Batboard

Ok, so I have a HT1000 VHF radio, with a DTMF keypad, and is a DN revision with 4.01 firmware.

It is in great condition and the date code, IIRC, is from 1999, so I am going to say it has been re-cased due to its like new condition. Surprising, got it for a steal on eBay for about $90 with shipping with the radio, antenna, and complete charger, just no battery.

Anyways, the DTMF seems to have a problem. I went in the RSS and did the little special menu thing to enable it, and then I enabled hot keypad, so I can dial while PPT.

Now the keypad is supposed to light up. It doesn't. The first row (1,2,3) works, the second row (4,5,6) works, the third row (7,8,9) does NOT work, the fourth row (*,0,#) works, and the fifth row (hang up, RCL, STO) does NOT work.

If I apply pressure to certain areas, I am able to get the back light to come on, but it is a crap shoot. The same spot doesn't always work every time you apply pressure. But when the back light does get working, the rows that don't work still don't work.

What is weird is that the 7,8,9 buttons seems to work if I hold one down. If I hold 7, and press 8 or 9, I get the error beep. if I hold 8 and press 7 or 9, i get a beep. but if I press individual, it does not. If I mix working and none working rows, it is a crap shoot. Holding down the working 1 makes 8 and 9 work, but not 7. Holding down 2 or 3 and then pressing 7 works. etc,etc. haven't tried them all.....

I am wondering if it is just a loose connection during a possible re-case. I mean this radio is in near mint and the date code is i think 1999. Either it was re-cased or it is old stock and never saw service.

I only found a little information on removing the DTMF keypad to check the connections, but only about prying plastic to get the front cover off. When I try to do it, it seems like I am going to crack it or something. And the knobs are on there pretty good, idk how hard I want to pull them to get it removed. I just need to remove enough to get access to the DTMF board connection. Any help (and pics if possible) about doing this would be appreciated.

Either way, I think I still got it for a steal, even if with a partially working DTMF keypad, since the condition was so good. Everything else about the radio works perfectly, except for this one thing.

Thanks for future responses!

Here are some pics of the radio if anyone cares to see:




Thanks again!

Sounds to me like it might be the receptacle that the front cover flex connects to. Some of those connections go intermittent where the connector is supposed to be soldered to the controller board. If you have a controller from another similar radio, try swapping controllers. That should confirm the trouble Word of caution, though. If you try to resolder those connections, be very fast and use low heat. That white plastic on the connector melts at VERY low temperature.
Tom DGN

The knobs are push on, pull off type. The only time I have managed to damage anything is when I had to get the radio apart, and the knob shaft had rusted to the knob. If you pull REALLY HARD, and some dinglebat has glued the knobs on, the volume control shaft WILL come out, and it isn't repairable, you have to replace the control set.

Once the KNOBS are off (both of them, and any extra concentric ring, if yours has one (under the channel selector)), insert a small screwdriver at the bottom of the case between the metal back plate and the plastic. GENTLY pry the plastic away until the radio frame is released from the catches, then separate the frame from the front cover starting at the base. Do this SLOWLY, and you should see your flex cables after about 1/2 inch or so. The radio frame shoehorns into the front cover with the top going in first, so to remove it, reverse the process CAREFULLY. The flex is attached with an incredibly poorly designed connector near the bottom of the chassis. You will see it as you start to take the unit apart.

You CAN leave the flex connected to the radio from the front cover if you are clever and lay the radio open on the work surface, without disconnecting it to troubleshoot.

The connector the flex connects to is a friction fit, you can remove the flex cable by GENTLY and carefully prying up on the edges of the connector wings. Look at it closely and you can see how it comes up. The connector DOES NOT come apart (unless you break it) it only needs to come up from the board about 1/16 of an inch to release the flex....