Strobe tube heat- Comet Flash vs. Neobe
Moderator: Queue Moderator
Strobe tube heat- Comet Flash vs. Neobe
OK- For those who had not yet guessed from all of the Explorer questions over the last couple of weeks, I am in the process of switching Explorers.
In my old truck, I had strobe tubes in the tail lights, including the reverse lights. When I pulled the tubes from the old truck, I noticed that the metalized finish on the reflector, directly above the tube, was crazed and the plastic of the housing had actually bubbled a little. Obviously the tube was generating a bit more warmth than the reflector was designed to take.
In the old truck, the strobes were powered by a Whelen UPS-94C (90w Comet Flash). The new truck will be a 60w Tomar Neobe supply.
Is there any appreciable difference in the heat generated by the tubes firing off either supply? The Neobe is notable lower powered, but with a longer on time.
Is ther anything to be gained by putting the tubes in base up through the top of the housing so that the tube base is directly above the lamp?
I'm curious if I can get away with it on the new truck, or if putting the tubes into such a small space is going to be a losing proposition regardless of the supply.
Thanks!!
In my old truck, I had strobe tubes in the tail lights, including the reverse lights. When I pulled the tubes from the old truck, I noticed that the metalized finish on the reflector, directly above the tube, was crazed and the plastic of the housing had actually bubbled a little. Obviously the tube was generating a bit more warmth than the reflector was designed to take.
In the old truck, the strobes were powered by a Whelen UPS-94C (90w Comet Flash). The new truck will be a 60w Tomar Neobe supply.
Is there any appreciable difference in the heat generated by the tubes firing off either supply? The Neobe is notable lower powered, but with a longer on time.
Is ther anything to be gained by putting the tubes in base up through the top of the housing so that the tube base is directly above the lamp?
I'm curious if I can get away with it on the new truck, or if putting the tubes into such a small space is going to be a losing proposition regardless of the supply.
Thanks!!
A watt is a kilo-Joule per second. Therefore, there will be less heat created in the system. I think the tail lights are still 40 watt maximum, so depending on the materials that they chose for the tail lights, there still might be a little damage due to it, but more than likely a smaller amount. Usually that affect is not seen in the front of the car because the air going past the lights cools them and prevents damage.
The reverse light one on an explorer, esp 1st gen ones is REALLY small, way too small for most strobes to defuse heat right. When I switched trucks I didn't even bother pulling the strobes, too much work to tear apart the headlights again, I just bought new tubes on sale for like $12ea. Much easier!
Welcome SVT
Welcome SVT

-Robert F.
KG6EAQ
KG6EAQ
Whelen supplies heat rings with the remote strobe tubes (or use too) due to tubes being installed in smaller, and smaller area's. These are to help with heat, but I have not found any heat related problems with any of my installs from S10 lights or explorer turn signals.
Most reverse lights in SUV style trucks are too small to dissapate heat well.
Most reverse lights in SUV style trucks are too small to dissapate heat well.
Lowband radio. The original and non-complicated wide area interoperable communications system


Currently, I have strobes installed:
2 corner strobes next to the headlights
Dual Dashmiser on dash
2 corner strobe in amber turn signals
Dual Dashmiser on the top left side (for really simple mounting, let me know, and i'll post pictures of how to do it unabtrusivly...)
All powered off a ISP188 Whelen power supply (really, the way to go. I don't like it when you have stuff out of sync
)
I have noticed that the strobes in the rear directionals do get quite warm. They are extreamly bright and attention getting, so it would be my recomendation to put them there if you can, just don't leave them running on the side of the road for an hour or two.
I am probably going to get another power supply, and put the last dual dashmiser in the back window @ some point, and then maybe add another strobe or two to the front, but, that's when I have more money.
-Alex
2 corner strobes next to the headlights
Dual Dashmiser on dash
2 corner strobe in amber turn signals
Dual Dashmiser on the top left side (for really simple mounting, let me know, and i'll post pictures of how to do it unabtrusivly...)
All powered off a ISP188 Whelen power supply (really, the way to go. I don't like it when you have stuff out of sync

I have noticed that the strobes in the rear directionals do get quite warm. They are extreamly bright and attention getting, so it would be my recomendation to put them there if you can, just don't leave them running on the side of the road for an hour or two.
I am probably going to get another power supply, and put the last dual dashmiser in the back window @ some point, and then maybe add another strobe or two to the front, but, that's when I have more money.
-Alex
- FFParamedic571
- Banned
- Posts: 467
- Joined: Tue Aug 27, 2002 7:57 pm
Some tips for mounting hideaway strobes...
1. If you have to drill a one inch hole in a tail light, reverse light, corner light Ect... Make damn sure the tube will fit first. Don't eyeball it or guess. Ive seen a few yahoo's jam a Whelen SA238 ( the old screw mount style) into a Tahoe tail and reverse. Then procede to forcibly Jam the bejesus to make it fit back in the truck. This lasted about 2 weeks before the tail light lens melted The wire was pinched and blew the supply.
2 Silicone... Silicone.. Unless you use a weather proof connector. the AMP plugs are notorious for gettin wet and shorting tubes and supplies. Some guys cheat by electrical taping the hell out of the connectors that is far from perfect.. The rest just hack off the connector and just butt connect them. Unless you use a waterproof butt it can be done.
3. Be careful where you route your cables.. A hood or door hinge is no place for a cable.. Its best to follow factory harnesses. Wire ties and flex jacket is your best friend under the hood. Ive seen cables over fan shrouds ..
4 When going though a firewall always use a rubber grommet or snap bushing. I like a mininmum of 1" for 2 -4 cables 1 1/4 for 4-6 cables. When your done silicone the hole.. It saves alot of wet carpet and cold feet..
5 mount your supply to the body if possible... Dont wire tie it to a seat frame vellcro it to the carpet, let it flop around by the plugs in a storage compartment.. Have a good solid ground wrapping the wire on a wood screw and or body stud with a nut or a wire nut is trouble
Always fuse it at the rated amp. Use a good wire not one 2" with 4 butts in it...
Just a few friendly tips to save you some headaches...
1. If you have to drill a one inch hole in a tail light, reverse light, corner light Ect... Make damn sure the tube will fit first. Don't eyeball it or guess. Ive seen a few yahoo's jam a Whelen SA238 ( the old screw mount style) into a Tahoe tail and reverse. Then procede to forcibly Jam the bejesus to make it fit back in the truck. This lasted about 2 weeks before the tail light lens melted The wire was pinched and blew the supply.
2 Silicone... Silicone.. Unless you use a weather proof connector. the AMP plugs are notorious for gettin wet and shorting tubes and supplies. Some guys cheat by electrical taping the hell out of the connectors that is far from perfect.. The rest just hack off the connector and just butt connect them. Unless you use a waterproof butt it can be done.
3. Be careful where you route your cables.. A hood or door hinge is no place for a cable.. Its best to follow factory harnesses. Wire ties and flex jacket is your best friend under the hood. Ive seen cables over fan shrouds ..
4 When going though a firewall always use a rubber grommet or snap bushing. I like a mininmum of 1" for 2 -4 cables 1 1/4 for 4-6 cables. When your done silicone the hole.. It saves alot of wet carpet and cold feet..
5 mount your supply to the body if possible... Dont wire tie it to a seat frame vellcro it to the carpet, let it flop around by the plugs in a storage compartment.. Have a good solid ground wrapping the wire on a wood screw and or body stud with a nut or a wire nut is trouble
Always fuse it at the rated amp. Use a good wire not one 2" with 4 butts in it...
Just a few friendly tips to save you some headaches...
What year explorer is it?
I have hideaways in the reverse lights of my '03 Ranger pickup which is probably very similar to the Explorer. I have a 90 watt / 6 outlet pack on full power running 4 strobes, 2 of which are those hideaways. I left them running for about 2 hours straight last week blocking an accident and they we just fine. The housing and lens were WARM but not hot or overheated at all.
I have hideaways in the reverse lights of my '03 Ranger pickup which is probably very similar to the Explorer. I have a 90 watt / 6 outlet pack on full power running 4 strobes, 2 of which are those hideaways. I left them running for about 2 hours straight last week blocking an accident and they we just fine. The housing and lens were WARM but not hot or overheated at all.
"I'll eat you like a plate of bacon and eggs in the morning. "
- Some loser on rr.com
eBay at it's finest:
Me: "What exactly is a 900Mhz UHF CB?"
Them: "A very nice CB at 900Mhz speed!"

- Some loser on rr.com
eBay at it's finest:
Me: "What exactly is a 900Mhz UHF CB?"
Them: "A very nice CB at 900Mhz speed!"

The new truck is a '98 4 door V-8
I'm probably just going to "pay my money and take my chances" with the tubes in the reverse lights. The reflectors in the soon-to-retire '94 only showed minor damage after a lot of hours of use, plus I'm looking at a lower powered supply, and I'll try to tweak the placement a bit lower.
If I'm wrong, there's always eBay for replacement tail lights
...
I'm probably just going to "pay my money and take my chances" with the tubes in the reverse lights. The reflectors in the soon-to-retire '94 only showed minor damage after a lot of hours of use, plus I'm looking at a lower powered supply, and I'll try to tweak the placement a bit lower.
If I'm wrong, there's always eBay for replacement tail lights
