Batboard

What do y'all use for 100A fuses? I'm looking for something a little less guady than the ones I see in and on car stereos. Something that looks professional, not ghetto-phat.

For 100A, I would use either a circuit breaker or an ANL-type wafer fuse.

I'm using Tsunami Autosound products for my installs. They're very friendly and will set you up as a dealer if you do installs professionally. They also have reasonable prices on the audio-quality, super-flexible large-gauge wire (1/0, 4, etc.)

http://www.tsunamionline.com/

ANL or HI-AMP fuses. That's what I use and yes I too hate the car audio crap.

http://www.wranglernw.com

Everything you could ever want in auto electric (and they are not car stereo guys )

Check out their http://www.wranglernw.com/ecotech/ 240 amps at idle.....

Nice guys, been in business along time and will steer you right. Their online catalog is poor, but call them up and they will get it right.

Aww man, you don't want those gold-plated fuses with the see-through jacket on your primary wire? That would look mad phat yo.

I also hate audio 'quality' crap used in non-ghetto fab installs. Just looks tacky.

Platinum breakers made by TSD.. screw that car stero crap

Along these same lines, what do you guys use for battery connectors?

KC8NIY wrote:Along these same lines, what do you guys use for battery connectors?

If you're trying to pull 100+A, I would recommend a slightly different method. Replace the stock battery with an Optima dual-post red top starting battery. Take the automotive wiring to whichever post it's supposed to go to, then buy the necessary hardware to attach your wiring to the spare set of posts. I've used this setup in my truck, through 150A circuit breaker, and it works great. A bit more expensive, but better than having to hack up the factory wiriing.

Again wranglernw.com

They have DUAL post batter terminals, miltary style and cable and the crimb tools or you can buy the compression fittings.

chtucker wrote:Again wranglernw.com

They have DUAL post batter terminals, miltary style and cable and the crimb tools or you can buy the compression fittings.

Looking at their website, they seem to have decent products. One thing: Stay away from the "hammer" type battery cable crimpers. I have yet to see a connection made by one of those hold up any lenth of time.

Martin

My GM sideposts just make me sick. I'm thinking about terminating them at the auxilary block and rerunning it with 2/0 or so. Anyone know where I can get high-current replacement sidepost terminals?

Also, my application is two batteries; one up front and one in the trunk with the radios. They will be tied together with 100A ANL fuses and ricersexy fuses.

My other application is breaking 100A @ 48V in case of a battery fault on The Mother Of All Ghetto-Hacked UPSes. I have a pair of 100A AirPAX breakers, but don't have space to mount them. I'm thinking about switching to car-/marine-style breakers. At least they can mount flat.

SlimBob wrote:My other application is breaking 100A @ 48V in case of a battery fault on The Mother Of All Ghetto-Hacked UPSes. I have a pair of 100A AirPAX breakers, but don't have space to mount them. I'm thinking about switching to car-/marine-style breakers. At least they can mount flat.

Slim,
You are breaking the total available current of the battery. If the battery string can supply 10000 amps, you need a breaker (or breaker with a back up fuse) that can interupt this, rather then that arc over.

Martin

Update: I found 100A fuses at Autozone for $2.49 apiece. I bought all they had I'll post pictures soon, if I remember to take them