Here is my problem, I recently installed my CDM, hooked up the B+ direct to the battery, pin 10 to an ignition switched +. programmed the radio to "on/off&ignition" Now my problem: the radio powers on with the car no problem, and functions as it should. HOWEVER it will not shut off without pushing the switch manually everytime. I know there is a normally a delay, that is not what I am seeing. There is NO voltage on pin 10 when the vehicle is off.
Anyone else seen this? any ideas?
and in case it matters this is installed with a remote mount kit, radio was manufactured in 2001 and has original firmware, not sure of the version.
CDM1550 not shutting off with ignition sense in place?
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Though I haven't heard of the problem specifically, I'd definitely get the firmware upgraded to the latest at a dealer & see if that solves the problem. You could also try it on a bench power supply to see if it acts any differently.
Todd
Todd
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basically repeating what Nand said, I would also try disconnection the ignition sense cable and see the result.
reason being, 3 or 4 times in the past I have had radios come on, go off, cycle power on and off, and do freaky things because of where I was getting my IGN sense. Depending on the vehicle make, year, yadda yadda yadda the computers are setup weird and do some freaky things to aftermarket added accy's...
I even had a whelen hands free siren that would activate and cycle tones at the wierdest times when the vehicle was on or off. With a VM I was reading 5v then 0v, at different occasions. Customer called the first time he had to run outside at 3am to shut it off...(which I never understood why he would actually leave the siren energized when not in use)..
In every case I just used a relay, that way it was 12v or nothing...
reason being, 3 or 4 times in the past I have had radios come on, go off, cycle power on and off, and do freaky things because of where I was getting my IGN sense. Depending on the vehicle make, year, yadda yadda yadda the computers are setup weird and do some freaky things to aftermarket added accy's...
I even had a whelen hands free siren that would activate and cycle tones at the wierdest times when the vehicle was on or off. With a VM I was reading 5v then 0v, at different occasions. Customer called the first time he had to run outside at 3am to shut it off...(which I never understood why he would actually leave the siren energized when not in use)..
In every case I just used a relay, that way it was 12v or nothing...
Nick Kuhn - Communications Technician/Technical Manager
AMP Electronics - Chillicothe, OH
http://www.amp-electronics.net
AMP Electronics - Chillicothe, OH
http://www.amp-electronics.net
Install a relay on pin 10.
On certain cars' electrical system, you can run into this. A classic scenario is where the heater blower is on high. You turn off the key and the blower (or even the engine fan motor) winds down and acts as a generator and keeps the radio up.
Solution:
Make sure radio B+ lead is to a solid B+ supply. Ground the B- lead to a CLEAN ground. A TEK screw in the floor pan or A-post is NOT a good ground.
Get yourself a Bosch relay.
Connect as follows:
Pin 85- ground
Pin 86- to a switched ignition source
Pin 30- to the radio's B+ lead at the radio
Pin 87- through a 1A fuse to the Waris' pin 10.
this will eliminate any "funny" voltages on pin 10.
On certain cars' electrical system, you can run into this. A classic scenario is where the heater blower is on high. You turn off the key and the blower (or even the engine fan motor) winds down and acts as a generator and keeps the radio up.
Solution:
Make sure radio B+ lead is to a solid B+ supply. Ground the B- lead to a CLEAN ground. A TEK screw in the floor pan or A-post is NOT a good ground.
Get yourself a Bosch relay.
Connect as follows:
Pin 85- ground
Pin 86- to a switched ignition source
Pin 30- to the radio's B+ lead at the radio
Pin 87- through a 1A fuse to the Waris' pin 10.
this will eliminate any "funny" voltages on pin 10.
I personally try to always go to where one of the ground leads that comes directly off the battery goes to either the fender or the engine block. That way I *KNOW* I have a good ground.jim wrote:
Make sure radio B+ lead is to a solid B+ supply. Ground the B- lead to a CLEAN ground. A TEK screw in the floor pan or A-post is NOT a good ground.
Another good option if you're not going directly into the engine compartment for your ground (such as a remote mount radio) is one of the bolts that holds the seats to the body of the car. It needs to be the bolt that goes through the floor pan NOT something that moves if the rear seats fold down (seen it! and the guy wondered why the radio never seemed to have any range on TX. Wiggle the back seat and the 2 way radio and scanner would power on and off randomly). If you're in the trunk there's usually a couple of bolts in there that you can loosen up and put a lug on to ground the radio. Again, just make sure you use a star washer.
I've seen tech screws loosen up over the years pretty much no matter where you put them in. You could nut and bolt it as well, but make sure to use a lock washer and a star washer to make sure it doesn't loosen up and actually digs through the paint into the body.
Kurt
I am <I>NOT</I> Hamsexy