Can Jedi Display with Dead Pixels be fixed?
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Can Jedi Display with Dead Pixels be fixed?
I have a MT2000 Model III HT which has some dead pixels on
the display. Does anyone know if there is any way to fix
this, other than completely replacing the front of the radio?
-Thor (N6FNP)
the display. Does anyone know if there is any way to fix
this, other than completely replacing the front of the radio?
-Thor (N6FNP)
- spectragod
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- What radios do you own?: FPP 6 meter XTL 5K's
Display
I took mine to the M shop in town and was told it was not under warranty. this was 3 weeks ago..
DFC2
DFC2
- spectragod
- Posts: 2029
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- What radios do you own?: FPP 6 meter XTL 5K's
SG... you have that update that you can send to me? I sent them my MT2000 with that problem and I was told to go scratch. I just bought the display flex thinking they are no longer repairable at the depot for nothing.spectragod wrote:Saw a new "update" on Friday (24th), saying that they were extending for another year, I'll dig up the info tomorrow. Of course, it will most likely go to Mexico, so it will be f**ked when it gets back.
SG
JAYMZ
"Mom and dad say I should make my life an example of the principles I believe in. But every time I do, they tell me to stop it."
Calvin
"Mom and dad say I should make my life an example of the principles I believe in. But every time I do, they tell me to stop it."
Calvin
I JUST got back a JT1000 for this last week. I had to fight, the old SRN 1394D
was good till Nov of 2006, but they told me it did not cover the JT1000. I disputed, and now they have come out with 1394E I understand. That one should include the JT1000 now. I don't know if they moved the date up from Nov 2006, I have not seen the new SRN.
Jim
PS, the JT went to, and came back from Rockford. It left on a Monday, I had it back Thursday, we won't be seeing that kind of turn around from MexiMoto I bet.
was good till Nov of 2006, but they told me it did not cover the JT1000. I disputed, and now they have come out with 1394E I understand. That one should include the JT1000 now. I don't know if they moved the date up from Nov 2006, I have not seen the new SRN.
Jim
PS, the JT went to, and came back from Rockford. It left on a Monday, I had it back Thursday, we won't be seeing that kind of turn around from MexiMoto I bet.
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- Batboard $upporter
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So, if you're terminally cheap (like me) you can resurrect the displays with heat and pressure. I used one of the small aperture weller princess heat guns, the ones with a .500 dia opening, I think they're a couple hundred watts at best. See this:
I don't reccomend using any of the blowtorch grade 1500 watt guns with a small aperature reducer, it'll have the components floating on their solder before you know it. pressure was applied using a mechanically flat edged piece of .060 copper. Apply pressure to the ribbon on the board using the copper to apply pressure and shield the remainder of the flex from the heat.
NOTICE TO ALL. DO THIS AT YOUR OWN PERIL. if you fark your display, it's on you. As always, with any radio used in a public safety situation, just buy the right part or have it depot serviced. If you're hamsexy or are just playing, have at it, just don't wine to me if you blow it. As far as I'm concerned, any display with missing pixels is a loss anyway, whatever positive outcome you get is just icing.....
I did this with power applied and the display laying on it's back on an anti-stat mat. As the board and flex heat, you will see pixels flicker back to life. I basically waved the heat over the board and copper straightedge for roughly 30 seconds. Eventually you should see the display come all the way back. I removed the heat gun and let the board and flex cool a bit under pressure to minimize thermal shock. The bonded surface is wider than the edge of the copper edge I was using, so I would shift it a 1/16 either way on the flex and reheat. I would reccomend working from the display end of the flex and moving down the board away from if it if you're going to make more than 1 pass with the heat gun. .
Good luck, hope it works out for you adventurous types....
Also, I've had varying degrees of success with different displays, some come back and don't die, some gradually fade out again. My JT1000 was the first one I did, and it's stabilized at maybe %70 good pixels. as I did it before "perfecting" my process (puhleeeez, sarcasm intended), I'll probably have another go at it in the next week....
Will
I don't reccomend using any of the blowtorch grade 1500 watt guns with a small aperature reducer, it'll have the components floating on their solder before you know it. pressure was applied using a mechanically flat edged piece of .060 copper. Apply pressure to the ribbon on the board using the copper to apply pressure and shield the remainder of the flex from the heat.
NOTICE TO ALL. DO THIS AT YOUR OWN PERIL. if you fark your display, it's on you. As always, with any radio used in a public safety situation, just buy the right part or have it depot serviced. If you're hamsexy or are just playing, have at it, just don't wine to me if you blow it. As far as I'm concerned, any display with missing pixels is a loss anyway, whatever positive outcome you get is just icing.....
I did this with power applied and the display laying on it's back on an anti-stat mat. As the board and flex heat, you will see pixels flicker back to life. I basically waved the heat over the board and copper straightedge for roughly 30 seconds. Eventually you should see the display come all the way back. I removed the heat gun and let the board and flex cool a bit under pressure to minimize thermal shock. The bonded surface is wider than the edge of the copper edge I was using, so I would shift it a 1/16 either way on the flex and reheat. I would reccomend working from the display end of the flex and moving down the board away from if it if you're going to make more than 1 pass with the heat gun. .
Good luck, hope it works out for you adventurous types....
Also, I've had varying degrees of success with different displays, some come back and don't die, some gradually fade out again. My JT1000 was the first one I did, and it's stabilized at maybe %70 good pixels. as I did it before "perfecting" my process (puhleeeez, sarcasm intended), I'll probably have another go at it in the next week....
Will
- spectragod
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- Batboard $upporter
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