Page 1 of 1
Jedi Speaker Mic connector, taking apart
Posted: Wed Jun 19, 2002 6:49 pm
by Nickdap
Hi all,
Woundering if someone could explain to me how to take apart the speaker mic connectors for re-wiring. Wanted to check before I broke it.
Thanks
Nick
Posted: Wed Jun 19, 2002 7:13 pm
by OX
I haven't figured out how to disassemble the actual speaker/mic, but there is a rubber boot at the base of the spkr/mic that when slid away from the mic, yields a 8-pin Rj style jack that can be unplugged.
If you're asking about the side connector for the radio, you use a small screwdriver and pop the rubber and cover out of the connector. The pins are solered to a PCB inside of the cover so if you're careful you won't mess it up.
Posted: Wed Jun 19, 2002 7:33 pm
by Nickdap
Yes the mic it self seems to be a sealed unit.
But yes at the moment I am working on the connector, when i jimmy it up it feels like there is somthing under the rubber that the screw driver is catching on, is that the pcb? or should i just lift up the rubber, and then work on taking out the pcb.
Thanks for you help
nick
Posted: Wed Jun 19, 2002 7:41 pm
by Nickdap
hey i got it now, it was the plastic cover the rubber is rapped around. next thing is getting the pcb out. i would imagine you have to unscrew the survellance ear piece jack as it is soldered to the board.
nick
Posted: Wed Jun 19, 2002 11:45 pm
by Will
Yes you need to unscrew the nut holding the 3.5 mm threaded jack and the jack IS mounted on the circuit board as is the plunger pins.
HT1000 Connector
Posted: Thu Jun 20, 2002 7:22 pm
by Monty
Hi:
Here is a exploded view of the 2 plasitc tabs that
hold the PC board in place. What I do, is use a small
knife, ( X100 is ideal ) and press against the wall, and
the tabs.
Use care not to damage the rubber boot, or the
plastic holder, if you lift up carfully, you should
see the plastic plate move pretty easy
[ IF ] your connector has the [ options jack ] you
will carfully have to remove the locking nut as
well, and its a bit of a pain to reinstall due to the
rubber weather plug...Not really needed, but
looks professional if kept stock
If you are making a program cable, I would strongly
urge you to use the metal Cable Clamp, and that can
been opened with a correct size phillips screw driver.
Hope the image helps
Monty
Posted: Sat Jun 22, 2002 7:53 pm
by Nickdap
thanks guys. Yes Monty I am making a programming cable. What do you mean by the metal cable clamp? I had a look at the PCB and thought to my self I could just re-mount the pins in the right holes and make use of the pcb tracks alread running to the programming pin holes. Then I thought it would be easier, and with out any obvious sacrifice in quality to run the wires directly to the solder side of the pins, except for the GND pins which works how it is now. The cable restrictor clamp device should prevent any yanking on the cable from dislodging the solder joints. I'm also considering removing the unused pins for two reasons, so they no longer come in contact with the radio and just so I can have some spare pins around in the parts rack.
Of course any of your wisdom is much appreciated.
Posted: Sun Jun 23, 2002 4:24 am
by Metradio
Exactly what I did Nick, the only extra things I did were.. Araldite the used wires to the back of the PCB after soldering, and put some Araldite in the unused 3.5mm socket, so that nobody else could try and put audio into the socket..
Posted: Tue Jun 25, 2002 2:13 am
by Nickdap
Thanks Monty and Metradio, Yes good idea about the glue. Anyway did some work on it today and well supprise supprise I stuffed it up! I'll give it to a ham friend who can fix it up for me. I'm not very steady with the soldering iron.
Thanks all for the help.
Nick