I was going to wait until everything was finished, but I figured, it's far enough along that I should go ahead and post some shots of the work (be warned, some of the gear is still in the cheesy "temporary" stage, but most of it is finish grade).
The pictures are all in the gallery on my website (including some video of the lighting):
http://www.akardam.net/?gallery/gallery ... ma_03radio
(Please note: These are all on my server at home, so try and be gentle :)
Finally... some install pics from my Tacoma!
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TravelinMan
- Posts: 12
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jedi_saber
- Batboard $upporter
- Posts: 573
- Joined: Sat Jun 08, 2002 1:09 pm
were those 3 red switches already part of the arrowstick controller or did you custom add them?
Nice install!
Nice install!
Last edited by jedi_saber on Mon Aug 08, 2005 12:31 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Oy! A flurry of questions. Here goes:
I did indeed built the overhead console. I took some pics during the process but unfortunately I don't think I have them anymore. The material is 1/4" single-side-texture black ABS plastic - if you have a TAP plastics or similar, it should be readily available. The two side panels are bolted to the bottom using 1" angle brackets. The whole thing was then cemented together using ABS capilary cement. That stuff's real cool, you apply it with a syringe type device, and it just gets sucked into the joint, and fuses the plastic together.
I guess I should clarify about the radio/battery box - unless I unwire a bunch of stuff, it is more or less permanent. The reason everything is quick disconnect is so that if I needed to remove the camper shell temporarily, I could just undo everything, and stick a couple mag mounts on the roof, while still having them connect to the radio box, etc.
The three switches in the TADCTL1 head are options. See here:
http://www.kdlighting.com/traffic_whltad8.php
You can add on-off, on-off-on, or momentary switches in any combination. Each of those switches are on-off and run one of the side or forward light banks.
Hopefully that answers the questions. Any others, please don't hesitate to ask.
I did indeed built the overhead console. I took some pics during the process but unfortunately I don't think I have them anymore. The material is 1/4" single-side-texture black ABS plastic - if you have a TAP plastics or similar, it should be readily available. The two side panels are bolted to the bottom using 1" angle brackets. The whole thing was then cemented together using ABS capilary cement. That stuff's real cool, you apply it with a syringe type device, and it just gets sucked into the joint, and fuses the plastic together.
I guess I should clarify about the radio/battery box - unless I unwire a bunch of stuff, it is more or less permanent. The reason everything is quick disconnect is so that if I needed to remove the camper shell temporarily, I could just undo everything, and stick a couple mag mounts on the roof, while still having them connect to the radio box, etc.
The three switches in the TADCTL1 head are options. See here:
http://www.kdlighting.com/traffic_whltad8.php
You can add on-off, on-off-on, or momentary switches in any combination. Each of those switches are on-off and run one of the side or forward light banks.
Hopefully that answers the questions. Any others, please don't hesitate to ask.
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ILuvXMRadio
- Posts: 228
- Joined: Tue Jun 21, 2005 1:50 am
- What radios do you own?: Plenty
Hey akardam im curious what kinda work you do with your lights. When I recover here from my operation...going to be a while I know but Im also going to be installing Amber Tier 3's in my Accords Front Grill...going to be a nice Hidden install. I also have some amber led's they look like amber running lights but they are amber block lights im going to be installing in the front next to my Fog lights...yea I know its a honda accord and its going to be looking pretty slick when I get up and around again.
Ah, my good friend, that was what lead you into error! The camper shell is a Tradesman commercial grade shell, and it's fabricated entirely from aluminum. The shell is clamped onto the bed by 4 large metal clamps, plus grounded to frame with two braided ground straps.va3wxm wrote:Not sure if it was mentioned but what do you use for a counterpoise? I ASSume the cap shell isn't metal.
I was quite happy to discover that when we swept the antennas, the 1/4 wave UHF spikes were 1:1 across 440-470, and all the other antennas were no more than 1.5:1 across their respective bands.
But boy was that sucker expensive...
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chipjumper
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- What radios do you own?: XTS5000 for work