ball mount and 706 install in 1994 s-10 pickup (updated pics

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sglass
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ball mount and 706 install in 1994 s-10 pickup (updated pics

Post by sglass »

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Last edited by sglass on Thu Jun 17, 2004 10:08 am, edited 1 time in total.
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sglass
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Post by sglass »

I'll take q pic of the complete mount in the morning
no sunlight now
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b7spectra
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Post by b7spectra »

OK, I'll be the first to ask:

Does the radio system cost more or less than the S-10?

:lol:
/\/\|k.e
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sglass
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Post by sglass »

not yet


give it a couple more years


but hey, I had a kenwood ma-5 whip for 80 meters on earlier

woohooo hamsexy!
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W4KRR
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Post by W4KRR »

I see you were using a saw to cut out part of the inside of the bed. Aren't ball mounts made so they can be installed from outside the vehicle? At least that's what I have been told; many of our vehicles here at work have ball mounts that were installed in locations that have no access to the back side of the mount.
Ken, W4KRR
mastr
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Post by mastr »

Aren't ball mounts made so they can be installed from outside the vehicle?
Yes they are, but sometimes it is easier to make an access hole to the back side. Another issue would be if the "inside" wall was too close to allow clearance for the center conductor connection of the ball mount.
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Post by gws »

sglass,
I did a similar install on by old blazer and tahoe. I see you mounted the 706 on the floor. Did you ever look at putting in on the overhead console? THe 706 head fits nicely on most older GM overhead consoles without rear heat.

Image
Gary N8EMR
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Post by gws »

I dont know of any ball mount that can be installled soley from the outside. IN addition to 3 bolts, nuts and washers to put on you have to connect the lead wire or coax to the mount.
W4KRR wrote:I see you were using a saw to cut out part of the inside of the bed. Aren't ball mounts made so they can be installed from outside the vehicle? At least that's what I have been told; many of our vehicles here at work have ball mounts that were installed in locations that have no access to the back side of the mount.
Gary N8EMR
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Post by spareparts »

A trick I was taught by a local radio installer for low band ball mounts:

When you need to cut an access hole from the inside of the vehicle, drill all the way through with a 1/4" bit (through the vehicle skin and the interior obstruction.

Use the 1/4" hole as a pilot for a 3" holesaw from the inside to cut the interior obstruction (as in the interior of the pick up bed). Do not cut through the exterior sheetmetal! Open up the 1/4" pilot hole enough for the bolt for the greenlee punch for the ball mount.

Install the antenna as usual. Use a 3" capplug (snap in cover) to close hole. Add sillicone sealant as necessary.

Martin
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sglass
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Post by sglass »

gws wrote:sglass,
I did a similar install on by old blazer and tahoe. I see you mounted the 706 on the floor. Did you ever look at putting in on the overhead console? THe 706 head fits nicely on most older GM overhead consoles without rear heat.
no upper console in the pickup

I had actually considered that, but decided it would annoy me up there
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W4KRR
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Post by W4KRR »

I dont know of any ball mount that can be installled soley from the outside. IN addition to 3 bolts, nuts and washers to put on you have to connect the lead wire or coax to the mount.

The state of Florida DOT uses low band ball mounts extensively. The ones installed on the pickup trucks are either on the side of the bed, or on the side of the cab behind the driver's door. These installations have no access holes or other openings behind the mount.

I asked our radio shop about how they can do a ball mount with no inside access. The ball mount uses a "C" shaped backing (grounding) plate, which they sometimes call a horseshoe, which has threaded mounting holes so that no nuts are needed. After the mounting holes and center hole are drilled in the vehicle, the "horseshoe" is inserted from outside the body through the center hole with the coax braid already connected. The coax has been fished up from below and out the center hole. While holding the horseshoe in place, headless bolts are threaded from outside, through the three mounting holes into the horseshoe. The ball is pre attached to the plastic mounting base, then the center conductor of the coax is attached to the mounting lug on the back of the ball. The ball with coax and base attached is then slipped over the headless bolts, which can now be removed and replaced, one at a time, with regular mounting bolts. This is what they said, I have never actually seen it done.
Ken, W4KRR
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sglass
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Post by sglass »

that's the kind of moutn jason had
mine was a older style (I bought it in 1991, never had the nads to install it until now)) which has a full metal circle on the back side.


Kinda have to cut an access hole with those.


Seth


now-that I know how the other kind works, that might be an option in the blazer.

Seth
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Heterodyne
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Post by Heterodyne »

Man, I love those 706's.

I'm gonna have to get you some nice maple leaf seat covers when you come up next month, Seth (grin)
Mike in CT
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s-10

Post by Mike in CT »

s-glass:

curious... is there a reason you didn't (or couldn't) stick the ball mount on the rear of the cab. A cap maybe?

seems like a pain to run that long feedline in, under or through the bed.

but nothing is as cool as a big old ball mount and low band whip...

low band is REAL radio!!!

my Suburban looks kinda wimpy with those puny little 450 and 800 spikes.

73
Mike in Ct.
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sglass
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Re: s-10

Post by sglass »

curious... is there a reason you didn't (or couldn't) stick the ball mount on the rear of the cab. A cap maybe?


I just didn't want that so close to me



seems like a pain to run that long feedline in, under or through the bed.

not bad it's inthe fender

but nothing is as cool as a big old ball mount and low band whip...


yeah dude it's hamsexy
va3wxm
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Post by va3wxm »

Yeah, probably not a good idea pumping 100 watts from a whip inches from your head!

Speaking of hamsexy I know a guy who's got a 706 feeding an Icom AT-180 and 13' whip! The whole tuner/antenna is mounted to a 2" trailer hitch sleeve for easy removal. The whip barely makes it under highway overpasses.
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Post by gws »

maybe I am "hamsexy" too.. I had a 16ft whip on my blazer. A bit much mobile, but it can be broken down to smaller sizes when tryly mobile.

Image

va3wxm wrote:Yeah, probably not a good idea pumping 100 watts from a whip inches from your head!

Speaking of hamsexy I know a guy who's got a 706 feeding an Icom AT-180 and 13' whip! The whole tuner/antenna is mounted to a 2" trailer hitch sleeve for easy removal. The whip barely makes it under highway overpasses.
Gary N8EMR
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Post by Heterodyne »

Hey Seth... any photos of the finished installation, or do I have to wait until June to see it?
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sglass
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Post by sglass »

ok bryan


just so you know what to look for


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Last edited by sglass on Thu Jun 17, 2004 10:22 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Heterodyne
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Post by Heterodyne »

Not a bad installation.... I like the big piece of acrylic holding the antenna in place....
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sglass
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Post by sglass »

I got the idea from bill (k3mhz)

he does that on his cars


I figured it would take some strain off the mount


btw bryan-that is a 40 meter antenna
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wa2zdy
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Post by wa2zdy »

Yes,t aht is a good idea. When I had my Dodge Omni (yes, I really did - was a good car too) I used Hustler HF antennas. I had a nylon string as a guy wire from the hinge on the hatchback to the top of the mast.

For my Ranger now, I've been thinking of the best way to add upper support and I think you've given me a good idea. I like using the acrylic for it. I have a cap on my truck though, so I'll put the support up the top of the cap.

Now to decide what antenna. I wish I could afford a screwdriver. Oh well

Nice install Seth.
Chris,
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sglass
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Post by sglass »

wa2zdy wrote: Nice install Seth.
Thank you
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Post by KitN1MCC »

not bad at all

i still like my 103 inch stainless Teee limb Remover

it is just a little Bit more Ham SExxxy
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