Batboard

I have a MTR2000 with an intermittant power supply. It will boot up good and in a little while the green light will be off and the repeater is dead. Do you know what the problem might be? At your shop, do you order a new supply or return repeater to depot for repair?

You can't fix that supply. If you have the ability to run it from external DC, try that. If it stays running you can either order a new stock supply, or run it from external DC for the rest of its life. I'm not sure you want to ship the entire unit back to the depot but it's your choice.

The supply I had could be opened. I could get to the main pcb, but all the heat-sinked parts were under the board, and they seem to have been screwed/clamped and cemented to the heat sink. Getting the board out would have meant destruction. Most of the supply deals with generating the primary voltage (14 or 28) from 90-260VAC; a small part provides regulators for 14V and 5V and activates them in the proper sequence.

There's another thread about dead MTR2000 power supplies; worth reading.

Bob M.

http://batboard.batlabs.com/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=99226 is the aforementioned thread.

I wonder if someone would be willing to take a DESTROYED power supply and break the board off the components to figure out exactly WTF is going on for the rest of us, as far as the "cemented" components are concerned.

I have two of these stations and (knock on wood) they both work fine, but I'm dreading a power supply failure - I'm not one to run things on DC if I don't have to.

Would sure like to see some pics of the inside of the thing. I can't justify disassembling mine.

I suppose no one but ME can actually see my avatar. . . and knows to look over there.

The supply can be opened right up, if you don't mind breaking the seal across the two halves of the casting. Remove the six flat-head screws that hold it to the card cage. Unplug the connectors. The DC IN wires and connectors stay attached to the supply. Remove the fan (four screws), then remove the eight screws around the perimeter of the supply between the heat sink fins. I believe they're all T-20. The casting half that has the DC connectors on it (non-finned piece) will just come off.

Bob M.

kcbooboo wrote:I suppose no one but ME can actually see my avatar. . . and knows to look over there.

The supply can be opened right up, if you don't mind breaking the seal across the two halves of the casting. Remove the six flat-head screws that hold it to the card cage. Unplug the connectors. The DC IN wires and connectors stay attached to the supply. Remove the fan (four screws), then remove the eight screws around the perimeter of the supply between the heat sink fins. I believe they're all T-20. The casting half that has the DC connectors on it (non-finned piece) will just come off.

Bob M.

I beg your forgiveness for not looking on repeater-builder for the photos.

OK. Now that I've seen them, things make more sense. I wonder if a call to ABB would produce any results?

They probably made stuff under contract and won't talk to anyone but the contractee. Besides, ABB is a BIG company and the chances of getting someone who actually knows about the product is highly unlikely.

Bob M.