I have a Saber 3 VHF and the antenna jack has some minor play in it. Can someone tell me how to tighten it up.
Thanks
Saber Antenna Jack
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Tom in D.C.
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Tighten a Saber antenna connector...
I've never encountered this problem but judging by the
four "slots" on the connector it might be able to be
tightened by using a spanner wrench or a needlenose
pliers with small tips. It's worth a try as oppsed to taking
the top of the radio apart which would be a major task.
four "slots" on the connector it might be able to be
tightened by using a spanner wrench or a needlenose
pliers with small tips. It's worth a try as oppsed to taking
the top of the radio apart which would be a major task.
Tom in D.C.
In 1920, the U.S. Post Office Department ruled
that children may not be sent by parcel post.
In 1920, the U.S. Post Office Department ruled
that children may not be sent by parcel post.
Tom is correct, just use a spanner wrench or a needle nose, that's what i always use since i can never find the spanner when i need it.
Just don't go hog wild, snug it up a bit and leave it alone.
Just don't go hog wild, snug it up a bit and leave it alone.
Duct tape is like the force, it has a dark side and a light side and it holds the universe together.
"I Reject Your Reality And Substitute My Own!" - Adam Savage
"I Reject Your Reality And Substitute My Own!" - Adam Savage
Try removing the spanner nut completely and making sure everything is clean, use a small brush or an old toothbrush to get any crud out of there and try again.
The jack goes in from the bottom and just has a washer and the spanner nut on top to hold it tight. If you leave it loose you could have problems with reception or high SWR for the final since the pin on the bottom of the jack wil be wiggling around in the contact that makes the connection to it.
Removing the top of a Saber isn't that bad but not for the faint of heart. You have to remove the top escutcheon and the nuts on the volume and channel select, if it's a secure capable then you also have to remove the bat switch, then inside you need to remove the modules and mainboard to get to the two screws holding the top plate to the metal frame on the side of the antenna jack.
The jack goes in from the bottom and just has a washer and the spanner nut on top to hold it tight. If you leave it loose you could have problems with reception or high SWR for the final since the pin on the bottom of the jack wil be wiggling around in the contact that makes the connection to it.
Removing the top of a Saber isn't that bad but not for the faint of heart. You have to remove the top escutcheon and the nuts on the volume and channel select, if it's a secure capable then you also have to remove the bat switch, then inside you need to remove the modules and mainboard to get to the two screws holding the top plate to the metal frame on the side of the antenna jack.
Duct tape is like the force, it has a dark side and a light side and it holds the universe together.
"I Reject Your Reality And Substitute My Own!" - Adam Savage
"I Reject Your Reality And Substitute My Own!" - Adam Savage
Controls top removal....
Sabers are 'fairly' simple to remove the controls top on, there are 4 screws that are located in 4 corners of the plastic, but you need to remove the receiver module as well as the reference oscillator, then the FDS and 2-pole filter to gain access to the screws with a SMALL philips driver, and they are angled and NOT simple to get the tip into at times.
Watch out for the LED light guide, it will fall out and get lost if you flip off the top too fast, it's tiny, and clear plastic and should have a tiny red 'O' ring around it as well.
The ribbon flex/header is connected to the controls top, that MUST be removed before you attempt to remove the top panel.
Lift straight up and do not bend or angle the header or pin damage will occur.
I use a pair of Hemostats/forceps to grasp the plastic body, but file down the jaws first to prevent possible damage to the traces that are etched on the kapton film.
Performing this operation in addition to removing the knobs will give you clear access to the antenna stud (Which is nothing more than a hex 'nut' that's not easy to get a tool around).
You should be able to tighten the outer nut with a large blade screwdriver that will span across two of the slots on the nut so you don't have to chew it up using needle nosed pliers or an Arkansas 'fits-all' tool (slip joint pliers).
The entire disassembly should take you about 10 minutes really, maybe 15....but much longer if you lose that light guide on the carpet*chuckle*.
Sabers are 'fairly' simple to remove the controls top on, there are 4 screws that are located in 4 corners of the plastic, but you need to remove the receiver module as well as the reference oscillator, then the FDS and 2-pole filter to gain access to the screws with a SMALL philips driver, and they are angled and NOT simple to get the tip into at times.
Watch out for the LED light guide, it will fall out and get lost if you flip off the top too fast, it's tiny, and clear plastic and should have a tiny red 'O' ring around it as well.
The ribbon flex/header is connected to the controls top, that MUST be removed before you attempt to remove the top panel.
Lift straight up and do not bend or angle the header or pin damage will occur.
I use a pair of Hemostats/forceps to grasp the plastic body, but file down the jaws first to prevent possible damage to the traces that are etched on the kapton film.
Performing this operation in addition to removing the knobs will give you clear access to the antenna stud (Which is nothing more than a hex 'nut' that's not easy to get a tool around).
You should be able to tighten the outer nut with a large blade screwdriver that will span across two of the slots on the nut so you don't have to chew it up using needle nosed pliers or an Arkansas 'fits-all' tool (slip joint pliers).
The entire disassembly should take you about 10 minutes really, maybe 15....but much longer if you lose that light guide on the carpet*chuckle*.