Sao Paulo and have one IFR-1600S to repair the radios

My 1600S was perfect, always passed through the self test.

I had worked fine with my 1600S this afternoon, I shut it down and when power it up again it is only make the first beep.

It's make the first beep continuously and do not start, the screen is dark and green, the buttons do not work.

I will open it tomorrow to try to find the problem

I appreciate any help, or idea to start to find the problem.

The first thing I'd check is if the CPU is possible a bit loose in the CPU socket. Pull the CPU board (third board back on the digital side) and ***gently*** press down on the CPU.
Next I'd check the flash board is seated correctly.

Hi Wowbagger

I tried to do what you said.... but without success

I checked all boards, cleaned some contacts but it's do not want to start.

I sent it to autorized service...

Thanks for for the tips

Hello

I sent my unit to Aeroflex for budget

After two months they condemned my processor board. They asked $3500 to fix it (change the board).

I have a small radio shop, I can't pay too much to fix it, with this money I can buy another one on ebay and stay with spare parts!

I'm thinking in try to fix it... this board is already bad!

Some one have a idea where to start?

To start will try to find a new processor and a new socket...

This link is for the pictures of my unit (when was working) and the boards: http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w210 ... %20Boards/

Thanks in advance for all of this forum

Dear PY2YVO ,

Back from long time post...

I have here 2 IFR1600S, one is working 100% fine and the other one makes exactly like yours, 1 repeated bip on startup.
I swaped the 2 processors and got no changes, it's allways beeping.

I'm curious if you have found the trouble since you've ask for help?

Thank's Eric

replace the caps on the power supply filter board.

1. pull power supply ....two screws on side , two captive by the connectors , remove power supply connectors.
you may have to remove the CRT connector and fuse holders to get the clearance for it to pull out.
2. remove the screws around the bottom perimeter and one the top sides so the bottom comes off. one of the screws on the side id for the 12V regulator heatsink and two hold the filter card.
3. remove filter card ...disconnect the two cables along the way.

4. inspect for damage from cap leakage...replace caps ...should be 8 1000uf 16v and 12 470uf 35v IIRC

There may be some variation there ...some versions used 330 uf and 1500uf caps.
Later versions ( like 1900's and newer TS-4317's ) used fewer caps
Once the old caps are removed clean the PCB before replacing ...old ones were held in with Silicon RTV ...I usually do the same

Jry,
Thanks for your help, the trouble was created by a non well locked uP, one of the four latch was opened.
I've cleaned the uP socket reseated and relock in place and it's working now.

For the power supply, I'm in process to replace the elctrolytics capacitors, the board I have contain 8X 1000uF/10V and 10X 330uF/25V
I'm not sure if I saw a pdf file with all the Mouser or Digi-Key parts number, a list made by a member of this group?

Thanks
Eric