Batboard

Looking for suggestions on where to mount a few decks, two high power and one mid power.

I'd like to mount them behind the rear seats on the back wall, but haven't taken apart to see if there are ribs or infrastructure to tap into, without of course going through outer body sheet metal.

Other option is under rear seat bottoms.

Any other ideas? If it weren't for the darn vent for floor heat under the front driver and passenger seats, I'd be able to fit them there.

Thanks

Also any best practices for Mounting brackets to floor (if it comes to that) Lessons learned,etc.

W1HVN wrote:I'd like to mount them behind the rear seats on the back wall, but haven't taken apart to see if there are ribs or infrastructure to tap into, without of course going through outer body sheet metal.

I don't do Chebbies, but the back panel is most likely corrugated, so you can't attach anything directly to it.

Other option is under rear seat bottoms.

Make sure to build something to protect the decks and wiring from errant feet.

Any other ideas? If it weren't for the darn vent for floor heat under the front driver and passenger seats, I'd be able to fit them there.

Take the ductwork out and cap it off. I did this on several Expeditions/F150s.

Also any best practices for Mounting brackets to floor (if it comes to that) Lessons learned,etc.

Don't. Build a false floor from plywood (can incorporate a vertical lip all the way around to protect from errant feet... see above). Mount that to whatever you want - ideally something like seat bracketry. Then attach the decks to the wood. Much more versatile, especially when you want to change things.

Good advice, I'm looking at a GM OEM underseat storage box after your idea. They bolt with brackets to seat hardware, rather than aftermarket which have straps.

I can use plywood on bottom of the box in the left and right larger areas, screw and adhesive to the brackets. Then I can screw the mounting brackets to the plywood base. Maybe even install a couple fans in the sides (maybe overkill). this will take care of the kicking feet!

Thanks for the ideas, got my wheels turning..

I will keep the thread posted as I continue this project...

Have some cabling to clean up and secure, other than that this is the install so far. Worked out well I think....


Seats in down position: please excuse the dog hair. Black interior and yellow labs don't mix.
Going to add a couple cooling fans relayed to a temp sensor built into front of enclosure to move some air in spring.

That GM underseat box looks perfect for the application. Do I spy a familiar Havis "airbag warning" stickered console up front?

Looks great! Installed mine the same way except I put my Astro High Power in the center and 2 low powers on the drivers side. How did you run your power wires? Right now i'm trying to be a hole free as possible. I'm using the wire passthrough on the drivers door and then up to the underhood fuse box. Trying to see how the experienced guys do it. I have a 2011 Chevy 1500 crew cab.

Thanks. I may move the high power deck to the center if you did and it fits. I have one more mid power to squeeze in there. The VRS is gonna get moved elsewhere.

As for power, ive got a 4 ga coming from battery through hole drilled with grommet through firewall driver side, to console where I go to power dist block. Also have a ign sense line coning back from fuse box to dis panel. Ive gor A+ and B+ power from the dist center. Radio power comes up passenger side into front of console to dist block. Micom goes straight to battery bypassing 4ga power dist. This is for HF efficiency.

All works well. Have some accessory map lights and cig plugs as well as a pair of drop in chargers in console running off switched power. Remote heads. Remote cables come up drivers side to front console entrance.

Anyway the GM underseat is a life saver and great install tool for Chevy rigs.

I dont run lights however a cencom or Wecan/ Cantrol brain would install well in the storage box if needed.

Is that an adapter I see plugged into that mid-power XTL deck? Put the right connector on the coax!

Start with a plywood backer. Mount all the radio equipment to the backer. On the backer mount a power distribution block. Run the power cable to the block from each radio. Mount a second power distribution block. This one will go to switched power for the ignition sense leads to each radio. Then layout the control head cables, properly labeled of course, and bundle them in split loom. Run a single large gauge power wire to the battery, and a medium gauge power cable to a switched power source from the mounting location. Securely bolt the backer to the rear cab wall.

Lot of work now BUT come time to move the radios to a new vehicle most of the work is done. Bolt in the backer. Run the two power cables, run the control head bundle to the console, install the antennas and ground everything. You just turned an all day job into a two or three hour job.

Please post a couple of pics when it's complete, as I'm sure it will look great.

jhooten wrote:Start with a plywood backer. Mount all the radio equipment to the backer. On the backer mount a power distribution block. Run the power cable to the block from each radio. Mount a second power distribution block. This one will go to switched power for the ignition sense leads to each radio. Then layout the control head cables, properly labeled of course, and bundle them in split loom. Run a single large gauge power wire to the battery, and a medium gauge power cable to a switched power source from the mounting location. Securely bolt the backer to the rear cab wall.

Lot of work now BUT come time to move the radios to a new vehicle most of the work is done. Bolt in the backer. Run the two power cables, run the control head bundle to the console, install the antennas and ground everything. You just turned an all day job into a two or three hour job.

Federal installs are done the same way, and for the same reason. I highly recommend using this method, if for no other reason than it's easier to locate and mount equipment to a sheet of plywood than straight to the back wall of a truck cab (or the floor of a trunk, for that matter.) Dark gray auto primer spray paint is a good match for most vehicle and trunk interiors, if you want to pretty it up a little.