Hello,
I have completed the module swap on my saber, the next step, I'm assuming, is to get a codeplug and realign the radio?
To realign the radio, do I need any other equipment than RSS? Do I need the moto RIB and cables? Frequency counter? Can I create a new codeplug?
I looked for a MSS in northen NJ, but could not find one that works on Sabers, they all ship to mother M. for the flat rate (not any more now).
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Orlando
Converting Saber from gov. split to ham split on UHF
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Orlando, you will need to create a new codeplug for the proper band split you intend to use it in, then run the service alignment to make certain all the levels are set properly as well as DTMF, secure, PL/DPL and transmit audio are all within spec.
Once you create the new CP, enter your frequencies, and then program them using F6(radio values).
After the radio is programmed, you can return to the service menu and perform a proper realignment from the programmed settings of before.
At least this way, you'll be in the ballpark for adjustments, the rest will come together fairly rapidly I'm betting.
Just a note....do NOT forget to set the power bias when setting RF output levels, and NEVER program to max.
I keep mine set on 70-73 at the highest, with a 'high' power bias for the used channels, and then adjust the power bias for T/A channels usign the low power bias and low output setting as well.
Great for hamfests, great on battery life as well.
You can also drop the low battery below the factory 9E setting, it's too high and will show a depleted battery long before you need to recharge.
I set mine to under '10', and get full use of the batteries without killing them either.
Just a little friendly help is all...........Good luck on your project!
Once you create the new CP, enter your frequencies, and then program them using F6(radio values).
After the radio is programmed, you can return to the service menu and perform a proper realignment from the programmed settings of before.
At least this way, you'll be in the ballpark for adjustments, the rest will come together fairly rapidly I'm betting.
Just a note....do NOT forget to set the power bias when setting RF output levels, and NEVER program to max.
I keep mine set on 70-73 at the highest, with a 'high' power bias for the used channels, and then adjust the power bias for T/A channels usign the low power bias and low output setting as well.
Great for hamfests, great on battery life as well.
You can also drop the low battery below the factory 9E setting, it's too high and will show a depleted battery long before you need to recharge.
I set mine to under '10', and get full use of the batteries without killing them either.
Just a little friendly help is all...........Good luck on your project!