Hi all,
I need a source for UHF / Microwave rated NMOs (I found some 2.4GHz 3dBd antennas as well as 2.4GHz NMOs using LMR 195, but the company doesn't sell them seperately from the antenna) as well as a source for a good, sturdy trunk mountable battery box. I'm looking at putting a sealed gell-cell in the trunk to run the radios (as well as parallel with the vehicle electrical system) and want it mounted securely.
UHF/uWave NMO mounts and battery boxes
Moderator: Queue Moderator
-
ricciticcitembo
- Posts: 730
- Joined: Tue Feb 26, 2002 4:00 pm
one of those "weak ass yellow batteries" or even a red top will work fine in the trunk without a battery box. You just need a secure battery tray to mount it in, with a good quality hold down.
Use insulated caps and cables, and you'll have a good setup.
I've done it in a couple of impala's. And those trunks are small.
I've also done it in an off-road cherokee.
Plus my friend who races land rovers, has both vehicle batteries mounted in the rear of the vehicle.
Use insulated caps and cables, and you'll have a good setup.
I've done it in a couple of impala's. And those trunks are small.
I've also done it in an off-road cherokee.
Plus my friend who races land rovers, has both vehicle batteries mounted in the rear of the vehicle.
alex wrote:Enough is enough. We aren't the world's police.
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/st ... storeNum=9
Is the (Group 27) battery box I ordered; I've got some 45AH gell cells in the basement that I'm going to use one of in the mix, I have to order 100A wafer fuses and wafer fuse holders (looking at Parts Express for those) and 25 or so feet of #2. I looked at DelCity, but they indicated that even if I ordered 50 feet of #2, it was on 25 foot reels and would be shipped as two cables. The problem I'm looking at is that I want to snake a cable from the aux battery terminals just back of the battery try on the passenger side all the way to the trunk. Now, the car is 214.1 inches long to begin with which is 17 some odd feet, not including feet that may be taken up by redirecting the cable around the tire, etc. into the passenger cabin and back to the trunk. I had hoped to mount the battery just behind the tire on the passenger's side, hopefully leaving some room for the radios themselves to be mounted behind the battery and in a stack on the right side of the trunk (so I don't loose so much space).
As far as the ground path goes, I'm going to run a stainless stud through the trunk, bolted on both sides, with a ground strap below reaching to the frame with the radios and battery tied above using thier respective cables. The radios will be Syntor X/X9000s -- about four of them; I have three of them now. Yes, I need trays and some special brackets; I'd better make friends at a machine shop, as well as come up with a reinforced mounting structure for the radios.
I'm still curious about whether I should go down the middle or just stay on the right hand side... any other suggestions are welcome...
Is the (Group 27) battery box I ordered; I've got some 45AH gell cells in the basement that I'm going to use one of in the mix, I have to order 100A wafer fuses and wafer fuse holders (looking at Parts Express for those) and 25 or so feet of #2. I looked at DelCity, but they indicated that even if I ordered 50 feet of #2, it was on 25 foot reels and would be shipped as two cables. The problem I'm looking at is that I want to snake a cable from the aux battery terminals just back of the battery try on the passenger side all the way to the trunk. Now, the car is 214.1 inches long to begin with which is 17 some odd feet, not including feet that may be taken up by redirecting the cable around the tire, etc. into the passenger cabin and back to the trunk. I had hoped to mount the battery just behind the tire on the passenger's side, hopefully leaving some room for the radios themselves to be mounted behind the battery and in a stack on the right side of the trunk (so I don't loose so much space).
As far as the ground path goes, I'm going to run a stainless stud through the trunk, bolted on both sides, with a ground strap below reaching to the frame with the radios and battery tied above using thier respective cables. The radios will be Syntor X/X9000s -- about four of them; I have three of them now. Yes, I need trays and some special brackets; I'd better make friends at a machine shop, as well as come up with a reinforced mounting structure for the radios.
I'm still curious about whether I should go down the middle or just stay on the right hand side... any other suggestions are welcome...
I have a pile of those "weak ass yellow batteries" out there in police cars, ambulances and fire apparatus that are 5+ years old and still going. Most standard batteries in PS service go for two years or less. I personally would never install a Die Hard or any other Exide-made battery in even my lawnmower. When Die Hard was produced in its own facility, it was a great battery. about 6-7 years ago, they contracted Exide to produce them. Exide batteries are nothing but a major acid leak and also suffer from plate breakage due to the ultra-thin construction of their internals.
Those "weak ass yellow batteries" are one of the best batteries that money can buy. Run one dead and remove the load and you'll start 1/2 hour later without even charging it. As for durability.....why does just about every off-roader, rock crawler, swamper and mud bogger use them? They take more of a physical beating that any other battery could even dream of. Besides, you can poke a hole in their case and the electrolyte will stay in them and still allow the battery to work.
I also use the "weak ass yellow batteries" for base station and repeater backups. They will outlast any battery for sold under $250.00 for backup use. You can expect about a 3 day standby on a CDM 1250 base that sees light use. Not bad, huh? Don't try that with 2 paralleled Die Hards!
As for a batter box, try http://www.jegs.com
Those "weak ass yellow batteries" are one of the best batteries that money can buy. Run one dead and remove the load and you'll start 1/2 hour later without even charging it. As for durability.....why does just about every off-roader, rock crawler, swamper and mud bogger use them? They take more of a physical beating that any other battery could even dream of. Besides, you can poke a hole in their case and the electrolyte will stay in them and still allow the battery to work.
I also use the "weak ass yellow batteries" for base station and repeater backups. They will outlast any battery for sold under $250.00 for backup use. You can expect about a 3 day standby on a CDM 1250 base that sees light use. Not bad, huh? Don't try that with 2 paralleled Die Hards!
As for a batter box, try http://www.jegs.com