Radio into a Bobcat
Posted: Sun Oct 12, 2003 9:32 am
Any one Put a Radio into a Bobcat or a any brand skid stear machine
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Posted: Sun Oct 12, 2003 12:38 pm
I would be leary of the electrical supply there. Is it going to be a constant enough 13.8v or is going to vary up and down like a tractor?
SKID STEAR
Posted: Sun Oct 12, 2003 3:05 pm
I PUT A VHF MOBILE RADIO IN A CASE SKID STEAR A FEW YRS AGO
Posted: Sun Oct 12, 2003 5:35 pm
No it is Dead on 13.8 it has to be with all the onboard computers and electronics.
it has the Kubota Motor same block as in the KubotA TRACTOR
it has the Kubota Motor same block as in the KubotA TRACTOR
Posted: Tue Oct 14, 2003 6:16 am
Most modern equipment (after about 1985) has a real electrical system- not a cheesy variable-voltage generator without a battery in it's system. They are every bit as good as car alternators (or better- if compared to the Delco CS series).
On equipment, cut out a piece of 1/8" aluminum plate to mount the radio to. Mount the plate to the equipment chassis using rubber isolation mounts. These mounts can be had from Jeg's Racing Supply. http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ ... rmenbr=361
Now, mount the radio to the plate.
There are several other companies that have similar mounts and are cheaper, but Jeg's will have them to you in no time at all.
Make sure everthing is vibration proof and all connections are tight.
Make sure everthing is vibration proof and all connections are tight.
Make sure everthing is vibration proof and all connections are tight.
Make sure everthing is vibration proof and all connections are tight.
Make sure everthing is vibration proof and all connections are tight.
I would install some type of overvoltage clamp and filter, since many times, this equipment gets dead batteries and the construction monkeys will jump start the unit from whatever is nearby- whether a forklift, an F350 or a D9 Cat. Sometimes they even try to use 24 volts!
On equipment, cut out a piece of 1/8" aluminum plate to mount the radio to. Mount the plate to the equipment chassis using rubber isolation mounts. These mounts can be had from Jeg's Racing Supply. http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ ... rmenbr=361
Now, mount the radio to the plate.
There are several other companies that have similar mounts and are cheaper, but Jeg's will have them to you in no time at all.
Make sure everthing is vibration proof and all connections are tight.
Make sure everthing is vibration proof and all connections are tight.
Make sure everthing is vibration proof and all connections are tight.
Make sure everthing is vibration proof and all connections are tight.
Make sure everthing is vibration proof and all connections are tight.
I would install some type of overvoltage clamp and filter, since many times, this equipment gets dead batteries and the construction monkeys will jump start the unit from whatever is nearby- whether a forklift, an F350 or a D9 Cat. Sometimes they even try to use 24 volts!
Posted: Tue Oct 14, 2003 6:01 pm
I know about the voltage. but the owner is damn good about things.he is the only one who is gonna. run the machine.
Posted: Tue Oct 14, 2003 6:57 pm
The hard part is finding room to mount it. We put a Maxtrac in one couple of weeks ago. Ended up putting it on the left side between the seat and the outer cage. The flip down saftey bar makes it challenging to find a spot. We made custom brackets to mount it to existing bolts. Never drill into a ROPS (roll over protection system) cage. The unit will not pass a saftey inspection. Voltage is not a problem- that thing had a full set of electronic guages. The antenna was mounted on an angle bracket on the back edge of the roof. This was a fully enclosed cab with air conditioning & heat.
Posted: Tue Oct 14, 2003 11:01 pm
Got any suggestions? I just had a mechanic cook a brand new MCS2000 by jump-starting the car it was in, using a truck-mounted generator cranked up to 20+ volts!jim wrote:I would install some type of overvoltage clamp and filter, since many times, this equipment gets dead batteries and the construction monkeys will jump start the unit from whatever is nearby- whether a forklift, an F350 or a D9 Cat. Sometimes they even try to use 24 volts!
You can't imagine how bad this radio smells. Stunk up my office something awful.
Posted: Wed Oct 15, 2003 10:50 am
There are companies that make "jump start protectors" that just parallel the battery. It's a just a bunch of transient clamps in a box.
It's the same principal as the surge protector you'd put on your service entrance at home. You can (or at least used to be able to) find them in Gall's and JC Whitney.
You could get several MOVs rated at about 15 volts and place them AFTER the 15A fuse. If voltage > 15V, the clamps ground the B+ lead and blow the fuse.
Tessco also sells a unit that allows 12V to pass, but shuts down if over 15V or so.
I think the Chargeguard monitors for overvoltage, but I don't know about how fast this is.
It's the same principal as the surge protector you'd put on your service entrance at home. You can (or at least used to be able to) find them in Gall's and JC Whitney.
You could get several MOVs rated at about 15 volts and place them AFTER the 15A fuse. If voltage > 15V, the clamps ground the B+ lead and blow the fuse.
Tessco also sells a unit that allows 12V to pass, but shuts down if over 15V or so.
I think the Chargeguard monitors for overvoltage, but I don't know about how fast this is.
Posted: Wed Oct 15, 2003 3:16 pm
I plan on using a sm120. also If you cant Frill the ROPS were did Put Antenna. i was thinkin about a thick roof moun NMO and drillin a whole thru the roof. and also mounting a Strobe on the roof.Zaputil wrote:The hard part is finding room to mount it. We put a Maxtrac in one couple of weeks ago. Ended up putting it on the left side between the seat and the outer cage. The flip down saftey bar makes it challenging to find a spot. We made custom brackets to mount it to existing bolts. Never drill into a ROPS (roll over protection system) cage. The unit will not pass a saftey inspection. Voltage is not a problem- that thing had a full set of electronic guages. The antenna was mounted on an angle bracket on the back edge of the roof. This was a fully enclosed cab with air conditioning & heat.
I wish he had got the John deere version. there AC unti sticks out the back of the cab and it is the perfect spot for strobe and antenna,
Posted: Wed Oct 15, 2003 8:09 pm
The ROPS is not the same as the roof, you can drill into the roof to mount your antenna and strobe. To tell you the truth, you will almost always see mag. mounts used for the strobe and though you almost never see a radio, if you do it most likely has a mag. mount antenna. This is not to say that you won't see them mounted as you say, I have, but that most people don't.KitN1MCC wrote: I plan on using a sm120. also If you cant Frill the ROPS were did Put Antenna. i was thinkin about a thick roof moun NMO and drillin a whole thru the roof. and also mounting a Strobe on the roof.
I wish he had got the John deere version. there AC unti sticks out the back of the cab and it is the perfect spot for strobe and antenna,
Cam
Posted: Wed Oct 15, 2003 8:23 pm
Was it the Battery Buddy that would cut power even with the engine running and cause your car to shut down while raining at night with the AC and wipers on while in pursuit?
Posted: Thu Oct 16, 2003 5:01 am
The Battery Buddy....now that was a grewt idea 