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Anyone have any info on the availiable options, factory connection points, etc. on my '99 P71? I'd like to start installing a few things but would like to be more informed before I start. I've only found info on the newer models, so i'm sure it doesn't apply.

How about a few pointers from the seasoned vets that have done many CVPIs in the past? I'm obviously going to need big power in the trunk, as well as a clear path for control cables to the front. How about any good info on some under the dash stuff that i'm not likely to know?

I'm probably putting a couple of HP Spectras in there, along with some other misc. electronics. Any pre-existing feeds in place I can use? How about good spots to run the control head grn/org wires? I am putting in a siren/pa unit too...is the horn tap easily accessed?

I could figure this all out myself, but why not seek the advice of the people who've done this more times than I ever will? I will be happy to show it off at Dayton when it's done.

Don't drill into the deck in the trunk around the spare tire. The gas tank is directly beneath there, and you WILL go into it. If you want to put anything back there, you're going to need an equipment shelf. The big three console makers (Gamber, Jotto, Havis) all have them. Or you can do it CHP-style and relocate the tire and build a wooden deck the length of the trunk to mount radios, sirens, and stuff to.

All your power wiring is going to be done on the passenger side. Underneath the dash, there are two 10 ga. wires terminating into molded plugs that may or may not have a 6-slot fuseholder plugged into them. The red-striped wire with the red plug is constant hot and the green-striped wire with the blue plug is switched with ignition. Both are good for about 40A max. Also, down towards the bottom of the A pillar is a bank of factory chassis grounds you can tie into. If you need 4 ga. to either the trunk or passenger compartment, this can be run through a factory wiring grommet in the firewall. Just make sure you don't strip or cut the factory wiring when you're pokin' a hole.

These cars come from the factory with ALL power going to the battery except for the starter motor run through a pair of fusible links that are probably going to be quite baked and brittle. Do yourself a HUGE favor and cut it out, and replace it with a 250A ANL fuse. The factory ground from the battery to the frame is also pretty wimpy, and you'd do well to replace it with 4 ga. In fact, don't even think about running 110W radios without doing the above two steps. You may also notice that your lights don't dim anymore when you roll the windows down.

Awesome. Exactly the kind of advice i'm looking for. Thank you.

Any idea where to reconnect power for the rear windows? I saw reference to a disconnected plug under the trim at the lower B-pillar but can't find anything. Maybe it's there on later models but just not my '99.

You can also try the CVPI Wackers are http://www.crownvic.net or.us or something like that. There are some pretty good people there.

Any idea where to reconnect power for the rear windows? I saw reference to a disconnected plug under the trim at the lower B-pillar but can't find anything. Maybe it's there on later models but just not my '99.

It should be in the door pannel. It comes apart easy. As for going out the firewall, passenger side. If it was an ex police car like my 99' it should have a hole in the factory gromet. BE VERY CAREFUL IN THE TRUNK!!! You will hit the gas tank. You can drill about 10" from the shelf, that'll miss the tank. On the cars we did before the pull out trays we would screw a peace of plywood down to mount to. This will give you about 15" X 12" of mounting space with the spair tire. You can mount plywood to the back wall behind the back seats in the trunk. Watch out for the factory cable that it there. As for power, I really sujest running everything up front. I do not like having power points in the trunk. I have some of my power points in my Troy console.

Fell free to PM me, I've done many Crown Vics. They are so easy to work on.

I would not use the " factory " wire grommet in the passenger side kick panel. It is too easy to damage the wires and they leak. The way to do it is to drill a minimum 1.125 hole with a hole saw just to the left of that grommet and use a snap bushing or rubber grommet run your battery leads though there and what ever else you want to run under the hood. Then use a good silicone to water proof the hole. The factory battery and ignition drops in the kick panel are good for accessories. Dont try to run a lightbar off them.

The horn ring is a dirty blue 18g in the plug under the steering column. DO NOT drill anything in the trunk under the back deck near the gas tank. Ive seen sheet metal screws as short as 1" puncture the top of the gas tank.. That is a problem you dont want and isnt cheap. Also in 1999 the door locks wer disabled by removing the rods for the locks in the door. At one time we had a box of them in the shop..

FireCpt809 wrote:I would not use the " factory " wire grommet in the passenger side kick panel. It is too easy to damage the wires and they leak. The way to do it is to drill a minimum 1.125 hole with a hole saw just to the left of that grommet and use a snap bushing or rubber grommet run your battery leads though there and what ever else you want to run under the hood. Then use a good silicone to water proof the hole. The factory battery and ignition drops in the kick panel are good for accessories. Dont try to run a lightbar off them.

The horn ring is a dirty blue 18g in the plug under the steering column. DO NOT drill anything in the trunk under the back deck near the gas tank. Ive seen sheet metal screws as short as 1" puncture the top of the gas tank.. That is a problem you dont want and isnt cheap. Also in 1999 the door locks wer disabled by removing the rods for the locks in the door. At one time we had a box of them in the shop..

This car wasn't quite as stripped down as a typical cruiser, and the back locks are fully functional minus the plungers being unscrewed. The handles are attached and working too. The rear window switches do not function though. I have the trim off between the front and back doors and cannot find any 'red plug' like instructions say on crownvic.net. This was a PA Sheriff's car so it was transport only basically. No spotlight holes and a minimum of equipment and holes for such drilled.

motorola_otaku wrote:Or you can do it CHP-style and relocate the tire and build a wooden deck the length of the trunk to mount radios, sirens, and stuff to.

I'd like to see a picture of that, if anyone has one.

motorola_otaku wrote:Underneath the dash, there are two 10 ga. wires terminating into molded plugs that may or may not have a 6-slot fuseholder plugged into them. The red-striped wire with the red plug is constant hot and the green-striped wire with the blue plug is switched with ignition. Both are good for about 40A max.

Couldn't find this. Is it supposed to be behind the passenger side kickpanel or closer to the middle of the dash?

motorola_otaku wrote:Also, down towards the bottom of the A pillar is a bank of factory chassis grounds you can tie into.

Found those. Must be a popular spot, I found a few ring terminals still attached there.

motorola_otaku wrote:If you need 4 ga. to either the trunk or passenger compartment, this can be run through a factory wiring grommet in the firewall. Just make sure you don't strip or cut the factory wiring when you're pokin' a hole.

The grommet was already cut so I re-used that hole. Had to push the wire through from the inside, I couldn't reach the hole from under the hood.

motorola_otaku wrote:These cars come from the factory with ALL power going to the battery except for the starter motor run through a pair of fusible links that are probably going to be quite baked and brittle. Do yourself a HUGE favor and cut it out, and replace it with a 250A ANL fuse. The factory ground from the battery to the frame is also pretty wimpy, and you'd do well to replace it with 4 ga. In fact, don't even think about running 110W radios without doing the above two steps. You may also notice that your lights don't dim anymore when you roll the windows down.

I saw those 2 links. They were still pliable but I see what you mean about them. Couldn't I wire them straight? That is the feed for a fuse box after all. Unless something in there isn't fused...

redbeard wrote:

motorola_otaku wrote:Or you can do it CHP-style and relocate the tire and build a wooden deck the length of the trunk to mount radios, sirens, and stuff to.

I'd like to see a picture of that, if anyone has one.

From this page..

redbeard wrote:

motorola_otaku wrote:Underneath the dash, there are two 10 ga. wires terminating into molded plugs that may or may not have a 6-slot fuseholder plugged into them. The red-striped wire with the red plug is constant hot and the green-striped wire with the blue plug is switched with ignition. Both are good for about 40A max.

Couldn't find this. Is it supposed to be behind the passenger side kickpanel or closer to the middle of the dash?

They're directly under the passenger side of the dash, towards the firewall. I can't immediately recall where they split out of the large wiring bundle that comes out of the firewall, but I want to say that the fuseblock itself (if it's still there.. a lot of agencies remove it and tie directly into the supply leads) is mounted to a bracket on the firewall. You'll know them when you see them.. the red and blue molded plugs are unmistakable.

Unfortunately mine is gone (wrecked), so I can't take pictures for you.

redbeard wrote:

motorola_otaku wrote:These cars come from the factory with ALL power going to the battery except for the starter motor run through a pair of fusible links that are probably going to be quite baked and brittle. Do yourself a HUGE favor and cut it out, and replace it with a 250A ANL fuse. The factory ground from the battery to the frame is also pretty wimpy, and you'd do well to replace it with 4 ga. In fact, don't even think about running 110W radios without doing the above two steps. You may also notice that your lights don't dim anymore when you roll the windows down.

I saw those 2 links. They were still pliable but I see what you mean about them. Couldn't I wire them straight? That is the feed for a fuse box after all. Unless something in there isn't fused...

Opinion ahoy. Proceed at your own risk, YMMV, and so forth.

The primary power fuse is a Ford thing. GM vehicles, including police package and special service vehicles, don't have it. You don't absolutely need one, but you're not hurting anything by having one either. If you do decide to bypass it, be sure to replace it with a minimum of 4 ga.

edit: If you do run big power to the trunk or the passenger compartment, put it on the protected side of the primary power fuse. That way, your big wire runs are protected if one happens to get caught in a pinch point or the insulation rubs off.

Ahh I see it looks like they used some brackets and attached it all to the trunk brackets. Wonder how the spare tire is secured in it's new spot.