Alternator whine repair

[n3chu]

Hi all, what is the standard fix for alternator whine on a lowband Syntor-x(on 6M and 10M). Its in the recieve audio when there is a full quieting signal present(not heard otherwise)I usually filter the two "+" wires going into the sys. 90 control head and that usually fixes the problem, didnt have room under the hood for the TLN5277B filter so used a KLF-2 because it fit. it didnt help the whine BUT did fix a whine from the AC fan controller which sounds like a fire sirene(I know thats wrong) so I am needing to know if filtering the Heavy "+" lead going into the remote part of the radio mounted in the trunk?. the radio (in trunk ) is fed with two #2 wires from batt and 40 amp fuse and a stiffining cap mounted near the radio. I dont hear the whine when away from full quieting signals? What have I forgotten to do?. Any help greatly appreciated. thank you. Davie n 3 c h u at atlanticbb.net

[Bat2way]

You can chase these problems all day, just make room for the TLN5277B and call it quits.

[DJP126]

You can chase these problems all day, just make room for the TLN5277B and call it quits.

Or you can do it the hard way and clean ALL of your ground connections of the vehicle (battery to chassis, alternator to chassis, etc, etc, etc...).

[Jim202]

A couple of simple questions.

1. Do you get the whine as loud when the headlights are on?

2. Have you measured the electrical system voltage with no load, headlights on low, headlights on high,
then turn on the air or heater motor on high and measure the voltage at each of the steps with the
engine at an idle. You should be using a digital volt meter to be able to see the minor changes in
the voltage.

3. How old is the auto battery in the vehicle? If it is about 3 years or older, your waisting your time
trying to solve any problems until the battery is replaced. As a battery ages, the internal resistance
goes up and it starts to do strange things. On is to cause alternator whine to cause noise in radios.
Another problem that shows up is the digital clock radio starts to get reset to 12:00 when you start
the engine. This is another sign that the battery is going west.

Jim

Hi all, what is the standard fix for alternator whine on a lowband Syntor-x(on 6M and 10M). Its in the recieve audio when there is a full quieting signal present(not heard otherwise)I usually filter the two "+" wires going into the sys. 90 control head and that usually fixes the problem, didnt have room under the hood for the TLN5277B filter so used a KLF-2 because it fit. it didnt help the whine BUT did fix a whine from the AC fan controller which sounds like a fire sirene(I know thats wrong) so I am needing to know if filtering the Heavy "+" lead going into the remote part of the radio mounted in the trunk?. the radio (in trunk ) is fed with two #2 wires from batt and 40 amp fuse and a stiffining cap mounted near the radio. I dont hear the whine when away from full quieting signals? What have I forgotten to do?. Any help greatly appreciated. thank you. Davie n 3 c h u at atlanticbb.net

[Will]

I will add that the Green lead MUST go direct to the battery.

Also where is your ground/Black lead at the radio connected to?
Any whine on TX?


The Syntor audio amp is only on with a received signal so that is where the alternator noise is getting in.

[n3chu]

I have two what look like welding wires going from the battery to the trunk (where the big part of the radio is)(the wires are as big as your thumb)and about a 1 farad stiffining cap acrossed the two wires at the radio. the voltage with no load after a cold start is about 14.5 volts after running a while it drops back to about 14.2V. havent checked it under full load but with the radio on and AC on its still around 14 V.. Battery is about 1 year old. I am checking it a 6 meters. the car is an 03 VW Passat station wagon.

[WB6NVH]

I could be mistaken but I think the audio power amp on this model radio gets main power via the big red wire rather than what we used to call the 19 + 20 wires (Motrac days...) Thus if there's whine on the audio amp, filtering the orange and green wires wouldn't help.

This probably isn't your problem here, but...I once serviced some high band Syntor X drawers with alternator whine as well as freaky sounding buzzes and wails on received audio, in the background. I traced it to a need for tightening those Torx screws which hold the boards closest to the front power connector at the personality board. The problem was that the bypass capacitors were not getting a good ground in the area where the main cable connector sits in the frame, because the contact is by tension. Wouldn't hurt to check.

[n3chu]

Wish I could varify from someone that the power for the audio amp comes from the large red wire? also turning on the headlights dosent effect the sound of the whine. On the big Mot . filter, how are you supposed to connect to the positive output post?Crimp? I noticed that it is partially threaded on the inside. if it was brass I would solder to it and use shrink tubeing.

[Cowboy]

Wish I could varify from someone that the power for the audio amp comes from the large red wire? also turning on the headlights dosent effect the sound of the whine. On the big Mot . filter, how are you supposed to connect to the positive output post?Crimp? I noticed that it is partially threaded on the inside. if it was brass I would solder to it and use shrink tubeing.

Is that by any chance the same diameter connector as the positive side of say a Spectra high power 12v power cord?

[n3chu]

Just a thought, do they still make new TLN5277Bs and what would one cost me? I have an old rusted up one but would like a newer one and it would be going in the trunk where the radio is so it should last.?? and also can you still get parts for rebuilding one as its 15 years old and the cap could maybe need repaced. Davie n 3 c h u at atlanticbb dot net