AS1 CHANGE CASE
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- Posts: 1652
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- What radios do you own?: APX XTS XTL TRBO 900MHZ
AS1 CHANGE CASE
Hello. While I've opened up many Jedi's in my day, I've never opened a Saber. I just received a fresh case for my AS1. Seems to be easy enough. Is there a special screw driver needed? Thanks. GARY N4KVE
You'll need a spanner bit for the bottom housing nuts. I don't remember what size. I just went down and bought a cheap stubby flat blade and used the dremel to notch out the end of it. Works much better than the hex-driver spanner bits I've seen elsewhere.
Once you've got them loose (but not to the point where they pop out of their retainers), use the anntenna as a handle (yes, Moto actually recommends this), and gently but firmly pull the radio guts upward out of the housing.
Once you've got them loose (but not to the point where they pop out of their retainers), use the anntenna as a handle (yes, Moto actually recommends this), and gently but firmly pull the radio guts upward out of the housing.
- Tom in D.C.
- Posts: 3859
- Joined: Tue Sep 04, 2001 4:00 pm
- What radios do you own?: Progreso soup can with CRT
Opening any Saber case...
...and DO NOT push any of the side buttons as you
pull the chassis out of the case!!!
pull the chassis out of the case!!!
Tom in D.C.
In 1920, the U.S. Post Office Department ruled
that children may not be sent by parcel post.
In 1920, the U.S. Post Office Department ruled
that children may not be sent by parcel post.
- fogster
- Posts: 386
- Joined: Sun Nov 06, 2005 10:38 am
- What radios do you own?: XTS2500/5000, XPR7550/5550
For what it's worth, you don't need a spanner bit, although it's certainly a good idea to get one. I've had luck using small screwdrivers, the tip of a (preferably blunt) knife, etc. to open it. As long as you're not careless, it works just as well.
It wasn't immediately obvious my first time, but the accessory port cover (if any radios even have them anymore) will keep the case from being removed, so take that off first.
You're probably aware by this point, but just for the record, you don't need (or want) to remove any of the Phillips head screws holding the battery plate on. It stays on the case as you remove the chassis. You just loosen the two spanner nuts until they turn freely. And, while it sounds awful, they recommend you pull by the antenna.
Unless, of course, you want to remove the battery plate... In which case it's exactly as it would appear, but one important note: be careful! You'll have lots of small parts fall out, including the little screws holding the contacts in place and the spring latch on the radio, which has a little curved metal piece underneath. I only mention it because it's a major pain to find if it falls on the floor!
It wasn't immediately obvious my first time, but the accessory port cover (if any radios even have them anymore) will keep the case from being removed, so take that off first.
You're probably aware by this point, but just for the record, you don't need (or want) to remove any of the Phillips head screws holding the battery plate on. It stays on the case as you remove the chassis. You just loosen the two spanner nuts until they turn freely. And, while it sounds awful, they recommend you pull by the antenna.
Unless, of course, you want to remove the battery plate... In which case it's exactly as it would appear, but one important note: be careful! You'll have lots of small parts fall out, including the little screws holding the contacts in place and the spring latch on the radio, which has a little curved metal piece underneath. I only mention it because it's a major pain to find if it falls on the floor!
