Ok, since this will probably lead to a nice sharing of pictures, here is what i just got done on my van. Always installing others gear, finally got mine done in between family and work.
Well, i guess i can't say its totally done... I still need to finish up bundling the control cables and coax to the radios mounted to the floor under the second row seating. I will get that done and some pictures of it once my VHF drawer gets back from Blue Feather Tech RF Services.
The console is an ex-chp unit from eBay. The mounting plates were all fabricated by a local metal shop, got them all done for less than half the cost of just one from any of the usual manufacturers. It's hard to tell in the picture but the heads are actually tilted up at an angle to help with daytime viewing.
There is also an accessory power jack on the front right side of the console which will be used later for a laptop mount, right now its nice for plugging in work lights and cell phone chargers, etc.
I didn't like having the mic cords going through the side of the console from the control heads so i made a panel with mic jacks and put new, longer, and more flexible shielded mic cords on the two DTMF mics i had. The switches are simply there to control the radios, up is constant on, middle is off, and down is ignition controlled. This was done because the install will be including a smart charger for the vehicle battery, so if i had it parked at field day or hamfest for the talk-in radio or in an emergency situation where AC power from a generator or other source was available i could use the smart charger and shut the engine off and use the radios without having the key on. This is also a benefit to my wife who likes to have the radios off most of the time, that is until i get her convinced to get a ham license!
For right now there is a VHF X9000, UHF X9000, and a Genesis series charger. The Pac-RT switch in this unit will be used in the near future, i plan on using it for turning on and off a crossband repeat using the X9000's, still working the bugs out of the interface between the two radios. If anyone has done this before let me know by email how you got it all working.
The split loom tubing is covering the main 4 gauge power lead to the internal fuse panel. This power lead is protected at the battery with a 80a circuit breaker, purchased from Waytek.
The first blank panel on the console is going to have some 1/4 turn fasteners for quick removal to access the fuse panel and breakers inside, just haven't got that far yet.
The other wires in that tubing are a chassis ground to the frame of the vehicle which then grounds the console and also provides a solid ground to all the equipment, and a ignition switched source of power which goes to the switches. The switches by the way do not power the control head ignition sense wiring directly, there is two relays which are switched on and off by the switches.
The reason i do this is i do not like drawing any more power than necessary from the vehicles fuse panel and the ignition switched power sources in the average vehicle sometimes have noise issues so i like to use relays to isolate the ignition sense. The only thing coming from the existing vehicle wiring is one 3amp fused lead to power the relay coils through the switches when the ignition is on. The feed for the relays is fused separately at the console fuse panel, one 3amp fuse for the VHF and another for the UHF. I only use the green lead on the head, the orange lead is disabled by setting to uninhibited in the RSS and is not hooked up. The battery side of the select switches is also fused at the fuse panel of course. The other benefit is that i have relays installed with a 30amp capacity if i ever need to add further equipment. Upgradability is always factored in, and i overbuild everything.
I'm thinking about putting the orange wires from the heads to a hidden switch or relay somewhere on the console so that i can inhibit TX when necessary at the flip of a switch, mainly because of my two young boys and their roaming fingers.
The radios main power leads are powered by 40a circuit breakers in the console, purchased from Waytek.
Last but not least, the antennas. (Sorry about the picture, they are a little hard to see) A 5/8 wave VHF Larsen NMO150C, and a 3.4db UHF Larsen NMO440C. More than adequate for coverage in my area. The antennas are of course on through hole NMO mounts. A tip, on the Caravan you can just pull down the dome lights and install the antenna mounts. With the light pulled down you have a good 4in or larger square opening to the roof, but be careful, the backside of the dome light is not insulated, just plastic standoff feet to keep it from touching the roof. I just put some liquid electricians tape over them to prevent any shorts while working on the antenna mount.
The coax is just snaked down the pillars to the radios. The UHF coax goes down the rear drivers side corner behind the trim and the VHF goes down just behind the drivers side door.
My main goal was to keep it simple, organized, and family friendly. Perhaps a DVD player for the kids with a swing down monitor would be a nice addition down the road.
What you think?
