scanner?
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scanner?
where can i pull igniton sense power for a scanner from? i am pretty sure the scanner is a bc560xlt but ill have to check. and what is a good antenna for the following freqs in the 154-155, 453,460, 508. thanks
You can pull it from anywhere there is a ignition switch power in your vehicle as long as the circuit can handle the additional load of the scanner. Since you didn't tell us what kind of vehicle it was, you'll have to find it on your own I guess.
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ok thanls guys. It's a nissan altima. will a trunk lip mount work better than a glass mount? im not sure where im gonna put it yet. i want to see if it will fit in the compartment under the armrest. if not how hard do you think it would be to make it a remote mount? would i just have a metal shop make some covers for the head and deck? or is it pretty simple to make. thanks and srry. for so many???'s
If its a 560 and you are going to remote mount it, I have one that has a good head, but the scanner is toast, if you want to buy a parts unit with a good head, that way if you ever remove it you can simply plug the original head back in.
Shoot me an email, mine is seperated currently if you need pics of what the head looks like.
Shoot me an email, mine is seperated currently if you need pics of what the head looks like.
Do you have any other radios installed with the ignition sense leads? If so, tap off one of them to power a relay, and run the scanner off the relay.
If nothing else is available, just take a test light and figure out which circuit to tap in the fuse box. I commonly tap off the car radio supply, its ignition switched and turns off when starting, engine cranking, to protect the radio. And use that to turn on and off an accessory relay which then powers accessories and radios that don't have an ignition sense available.
Make sure to fuse the line from the fuse box to the relay if you do that, and fuse the battery power to the relay.
If nothing else is available, just take a test light and figure out which circuit to tap in the fuse box. I commonly tap off the car radio supply, its ignition switched and turns off when starting, engine cranking, to protect the radio. And use that to turn on and off an accessory relay which then powers accessories and radios that don't have an ignition sense available.
Make sure to fuse the line from the fuse box to the relay if you do that, and fuse the battery power to the relay.
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- Posts: 1477
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- What radios do you own?: AM/FM
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- Posts: 1477
- Joined: Sat Nov 29, 2003 10:10 pm
- What radios do you own?: AM/FM
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- Posts: 1477
- Joined: Sat Nov 29, 2003 10:10 pm
- What radios do you own?: AM/FM
[glasses mode - on]
ok, so depending on your ability w/ a soldering iron, you could remote that. the connector on the left is just a simple splicing of wires in after you cut behind that white (?) connector, and as for the ribbon cable on the left....i'd go to an electronics store and buy a compatible combination of ends for that one and make my own patch cable for it to go the distance. It's a hackup job just to make it not so much of a remote mount, but more like a "it's all together, just in two places" type install. i know we have a place right down the street that sells generic ribbon cable connectors that would slide right in....or if you really wanted to get ghetto with it, you could carefully slice that ribbon cable up...and handsplice all the wires into a nice length of cat5 and do it like that....
just some ideas...
and that's not a REAL deep unit, do you HAVE to remote it? it's only like 6 inches deep!
ok, so depending on your ability w/ a soldering iron, you could remote that. the connector on the left is just a simple splicing of wires in after you cut behind that white (?) connector, and as for the ribbon cable on the left....i'd go to an electronics store and buy a compatible combination of ends for that one and make my own patch cable for it to go the distance. It's a hackup job just to make it not so much of a remote mount, but more like a "it's all together, just in two places" type install. i know we have a place right down the street that sells generic ribbon cable connectors that would slide right in....or if you really wanted to get ghetto with it, you could carefully slice that ribbon cable up...and handsplice all the wires into a nice length of cat5 and do it like that....
just some ideas...
and that's not a REAL deep unit, do you HAVE to remote it? it's only like 6 inches deep!
yep that is a white connector. Im not sure of anystores that would sell ribbon cables like that? maybe ill make it ghetto lol. Yes i have to remote it i want to put it in the compartment under the armrest and it just isn't deep enough. BTW: does anyone know whats under that part of the center console in a stick? If not ill have to figure out. i also need to figure out how to get the wires from there and for the power to under the seat without it looking like crap. also does anyone else have recommendations for an antenna? brand?
ok for antennas should i go with a 1/4 wave vhf antenna or a 5/8 wave vhf antenna or something else? also im not gonna drill the roof but have been reading on how to install a nmo mount and am confused. some people say drill it with a unibit, some say drill it with a hole saw and others say punch it. so what should one do to put in an nmo mount. also is there a good site that exlains in detail how to put in an nmo mount? thanks
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in what kind of truck???crazyboy wrote:BTW: does anyone know whats under that part of the center console in a stick?
telepathically - i'd say.... probably a little framework made of lightgage steel, some wiring in black looms, some dust, old cheetos and air.
put them under the rug, or under a moulding in the car. or hide them with the power seat wires, or anything else...seek, and ye shall find.crazyboy wrote:If not ill have to figure out. i also need to figure out how to get the wires from there and for the power to under the seat without it looking like crap.
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I "remoted" a Pro-2006 once. It worked like a champ. I've since put it back to original. It had about 53 connections that had to be made between the head and the radio, so I had to make a cable. I used 25 pair phone wire and added two shielded 3 lead cables. I stripped the 25 pair wire and took out what I didn't need and shrink-wrapped the whole thing. All in all, it was about 8 feet of cable. I made the backs out of plastic from a local hobby shop and used this liquid weld stuff for plastic. I spray painted them to match the color of the scanner. It was in my car for a few years until I gave the car to my ex-wife. Here's a picture of the cable.crazyboy wrote:what kind of wire should i use to connect the radio and the head together for a remote mount? and how should i connect it to the head and radio? thanks

Scott
KE4FHH
Religion: Kills folks dead!
KE4FHH
Religion: Kills folks dead!
Just to add to this, make sure you use shielded cable for at least the volume control wires. These are probably the left three wires on the left connector in the photo, but I can't be sure. A pretty standard uniden setup for that connector is the two innermost wires being the power switch, and the outer 3 on each side being the volume and squelch control wires. The two outermost wires being grounds for the control pots. Don't hold me to this, but this has been the way many of the unidens are setup (I've never seen the inside of that specific radio).
Just something to help get you started. Good Luck.
-Jim
Just something to help get you started. Good Luck.
-Jim
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The "hole" antenna connector is known as a "Motorola" connector. You can get them at Radio Shack.
You will still want to have the volume/squelch wires in a shielded environment. That's why I made my own cable. There was absolutely no interference in my setup.
Good luck!
You will still want to have the volume/squelch wires in a shielded environment. That's why I made my own cable. There was absolutely no interference in my setup.
Good luck!
Scott
KE4FHH
Religion: Kills folks dead!
KE4FHH
Religion: Kills folks dead!
- RESCUE161
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The thing is, you're going to want those wires (volume/squelch) shielded by themselves and the rest of the wires not in the same shield. You probably won't find a cable like that unless you pay top dollar for it.
You could make your own fairly cheap, or just use a shielded printer cable and not separate the volume/squelch leads. This may or may not cause you problems with interference.
You could make your own fairly cheap, or just use a shielded printer cable and not separate the volume/squelch leads. This may or may not cause you problems with interference.
Scott
KE4FHH
Religion: Kills folks dead!
KE4FHH
Religion: Kills folks dead!