Antenna and Power Questions

neo2199a · Post by **neo2199a** » Mon Mar 20, 2006 5:51 am

I have been reading through these message boards for a while, and have finially worked up the courage to post these questions. I'm not looking to get flamed because "hes just a security guard, he doesn't need this stuff" but I am curious as to how professional installers route antenna wiring and lightbar wiring from the rooftop into the vehicle. Obviously its a hole in the roof, but what pillar does the wiring typically go down? Which pillar is easiest if any? Also, whats the best way to route power from the battery to the passenger compartment?

Again, I'm not looking to be flamed here, I'm looking for help. This is not for my personal vehicle, but for a company vehicle which I have done repairs on and they are looking to upgrade and want my .02 I will accept whatever advise you have, just don't tear me down like you do everyone else for "being a whacker".

NCSHP311 · Post by **NCSHP311** » Mon Mar 20, 2006 7:34 am

I know lightbar wire and antenna wire from my experience is easiest to run down the A pilar. Your best bes to get power in the cab is to look on the firewall for exsiting cables going through with enough room from your power cable.

tvsjr · Post by **tvsjr** » Mon Mar 20, 2006 8:49 am

Whoa, dude... you think of us a bit too negatively. Most of us have no problem with security guards... now, if you tell us that you've got a Whelen Freedom on your POV that's amber except for a few reds you snuck in, and a hidden siren so you can look like Teh Police, it's a different story.

First, tell us what kind of vehicle you're working on... you'll find lots of experience on all sorts of different vehicles here.

For the lightbar harness, it really boils down to whatever pillar is easier. Personally, I do all of my power distribution, switching, etc. in the rear of my vehicle (2005 F-350 with commercial Knapheide topper) to make maintenance easier, so I'd take the lightbar cable down the rear pillar. If you're going for a simpler install with power distro inside a console up front, coming down the passenger side A pillar and across. I wouldn't come down the driver's A pillar, as you've got lots of vehicle harnesses, E-brake, maybe clutch, etc. to deal with.

For power, look at the firewall and try to find existing holes. In my current truck, I'm using a 2.5" hole that was made for the stick-shift to run my cabling through (1/0ga. power x2, 6 4-conductor LED cables, etc.) Post your vehicle type, one of us may have dealt with one before.

neo2199a · Post by **neo2199a** » Tue Mar 21, 2006 1:32 am

tvsjr wrote:Whoa, dude... you think of us a bit too negatively. Most of us have no problem with security guards... now, if you tell us that you've got a Whelen Freedom on your POV that's amber except for a few reds you snuck in, and a hidden siren so you can look like Teh Police, it's a different story.

First, tell us what kind of vehicle you're working on... you'll find lots of experience on all sorts of different vehicles here.

For the lightbar harness, it really boils down to whatever pillar is easier. Personally, I do all of my power distribution, switching, etc. in the rear of my vehicle (2005 F-350 with commercial Knapheide topper) to make maintenance easier, so I'd take the lightbar cable down the rear pillar. If you're going for a simpler install with power distro inside a console up front, coming down the passenger side A pillar and across. I wouldn't come down the driver's A pillar, as you've got lots of vehicle harnesses, E-brake, maybe clutch, etc. to deal with.

For power, look at the firewall and try to find existing holes. In my current truck, I'm using a 2.5" hole that was made for the stick-shift to run my cabling through (1/0ga. power x2, 6 4-conductor LED cables, etc.) Post your vehicle type, one of us may have dealt with one before.

My apoligies about the thinking negativly, but as you said "Most of us have no problem with security guards..." but there are the few that do. I have read many a flames on here and was not looking to get nailed by the same people...what do you call them...the "light police".

As for my POV, no, I do not have a hidden siren to look like the police. I will admit, I have a lightbar on my POV. It is all amber (no sneaky reds), and no, its not to look like the police. I had this lightbar on the vehicle long before I became a guard, for the following reason. I have the lightbar on top so I can stop to help disabled vehicles on the side of the road. There is, as far as I have found, no laws against it here. I have stopped at many an accident scene to help out injured people (CPR/First Aid Certified) and keep traffic flowing as much as I can. I have received many a thanks from Snohomish County Sheriff and other LEA in the area for my help on scene. So there is a valid and good reason as to the lightbar on my vehicle.

The vehicle in question is, don't laugh, a 1995 Buick Skylark. If anyone has done work on these vehicles in the past and happens to have any install pictures or insight to this particular vehicle, I would be more interested to talk with you about it. We have not decided on a lightbar for the vehicle yet, other than color. We are going to be throwing a Motorola Radius M1225 35watt radio in the UHF range. This will interface with our building installed repeater system. As for type of antenna, or antenna location, that has not been decided. We have another M1225 installed in the Company Facility Service Truck and are quite happy with it, which is why we're going for another one for the security vehicle.

Again, any insight into this would be great. Like I mentioned in the original post, they're looking to me for advise, but the vibe I got today gave me the feeling I'll be doing the install, which I will do if they ask, but I will do my research and do it right. Thats why I'm here. So please, any help towards all aspects of install work would be great. Thanks again for your time and I apoligise again for the original negative attitude.

va3wxm · Post by **va3wxm** » Tue Mar 21, 2006 5:25 am

Can't really help you with the lights but for the radio gear a UHF antenna works best on the roof.

Preferably a permanent NMO mount.

thebigphish · Post by **thebigphish** » Tue Mar 21, 2006 11:19 am

neo2199a wrote:I have read many a flames on here and was not looking to get nailed by the same people...what do you call them...the "light police".

The phrase "light police" comes from some ignorant fools who think that they know all the laws in all the lands, and declare themselves the first and foremost sources on what lights you can show and how you can show them. As so many of us are fond of saying...go to your local LEO and ask them for clarification as to what you can show, and how you can show it and you will get the most accurate information.

and if you get nailed by the "light police" here? Who cares man, just consider the source...we just ignore them.

neo2199a · Post by **neo2199a** » Wed Mar 22, 2006 2:45 am

Thanks for all the support and clarification, however, I don't suppose we could get back to my original questions as my boss is getting impatient waiting for my .02

Birken Vogt · Post by **Birken Vogt** » Thu Mar 23, 2006 6:39 am

The answer is pretty simple, "whatever works" if the radios/controls are in the front then I typically go down the A post, under the seat I might go down the B post but then again I might still go down the A post and run the cables through the floor gutter thing (the plastic part you step on to get in has a nice concealed space usually) if the radios are in the back then I might go down the C post. One time I did a cell install on a vehicle that had air bags all over the place, the only way I could do that one was to drill the antenna in the back and run it down the D post I guess you'd call it, all the way up to the dash along the floor gutters, took about 30' of cable if I recall.

Sometimes you can do your routing just by pulling the metal/rubber weatherseals and tucking the cables in behind that, other times you are better off pulling the actual plastic and tucking/taping cables in there, it all depends on a great number of factors. But it is pretty easy work really.

Birken

eboe · Post by **eboe** » Thu Mar 23, 2006 7:23 am

if you can't find an existing hole in the firewall and you do have to drill your own, just be really sure what's on the other side. ...and don't forget to use a rubber grommet to protect the wires from the sharp edges of the metal. a 1/4 wave NMO permanent mount antenna near the center of the roof will give you the best results. get one that has a bandwidth that covers the frequency you're using. (ie: 450-470 MHz) after the install, you can have a radio shop check the SWR and trim the antenna length to match the exact frequency you're using. ...or you can also get satisfactory results by using the trim-chart supplied with the antenna. (if you don't get one, the mfg. can supply it on request.) you can run the antenna wire right down the a-pillar (by the windshield) and end up right behind the dash. try to avoid sharp edges and don't kink the antenna wire. if you don't have an antenna connection crimping tool, make sure you get an antenna that has the proper connector already attached to the wire. that should be a regular f-connector for the m1225.