Has anyone tried to build or use a RICK type connection between portables? I would realy like to try to get one going. We primarly use Sabers and need to bridge some channels together.
Please tell me this is possible or I am completely nuts for even thinking this.
Steve
R*I*C*K for portables? (sabers)
Moderator: Queue Moderator
HI:
Most R*I*C*K units are designed for " Repeater "
operation.
Handie-Talkies ( and especially Sabers ) are designed
for " Intermittent Duty" cycles
Means maybe 30sec ~ 1 min Transmission, and wait 2 min.
Although you could key the Transmitter for 2 ~ 3 ~ 5 min
Periods, you might find after a short time period you would
be " Replacing " the Power Amp, since the Sabers have
very little heat sinks.
If you have a Saber.....Try Transmitting for 2 min and see
how hot the side of the case gets !
Yes, I am aware that Motorola does use Sabers, MX's, and
Even GP300's for Small Low Tier Repeaters !
However, most if not all of them are tuned down to less
than ( 1 ) Watt for reliablilty purposes.
Anyhow, hope that helps.
Monty
Most R*I*C*K units are designed for " Repeater "
operation.
Handie-Talkies ( and especially Sabers ) are designed
for " Intermittent Duty" cycles
Means maybe 30sec ~ 1 min Transmission, and wait 2 min.
Although you could key the Transmitter for 2 ~ 3 ~ 5 min
Periods, you might find after a short time period you would
be " Replacing " the Power Amp, since the Sabers have
very little heat sinks.
If you have a Saber.....Try Transmitting for 2 min and see
how hot the side of the case gets !
Yes, I am aware that Motorola does use Sabers, MX's, and
Even GP300's for Small Low Tier Repeaters !
However, most if not all of them are tuned down to less
than ( 1 ) Watt for reliablilty purposes.
Anyhow, hope that helps.
Monty
Need help on a Program Cable or (/\/\) Rib Box ?
Contact me anytime/All availible / Free Support Info !
mail to: [email protected]
PLease avoid PM's whenever possible. Box gets too full.
Contact me anytime/All availible / Free Support Info !
mail to: [email protected]
PLease avoid PM's whenever possible. Box gets too full.
ricciticcitembo (who else?) is, i belive, using a saber for a repeater.
http://batboard.batlabs.com/viewtopic.p ... r+repeater
http://batboard.batlabs.com/viewtopic.p ... r+repeater
-
Crimestopper
- Posts: 267
- Joined: Sun Sep 15, 2002 10:41 pm
-
ricciticcitembo
- Posts: 730
- Joined: Tue Feb 26, 2002 4:00 pm
As long as you turn the power
down to a Watt or less, and use a battery eliminator it should work OK.
If you were planning on just using an Extra High Capacity 1800 mA
battery, I think you should forget that idea because the battery will
go dead Mighty Fast (Like 1/2 Hour) on Both Units.
The Saber Pulls at a minimum about 2.0 Amps Transmit Current.
That is a Lot of current. It Pulls about 4 Amps Normally at 5 Watts.
Plus is gets overheated Immediately (60 Seconds) at 5 Watts, just
like Monty Said. It is better at One Watt, but it will still get warm, as
it is pulling about 2 Amps. So it is a Non-linear scale of Amps/heat vs.
Watts output, but you are probably already aware of this.
So if the above does not deter you, then a cable could be made
connecting two speaker mics together, and you could use the stock
rubber duck antennas on the VHF and UHF Radios, and you would
then have a small light weight cross band repeater.
And If the wire was long enough between the two Speaker/mics
then you might be able to get away with an In-Band Repeater as
long as the Frequency Spread was greater than say 10 Mhz, or
there about.
What I did with my latest Model of the Saber Repeater was
COMPLETELY Different. I Actually Turned the Power up to MAXimum
which is about 6-7 Watts on a UHF, just to get 4.5-5 Watts out of the
Duplexer. And the thing Still Runs Cool even at the Elevated 7 Watt
Level. And It Still does 100% Duty Cycle, believe it or not. But----
Exotic material like Boron Mitride, Silver Conductive Paste, And Special
Aluminum Was used, along with Extensive Machining. NO Dow Corning
or any other type of silicone grease was used at all. Not good enough.
Gots to use the good stuff, if your going to Sweat out every last drop!
I Almost had to bust out with the MOSFETS. But I didn't. Any higher
power, and I would have to.... Probably I could Get 10 Watts out
reliably. Any more than that, and Your gonna need Water cooling.
You can forget about the Peltier Solid State Electric Heat Pumps too.
Not good enough.
And actually I'm happy with 5 Watts out of the Saber/3.5 out of the
Duplexer. Works Excellent with a small 1/4 wave ground plane
antenna. Stone cold reliable. And that's what really matters.
Hell I think it's been well over a year already. It Never quit yet or gets tired.
Also I think I should mention that along with the Exotic Materials/
extensive Machining the HEATSINK was from a 1000Watt Audio Amp.
I cut that 1000W heatsink in Half. This should give you an idea.
It is about 12 inches by eight inches by 2 inches thick. A little larger
than a Spectra. If the heatsink was any smaller, it would be NFG.
The Power Supply (Linear) and the Sabers PA share the same
heatsink. The unit runs cool as a cucumber. Which is the way I like it.
The Prototype in the above link that mostar posted , in the Benz
chassis got Hot as Hell at only 2Watts, and I thought it was going
to start a fire or something. Even turned the red wires Black from
the heat. Not Good. Henceforth the new improved model with the
BigAss heatsink. Problem solved forever. The original unit still DOES
work though. I am going to re-do that thing somehow. Eventually.
Crimestopper- Thanks for the info on the systel unit. I'd like to get
one of those. They sound pretty cool.
down to a Watt or less, and use a battery eliminator it should work OK.
If you were planning on just using an Extra High Capacity 1800 mA
battery, I think you should forget that idea because the battery will
go dead Mighty Fast (Like 1/2 Hour) on Both Units.
The Saber Pulls at a minimum about 2.0 Amps Transmit Current.
That is a Lot of current. It Pulls about 4 Amps Normally at 5 Watts.
Plus is gets overheated Immediately (60 Seconds) at 5 Watts, just
like Monty Said. It is better at One Watt, but it will still get warm, as
it is pulling about 2 Amps. So it is a Non-linear scale of Amps/heat vs.
Watts output, but you are probably already aware of this.
So if the above does not deter you, then a cable could be made
connecting two speaker mics together, and you could use the stock
rubber duck antennas on the VHF and UHF Radios, and you would
then have a small light weight cross band repeater.
And If the wire was long enough between the two Speaker/mics
then you might be able to get away with an In-Band Repeater as
long as the Frequency Spread was greater than say 10 Mhz, or
there about.
What I did with my latest Model of the Saber Repeater was
COMPLETELY Different. I Actually Turned the Power up to MAXimum
which is about 6-7 Watts on a UHF, just to get 4.5-5 Watts out of the
Duplexer. And the thing Still Runs Cool even at the Elevated 7 Watt
Level. And It Still does 100% Duty Cycle, believe it or not. But----
Exotic material like Boron Mitride, Silver Conductive Paste, And Special
Aluminum Was used, along with Extensive Machining. NO Dow Corning
or any other type of silicone grease was used at all. Not good enough.
Gots to use the good stuff, if your going to Sweat out every last drop!
I Almost had to bust out with the MOSFETS. But I didn't. Any higher
power, and I would have to.... Probably I could Get 10 Watts out
reliably. Any more than that, and Your gonna need Water cooling.
You can forget about the Peltier Solid State Electric Heat Pumps too.
Not good enough.
And actually I'm happy with 5 Watts out of the Saber/3.5 out of the
Duplexer. Works Excellent with a small 1/4 wave ground plane
antenna. Stone cold reliable. And that's what really matters.
Hell I think it's been well over a year already. It Never quit yet or gets tired.
Also I think I should mention that along with the Exotic Materials/
extensive Machining the HEATSINK was from a 1000Watt Audio Amp.
I cut that 1000W heatsink in Half. This should give you an idea.
It is about 12 inches by eight inches by 2 inches thick. A little larger
than a Spectra. If the heatsink was any smaller, it would be NFG.
The Power Supply (Linear) and the Sabers PA share the same
heatsink. The unit runs cool as a cucumber. Which is the way I like it.
The Prototype in the above link that mostar posted , in the Benz
chassis got Hot as Hell at only 2Watts, and I thought it was going
to start a fire or something. Even turned the red wires Black from
the heat. Not Good. Henceforth the new improved model with the
BigAss heatsink. Problem solved forever. The original unit still DOES
work though. I am going to re-do that thing somehow. Eventually.
Crimestopper- Thanks for the info on the systel unit. I'd like to get
one of those. They sound pretty cool.
Last edited by ricciticcitembo on Sat Jun 26, 2004 9:56 pm, edited 1 time in total.
ricciticcitembo wrote:
a cable could be made
connecting two speaker mics together, and you could use the stock
rubber duck antennas on the VHF and UHF Radios, and you would
then have a small light weight cross band repeater.
And If the wire was long enough between the two Speaker/mics
then you might be able to get away with an In-Band Repeater as
long as the Frequency Spread was greater than say 10 Mhz, or
there about.
you should make a diagram and sumit it to batlabs for the saber page!
Rule #35
"That which does not kill you,
has made a huge tactical error"
"That which does not kill you,
has made a huge tactical error"
-
ricciticcitembo
- Posts: 730
- Joined: Tue Feb 26, 2002 4:00 pm
OK. Here is my latest model Saber Repeater.
Last edited by ricciticcitembo on Thu Jul 08, 2004 10:34 pm, edited 3 times in total.
-
ricciticcitembo
- Posts: 730
- Joined: Tue Feb 26, 2002 4:00 pm
-
ricciticcitembo
- Posts: 730
- Joined: Tue Feb 26, 2002 4:00 pm
Well, The controller I built. This is a special Unit. It is not normal.wd9cms wrote:Dave,
The repeater looks great.....thanks for the pictures......what are you using for a controller??? Are the angle brackets attached to the PA's and then to the heat sink???
Thanks,
For starters, it is digital only, and will NOT repeat an analog signal.
nuff said.
And yes, the aluminum ( specially thermally conductive type) L bracket
is attatched with silver conductive heatsink compound to the saber
PA, and is then bolted down with same silver goop on to the larger
heatsink (standard aluminum)
The Boron Mitride comes in on the TO-220 packaged Power Supply
output transistors on that Gold anodized Aluminum Bar.
The Power Supply is good for 10 Amps All day long.
But I run it at 5-7. There is also a 3 channel mixer and Homemade optocouplers in this particular unit. As well as other circuitry that
cannot be seen because it is underneath the duplexer.
I like it a Lot. It is a very nifty James Bond Gadget.