FT-857 installation advice please, 2002 Dodge Ram 1500

[TacComm]

Hello...

I recently purchased an FT-857 (Yaesu amateur rig) to install in my Dodge Ram. I did a search on here before posting this, but all that came up was a thread where someone used sticky tape to mount his Spectra remote head and all hell broke loose. There will be no sticky tape in this installation, for what it's worth.

One thing that is clear is that it would be best to ask for advice before starting on this, hence this thread. I have the "separation kit" which consists of three cables -- one with an RJ-45 jack, one with an RJ-11 jack and the speaker cable. It also came with a plastic plate which the head unit snaps onto.

Here are my thoughts on this, so far...I've pretty much decided to mount the radio itself under the passenger seat. The antenna is an ATAS 120A which tunes automatically with this radio. It will be mounted on the front-most stake hole pocket on the passenger side using this mount - http://www.geotool.com/antmount.htm.

I need to get power to the radio under the passenger seat and need to run cables from there up to where I'm going to mount the control head. I was planning on placing the control head to the left of the stereo on the dash. I can take pictures of this area and post them later...reason I'd like it up high is to minimize having to look down to adjust the radio. I know ideally I should stop the vehicle to make any adjustments, but for glancing up there to make note of the mode or frequency I think it would be safest up high. The only thing that concerns me in doing that is the .5 inch hole needed for the RJ-45 plug. I suppose I could just cut the connector off, pull the cable through the smaller hole, then install a new connector, but...I'm not sure if that's a good idea. Also, while I have a crimper for RJ-45 jacks, I don't think I have a die for RJ-11 jacks (nor RJ-11 jacks, for that matter) either.

I would rather not mount an external speaker, so was thinking of getting an aux input for the stereo to run the audio into.

Any constructive thoughts on this are much appreciated...

BT

[TacComm]

Thanks for all the help. Guess I'll do it however the hell I want to then.

BT

[thebigphish]

Hello...
I recently purchased an FT-857 (Yaesu amateur rig) to install in my Dodge Ram. I did a search on here before posting this, but all that came up was a thread where someone used sticky tape to mount his Spectra remote head and all hell broke loose. There will be no sticky tape in this installation, for what it's worth.

(puts away blackjack) ok, that's good.

I need to get power to the radio under the passenger seat and need to run cables from there up to where I'm going to mount the control head. I was planning on placing the control head to the left of the stereo on the dash. I can take pictures of this area and post them later...reason I'd like it up high is to minimize having to look down to adjust the radio. I know ideally I should stop the vehicle to make any adjustments, but for glancing up there to make note of the mode or frequency I think it would be safest up high. The only thing that concerns me in doing that is the .5 inch hole needed for the RJ-45 plug. I suppose I could just cut the connector off, pull the cable through the smaller hole, then install a new connector, but...I'm not sure if that's a good idea. Also, while I have a crimper for RJ-45 jacks, I don't think I have a die for RJ-11 jacks (nor RJ-11 jacks, for that matter) either.

I'll be real honest with you, wires that small can be end run around pieces of moulding and behind things, and you can probably tuck the wires in behind a trim panel, or behind a removable piece of trim and pull it around the end...much easier than punching a hole in one. The hole is overkill. Why bother if you don't have a die for RJ-11 (i found cheapo crimpers that do both, if you don't have the money or need for a good set of compression crimpers)

I would rather not mount an external speaker, so was thinking of getting an aux input for the stereo to run the audio into

don't waste your time. put a little speaker next to your remoted base, don't even BOTHER with an aux audio input on a stereo, i've prattled on about that in other threads before, i can rehash in a PM if you want

[thebigphish]

Thanks for all the help. Guess I'll do it however the hell I want to then.

BT

it is YOUR truck, afterall.

[TacComm]

Thanks for all the help. Guess I'll do it however the hell I want to then.

BT

it is YOUR truck, afterall.

Well, I posted that because there were 77 views at the time and no replies...thought all the "experts" would have advice and was puzzled at the lack of replies. That said, I sincerely appreciate your comments and will try to incorporate your advice in the install. Curious though...what would be wrong with the aux input? Does the audio just sound really crappy that way? I missed that before...please PM if you'd rather not rehash it here...

Thanks again...

BT

[K4RXR]

put a little speaker next to your remoted base...

I have been sorely disappointed with the small external speakers I've been seeing at hamfests. They must be building these things with high frequency drivers because they sound very tinny to my ears. Unfortunately, this seems to be an area where bigger really is better. A regular-size external speaker (4 or 5 inches square) may be a PITA to mount, but I think it'll sound better than the small speakers I've found so far.

Bob...

[tvsjr]

The only "little" speaker worth its salt is the Motorola compact speaker sold for the GM300 line. Also known as the Kenwood KES-3. They're about $40/ea., but they perform damn well for being small. I've got probably 3 dozen in use across two trucks and home.

[K4RXR]

I have some speakers like the KES-3 and they do pretty well. Some of them I thought came from old Motorola cellphone car kits. I'd like to find a couple more as the smaller ones are crap.

Bob...

[thebigphish]

TacComm...here is that thread i was talking about

there was a site posted after my last post about a cell site or something with some intriguing products in its line, maybe something like this would work...but at least peruse the thread.
[/url]

[Will]

I do find the 857 and 897 have a simple single ended audio output chip and need a 4 ohm speaker for best volume in a mobile.

I had an 8 ohm /\/\ cell phone hands free speaker, simmular to the ones mentioned, and was not happy with the volume. Changed to a 4 ohm'er, same style case, and works great. FT897D

The "control cable" from the radio to the head can be run under the carpet or so up to the dash. Just stay away from the car/truck's main cabling so as to not pick up noise in the control cable.

[TacComm]

Ok, that is all great information. Thanks so much for the links and info.

So...it looks like what might be best is to pick up a nice 4-ohm speaker and maybe mount it on the rear bulkhead on the carpeted piece of fiberboard there. Easy to run the wire for that one too and maybe won't look that bad. (I have a single-cab full-size truck)...

Thanks again...I appreciate the helpful responses!

[TacComm]

Ok, the project has been on hold as I was awaiting the stake hole mount for the antenna. That was a royal PITFA, btw...but that's a story for another time. HUGE PITA.

Anyway, antenna has been installed (Yaesu ATAS120) and I received +20db over S9 on 20m last night, so I think I'm good there. Flat SWR on all bands it is made for.

Now I'm looking at mounting the radio under the passenger seat and getting an external speaker.

For mounting the radio, I tend to prefer nuts/bolts (nylon insert lock nuts) but the place I was wanting to put the radio, it doesn't look like I'll have access under the truck to put the nuts on there. So...I haven't used self-tapping sheet metal screws before for this application, but is this an option? Has anyone else used them? Sorry if this is a stupid question. I don't want this to be a hack job.

For the speaker, I read above where I should use a 4-ohm speaker. I am planning on mounting the speaker in the spot where the ashtray assembly used to be. (There is just a hole there now...no door, ashtray, etc.) I can make an adapter bracket if the bracket the speaker comes with is a different width. Anyone have good luck with any particular brands? I looked at the KES-3 but couldn't find much info on it...it looks pretty big. Is it 4-ohm impedance?

Sorry for the potentially stupid questions...thanks for the help so far...

[StanComm]

TacComm,

Sheetmetal screws will do fine, however you need to take a few things into consideration.

1) The padding under the carpet/floor mat. That stuff will wrap iteslf around the screw as you're trying to drill it into place. It'll also grab a drill bit with equal tenacity, like ballistic nylon. The drill will usually stall or you'll pull a portion of the padding loose and it'll still gum up the threads. Either way it's a loose-loose situation.
Best way I've found to deal with this is to find a couple of 5/16" (or 3/8") x 2" long OD roll pins. Chuck'em into your drill and sharpen one end with either a large drill bit or a counter sink. (You want to sharpen them from the inside diameter so the sharp edge is at the outside diameter.) Use a vise to hold the drill or counter sink in place. Then use the pin like a drill bit to cut through the mat and the padding. Run it through the mat all the way down to the metal. It'll cut a nice hole through the mat and greatly reduce the chance of the padding getting into the act and ruining the show.

2) On uneven floor surfaces, it's usually better to predrill the screw hole, even if you're using sheet metal screws. Less chance of the screw slipping around on the metal floor... gives a bit better control of where the screws will eventually be set. You can make a slightly smaller hole and let the screw force it's way through the sheet. It makes for a little better grab of the screw threads, less chance it'll pull out or vibrate loose. Just put a little rust proofing goo on the screw tip for some lubrication.

3) Once you've set the screws, get underneath the vehicle and shoot some undercoating or other protectant on the penetrations. The bright plating on those screws will not stand up to salt, etc. I've seen screws which after five years of up-north road salt look like tooth picks, with the vehicle's sheet steel turning into lace around them.

And, be wary of stainless hardware! I've seen some screws that come with the "L" shaped antenna brackets that are butter soft. The sheet metal will strip the threads right off the nose of them and they'll not cut into the sheet unless you predrill a very sloppy hole for them to thread into.

Hope this helps!

Stan

[High_order1]

Best way I've found to deal with this is to find a couple of 5/16" (or 3/8") x 2" long OD roll pins.

What an excellent idea. I like it when you even try to presplit with a knife and STILL wind up pulling a thread four foot long across the carpet...


-Shawn

[Will]

Stan, Great idea. Best thing I have heard since the stepped punch that Motorola sold many years ago.

The part number on my FT897D's woofer is SSN4005A (Motorola part#).
Verry simular to the external speaker for the Maxtrac.

[spareparts]

Sheetmetal screws will do fine, however you need to take a few things into consideration.

1) The padding under the carpet/floor mat. That stuff will wrap iteslf around the screw as you're trying to drill it into place. It'll also grab a drill bit with equal tenacity, like ballistic nylon. The drill will usually stall or you'll pull a portion of the padding loose and it'll still gum up the threads. Either way it's a loose-loose situation.

I was lucky enough to find a of set of round punches for carpet made by CS Osborne at a garage sale. http://www.csosborne.com/nok245.htm . Clears the carpet & pad, center punch & drill. No pain, no fuss.