Batboard

Can be seen at http://www.code3response.com/tahoe.htm . Still waiting on VHF MCS2000. In Car Computer is being built as we speak, and as funds become availible.

Very nice, but boy did you kill the value of the vehicle drilling into the back doors LOL

Nice Job Matt

Why would he care Stan? It's his work truck he'll probably keep it till it dies. With how much he put in to it I'd run it till the tranny physically came off.

Thanks for the compliment, I appreciate it. I wasnt going to half ass the job though and use velcro or something. I got really lucky and found a new body style Suburban in the junkyard locally, and was able to salvage several parts. I was able to get a pair of the rear panels so in case I ever remove the stick, I can replace the panels and you wont be able to tell. Same with the rear taillights (the junked Suburban was a front-end total).

Ya Robert - Its gonna keep going until it knocks off Im putting about 25,000 miles a year on it though at this rate

I must say I liked what you did with the strobe supplies in the storage flip box. I have the same thing in the suburban and was wondering what if anything i could put in there.

Definately do it - It is an excellent place. That whole plastic area above the wheelwell just unscrews. Drill up a one inch hole with a grommet for wiring, along with a one inch hole with grommet into the side of that little compartment, and it turned out great! Did you ever figure out anything if that plate will fit my Tahoe? I guess I just need to purchase one from you and try it.

Remember most strobe supplier get hot when they reun for awhile, so they should have some cooling.

Yes I had someone else mention that in that container they melted the plastic. I have since added a "heatsink" underneath the PS's and am contemplating adding a fan (small computer sized) but I doubt it. Thanks for the tip though!

yes the thought occured to after the post that its all plastic and enclosed with no air flow.

Nice install Matt, i also love the truck !!

Just 4 words: I WANT A TAHOE !

no more impala for me ! i think i will go for a SUV now... need more space !!! But here in Québec... 47% of tax on gas !! so, it cost about 83$ to fill this truck here... now i can see Suprem gas at 0,84¢ per liter !!!!! and if i do the conversion when i put some gas in US it cost about 0,62¢ can. what a damn joke from governement here.. Jean Chrétien su@#S!!

Sorry, this is just pi***** me off !!!

Again, nice instal

Carl

Just don't forget some of them CHP guys that may want to tow the truck for their own inventory!

Great Job Matt.....I like the two peice modification on the LED arrowstick it really looks great......

That is some quality work. The power supplies in the storage bay is perfect, out of sight& out of mind. That is usually the worst looking part of any install because there are so many wires going everywhere.

The idea of mounting the supplies in a small storage compartment is really nothing new. Ive been doing that for the last few years. It makes for a neat install if you use flex guard and matching wire ties. Also a snap bushing on the hole in the plastic trim. I have yet to have a supply melt the plastic. These are on patrol vehicles that use the supplies all the time. Even 110 watt supplies are no problem.

Bill and Matt, thanks for the compliments. FFP, is there was a compliment in the mist of the constructive criticism, thanks

OK. I'll Bite. I looked at your web page.

NICE JOB!!! Very nice.

I don't have hardly any radios in my van right now, as It's not in
the budget to do it right, but when I do finish it, I only hope it
looks half as good as Your setup.

I'm still debating whether or not to go with the ol' HHCH minimalist
approach. I do like the simplicity of the HHCH a lot, and it has grown
on me, but The good old center console with lots of gadgets is
hard to beat, as you have so aptly demonstrated.

In any case, I plan on mimicing your Front and rear X pattern Strobe
light hideaway system. I really like what you did with the lights.
And I already know your a genius at wireless Internet from the
other posts, so obviously I'll do what you suggest there as well.

Again, very well thought out, and practical as well. Doesn't get
much better than that.

Dave

Looks very nice.

Just out of curiosity - how much light loss do you think you suffer from the tinted rear window?
I was thinking about doing the same thing in my work van, and interested in your thoughts...

Dave - thanks for the nice words. Primesite, not sure, but I dont think much. Since the arrowstick isnt really for CLEARING traffic, its not very attention getting (as in bright flashes) in the day bright sun, but it is very visible still to direct traffic. At night, it works excellent in both areas and is very bright.

Code3Response wrote: Since the arrowstick isnt really for CLEARING traffic, its not very attention getting (as in bright flashes) in the day bright sun, but it is very visible still to direct traffic.

I thought an arrowstick was supposed to be an attention getter. I thought it was to make people aware of others on the sides of the road and direct them away from that area. A dim arrowstick wouldn't get my attention. Why didn't you trim away the tint or is it factory in the glass? If you did a neat trim job it would still look fine. Anywho, it does look sharp.

Btw, I'd hope you're not using it to clear traffic, all the reverse driving... yikes!

Obviosuly you dont understand the post. Its not as bright in the midday as, lets say, a strobe or similar, but it is definately able to get attention to allow motorists to follow directions (ya,right - this is Kalifornia ) It is a factory tint.

Nice Job.

must be nice to have money.......wish people would take FOOD stamps for radios!!!!!



great job matt!!!!

Thanks Dawson. Just did a little "photo-shoot" of it before I start doing MAJOR changes -heres an exterior pic:

nicely done--de-badging really cleans up the clutter. Score one for another thinker on the board. Blitz.

Ya, its debadged as well as detrimed. List of mods:

Aftermarket Mods: Debadged, Clear Corners, Amber DRL's, 4 Beam Highbeam Kit, Escalade Handles,
Dual Flowmaster 40 Series Delta Flow dumped exhaust.

Coming Soon: Front Tint, 4 inch Rancho lift on 33's

You should have gotten with me on that Tahoe. I coud have gotten you one wtih the center console delete with the bucket seats that come with the inboard armrests.

Code3Resp...

how did u debadge...?

Just curious as to what technique you used..im thinkin of doing the same..


John

I removed the factory labels on my suburban (only had the rear tailgate labels to begin with)

Automotive friend of mine came up with this tool

Take some fairly heavy gauge nylon fishing line - get 2 popcicle sticks for handles and make wire tool out of it.

slip behind th plastic nameplates and use a sawing motion putting pressure against the nameplate, not the body

Should come right off with little effort.

The adhesive is another matter and will require a bit more effort - your fingers and a little bit of heat are best.

heat gun and fingers and a little patience will do wonders!!! oh and bring some cream for the burns on your hands

seriously i did a whole crusier with a heat gun and some mechanics gloves and you couldnt tell the decals were ever there the only problem i had is when i began doing the reflective decals they were a PITA for some reason.

just my 0.02

D. Dawson

Or APCO, you can just use your fingers Yes - Fishing line works well, but if you can just get a finger under it, pull slowly and it will come off. They use about a 1/8 inch thick 3M double sided adhesive and just squirt some goo gone on it with a little towel and it should come right off. A nice triple stage wax job works nicely as well

Well, the finish line trick works well. My buddy owned an auto detail business so he's picky on stuff like that. When I post more install pics of my work I'll show off the debadged areas.

and no I've not forgotten on the mounting trays, the shop that made them is really back logged with a huge project right now

Matt,

Just wondering....how come you didn't order the double 4 head signalmaster, that was made for exactly what you did? It would have saved the time of hacking up the 8 light and would have been already wired.

Jimmy, mainly because I got that LED Arrowstick for $100 shipped I checked pricing on a new one, and it would of been around $1200 (although that would have been with the new, brighter LED modules), and I couldnt find any on the used market. A little more cost effective for me to spend $50 on parts and a night cussing myself out for taking on the damn job

Pay your bill so I can see pictures please...

That would be embarrassing if that happened to me . . .