Batboard

Here is a question for all our strobe experts... I have to drop two hideaways bulbs in a taillight assembly.
It has a nice, tight reflector and currently has no bulbs in it. It will be mounted through the trunkso weatherproofing isn't an issue and the place is big enough with enough room for heat dissipation (lights really wont be on longer than 30 min at a time max anyway)...

My question pertains to powersettings on two Whelen packs I have to power these two hideaway bulbs...
One is a cs240 2outlet 40w supply. The other is a cs650, 6outlet 50w.
I am wondering if the cs650 is an unregulated p/s, such that when you switch on all 6 outlets, with only 2 bulbs connected will it deliver all of its juice from 6 outlets to the 2 bulbs?

Any thoughts or comments? I realize that putting more juice on a bulb will decrease its lifespan and push heat a bit...just wondering if anyone has any experience with this. THANKS!

I have done it with the whelen 90w six outlet and just put 2 on it and I never had a problem..... I put then into a crown vic reverse lights and thats a tight space.... If that helps.........

most modern whelen packs will not push more than 20 or 22 watts PEAK into a strobe tube. The packs will step down the wattage incrementally into the heads, as more of the strobe heads are turned on, or connected in your case...
i believe most of the modern sets will push about 20 watts / head for one pair, 17-19 watts / head for 2 , and 15-17 watts / head for 3 pair...and, FYI, most of the hideaway heads floating around out there are what...capable of 25 watts? you'll be safe...we've run 6 or 8 head packs in cars for YEARS with 2 hideaways (some moron thought it would bea good idea) and they didn't appreciably shorten the lifespan.

Great, thanks!
Anyone know if the cs650 will allow pushing 50w (since it afterall is a newer p/s)? Or any suggestions on other powersupplies that will let me use 50+ Watts onto 2 heads?

The newer will step down the joules / watts when some heads are missing, but one of the packs I know, the UPS640, will keep it coming when you take off one or two of the heads, note this is the older models. I have one I'm running with only two helix tubes for rear backup's and its bright bright.

Also on a note, the normal / cheapo, tubes cannot take this extreme for any period of time, so I made sure to upgrade to the aviation grade of helix tube, so as to use them for a long time and expect some life between changes. These are rated at 45-60 watts, or around 10-28 joules a piece, where the econo package lights can and will only take 5- maybe 15 joules with some life left over. I have cooked a couple of econo tubes that came in these packages when I placed them on a UPS188 power supply. They were never meant to be used with this much power.

Depending on the size, NOTE NOTE, I like running linear tubes in the assemblies instead of the helix because you can line them up in the scope of the reflector of the light when they flash. This helps in giving more light to the vehicle while not having to cut everything to hell trying to mount a reflector assembly.

*********I have only done this with much thought to the end user because of the potencey this project creates when the strobes light, the normal projection ends up in the HIGH beam pattern and BLIND most everything infront of the vehicle. *********

CPS=Competitor power supply they have less fetures and regulation to make them a litte cheap

UPS=universal power supply

coost more better house fixable and 2x2 switching and are all around bettter

u are better off with a ups64LXA

I was talking to him earlier...and here is something to consider for the rest of ya...

Wattage to the tube is wattage divided by number of flashes. The more outlets you have activated, will reduce it a bit. But this is also power supply dependant, and not universal. Some p/s have one capacitor per 2/4/8 outlets. Also, the flash pattern will have an effect. Comet flash for whelen is one full power flash followed by 3 lesser, but equal, flashes. On the Whelen site, they break it down per their power supply the actual amount of energy getting to the bulb.

Also, some of their supplies will adjust to different flash tubes and age, such as their ISP line.

In term of hide-a-ways (whelen) the flange mount strobes will handle more power (and last longer) than the plug in's. For most applications, either will be just fine.

Thanks to all, you have been very helpful! I will keep you abreast of the final product!

i used the soft plug ins once whel they first came out never again. they are harder to install and dont seal very well

I'm ignorant. Where do you purchase linear strobe tubes from?

Normally straight from a whelen dealer, but alot of end user catalogs like Galls or AW Direct have them listed in a replacement tube / bulb picture so you can order by looking at what you want. Around 35.00 for the 9E or turbo64 or turbo9, 6 3/4" long and 28.00 or so, for the turbo5, 4 3/4" long tubes.

Go to http://www.whelen.com and the go to the lit section. You will find the blub/lamp guide in there, or the install section. In a couple of their lines, the lamp styles did change over the years (the 9600 series lightbars come to mind). Over the past couple of years, that have worked on streamlining all their light products to use a common style.

Best bet, call up Whelen tech, tell them what you have and about when you bought it and they will give you a part number. Then call galls or your local rep. Galls seem to charge pretty close to list price so I would go local.

Maybe I'm missing something here but how the hell are you mounting linear strobes in an existing light housing????

Well, let me get out the digital and I'll show you. Kinda like mounting an HID bulb were they normally don't go.




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