Batboard

OK.....I have a Spectra A9, VHF, model T83FWA7HA9AK. I have programmed in 10 channels to give it a test run. Everything is great, except.....I programmed in op-select scan and can add and delet channels to my scan list. However when I have it on and have scan enabled, it will not scan when another channel is active (Am I explaining that correctly???). I have searched through other posts and seem to have everything done as is stated by others, but stll scan shows on and the light is on, but no scan working. In mode config the scan is enabled, in conv config the op-select scan mode is selected for both priority and non-priority. What am I missing? I picked this up at Shelby hamfest today and it is in mint condition.....crisp audio, full power out and it still smells new; came with siren, full A9 head and all cables. Can you say.....$120.00????

Wow,

It has been a long day. I guess I need to get the radio out of monitor mode and ground the mic.....problem solved. Radio works.....One other question.....this thing is drawing almost 28 amps, is that normal???.....can I turn the PA down to about 75 watts out???? If so.....where is the PA drive adjustment??? I have done them on maratracs, just not spectras.

Mike

Do a little math and you'll see that at ~110 watts, 28 amps is pretty normal for MotherMoto's Spectras and MaraTracs. Anyway, probably no scan because the Hub Switch is Enabled and you don't have the mic hanger grounded.

Two ways to deal with this:
If you don't want to ground the hanger, go to Main Menu page >F4 Change/View Codeplug Menu >F2 Radio-Wide Configuration >Hub Switch and select Disable.

Or for a bit different option, ground the hanger, go to Main Menu page >F4 Change/Create/View >F2 Radio-Wide Configuration >Hub Switch and select Enable >F6 Scan Options >Scan Off Hub and select "Enable," but you'll get PL/DPL disable each time you remove the mic from the hanger and the radio will continue to scan in "monitor" mode.

Quite frankly, I'd just disable the Hub Switch and use the "Sql" button to select MONITOR ON or MONITOR OFF. BTW, a long press on the "Sql" button puts you into the Squelch Adjust mode. Use the Mode button to select up or down on the adjustment.

It's all about the myriad of "functionality options" and it can be somewhat complex for the uninitiated.

Thanks for the info. I have plenty of experience with the mid power models, but this is my first 110 watt. I did some research and 27 amps is expected draw so I am right on the money. I would still like to dial it down to about 75-80 watts. is it the same as turning the "pot" inside a maratrac radio or is it a bit more complex? I did the hub disable and the scan is now like I want it.


Thanks again,
Mike

i keep answering my own questions.....I went into the RSS and dialed back the max transmit level from 96 to 92 and one other power level and backed it down just slightly. Radio now performs flawlessly and only draws about 22-24 amps. I notice it draws more power the lower in frequency it goes. I have HAM freqs and some 155 stuff in it and the HAM channels are about 3-4 amps more draw. I know on a maratrac the HAM freqs go crazy high down from the 155 VHF. My other mid power VHF spectra see no change in power draw from the 155 and the HAM freqs.

Mike

The T83's in 146-174 range seem to be OK with ham freqs down to the 144.510 input for a 145.110 repeater, but as you point out, the draw always seems to go up. I haven't tried tweaking any of those for ham yet since they seem to do OK without it, and as you did, I always turn the power down to 80-90 watts hoping for longevity.

I have two older "white label" T83's that have better sensitivity than the Astro Spec that was in my truck, so I put one of them in the truck in place of the Astro. Now I use the Astro as a base in the mountain house (4200 feet) with a 5db gain antenna so that it doesn't know the difference. The Astro is fine with ham stuff and shows little difference in draw from 144 to 159 MHz, for whatever all that's worth as info.

I have two later model "white label" MaraTracs that do ham freqs no sweat, but as you posted, for whatever reasons, the older ones seem to sweat like hell or don't work at all in that range without mods and some tweaking. Most of the older models I've tried unmodified don't work below about 146.0 MHz, while the two late ones I have do just fine at 144.510.