Batboard

just thought i'd throw some pics of my 2004 dodge ram up here in case anyone was interested in some install pics. still alot left to do.

200 amp circuit breaker near battery tray:


this is the cable that will go from the battery to the breaker:


this is the 1/0 cable going through a grommet in the firewall:


here's the cable entering under the dash:


this is the main power distribution inside the center console.
constant duty solenoid will handle the accessory-switched power:


two accessory fuse panels. one constant, and one ignition-switched:


another view of the fuse panels and a partial shot of the touchtek relays:


passenger side view of the console, cup holders, and relay housing:


the touchtek switch panel:


lastly (for now), 100-watt speaker behind the grill on the driver's side:

:::edit:::

yep its up and working

thanks, i edited the first post with the rest of the pics. that's all the pics i have for now. sorry if some of the wiring/connections seem a little "stereo-sexy". and yeah i know the wiring is just a tad overkill, but what can i say...

some of the hardware that's going in is a pair of CDM-1250's, (uhf and vhf), a uniden 796D scanner, smartsiren, and probably a ham of some kind since my buddy is pressuring me to get my 'ticket'. that'll be something like a kenwood D700.

Ok, forgive me if i am legally blind, but is that GROUNDING STRAP being used for the B+? (tell me that's insulated)

[glasses hunting]

Looks like a clear coating.
You can see the printing on the coating here:

grounding strap? holy smokes no!!!. that's streetwires brand 1/0 gauge power cable with clear insulation. that's one of the stereo-sexy things i used, but it'll eventually be covered with some split-loom anyway. since we got that pic singled out, check the snug fit on that grommet. you can spray that with a garden hose and it'll never leak. i had to wd-40 the cable to slide it through.

eboe wrote:i had to wd-40 the cable to slide it through.

I presume there was no compatibility issues with the WD-40 solvent and the cable insulation?

Beyond that, very nice installation! I like the stereo-sexy aspect.

the wd-40 didn't appear to have any affect on the insulation, but it wasn't on long anyway. i had a wet rag handy and wiped it off as i was pulling it through. i figure it's an automotive grade insulation so it's gotta have some kind of resistance to oil/grease or whatnot. and thanks for the compliment. i couldn't resist the urge to tease myself with a glimpse of the finished product, so i just dropped the radios and stuff in and snapped another pic.

two cdm1250's and the smartsiren ss2000ss control head:

Who makes that console you used? Looks good, congrats on the install. Radio Kid

Finally, someone besides jim, FFParamedic, myself, and maybe one or two others gets it! This is the way an installation SHOULD be done. "Relocate" the battery with a heavy power feed, solder connections and use shrink tube, follow SAE practices. No running separate power feeds for each device to the battery, etc.

Nice job

that's the front section of a galls 3-piece console. (did he say galls? ewww) LOL

here's a pic from galls' site if it works...


it is not designed to be used as a standalone console therefore i had to modify it alot, but it was kinda fun. for example, the section where i mounted my touchtek switch-panel wasn't even there. that area is open because normally the center section buts up against it. it didn't have holes for grommets so i had to drill them out, etc...

commtek, i do all my wiring like that. doesn't everybody? the large gauge ring terminals are first crimped on with one of those hit-it-with-a-hammer-crimper-thingies. then i put a torch to the ring terminal to get it hot enough to suck some solder in there until it's full. then i heat shrink it all up. smaller gauge wires (10ga and up) just get the normal crimp-pliers treatment unless they're outside the cockpit then they'll get some heat-shrink tubing too.

auxiliary fuse panels are the only way to fly!

Want a job?

I will say it looks good too.. 200a breaker seems like alot of over kill for 2 CDMs and a smart siren. I guess if you upgrade its there if you need it.

FFParamedic571 wrote:I will say it looks good too.. 200a breaker seems like alot of over kill for 2 CDMs and a smart siren. I guess if you upgrade its there if you need it.

Sort of is... of course, it depends on the number of lights he's running, 100- or 200-watt siren, etc.
Latest measurements on my truck indicated about 107A running full-out code 3 with a high-power Spectra keyed:
Standby RX current - ~9A
2 6-outlet strobe packs - ~26A
TX section of high-power Spectra - ~25A
Siren (200-watt to 2 speakers) - ~20A
Other emergency lighting - ~30A

As you can see, it adds up quickly.

I'm running a 150A breaker up front with a red-top Optima battery (using top posts for factory wiring, front posts for my stuff) and 1/0ga. wire back to the power distribution panels.

thanks cam, i can't read that S***. too blind. very nice install. i used a 60amp for the aux panel in my explorer and did the same type install, and i have to admit, i want to KICK every other installer who runs separate wires for each piece from here on out....makes the B+ term look like a spaghetti factory blew up.