Sort of a Moto newb, so please bear with me!
Here's the deal:
I have a VHF Saber III, and a UHF Saber II. I really need a UHF Saber III, and have not much use for the VHF.
Is it possible to swap the RF modules between the radios and just load new codeplugs in, giving me a VHF Saber II and UHF Saber III?
Just curious...
Saber swap
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Tom in D.C.
- Posts: 3859
- Joined: Tue Sep 04, 2001 4:00 pm
- What radios do you own?: Progreso soup can with CRT
Re: Saber swap
Swap the cases and the front shields from the radios; that's all the
hardware swapping involved. There is a procedure for loading in a different
RSS to a Saber at http://www.batlabs.com. Use it carefully, but it does work.
Be careful about the tuning values when setting up the altered radios.
You will have to write or get a new codeplug for the UHF Saber 3. If you get
it from somewhere or someone it will probably already have tuning values
in it. If you write a new one you'll have to put in the tuning values, which
is a huge pain, unless you choose to keep the tuning values already installed
in the UHF radio when you download the new codeplug. Watch out for the
option screen which lets you choose the codeplug values or the values that
are already in the radio.
hardware swapping involved. There is a procedure for loading in a different
RSS to a Saber at http://www.batlabs.com. Use it carefully, but it does work.
Be careful about the tuning values when setting up the altered radios.
You will have to write or get a new codeplug for the UHF Saber 3. If you get
it from somewhere or someone it will probably already have tuning values
in it. If you write a new one you'll have to put in the tuning values, which
is a huge pain, unless you choose to keep the tuning values already installed
in the UHF radio when you download the new codeplug. Watch out for the
option screen which lets you choose the codeplug values or the values that
are already in the radio.
Tom in D.C.
In 1920, the U.S. Post Office Department ruled
that children may not be sent by parcel post.
In 1920, the U.S. Post Office Department ruled
that children may not be sent by parcel post.
Re: Saber swap
Here's the catch with that...
The Saber II (UHF) is a 2K memory model which, if I'm not mistaken, precludes it from DTMF operation, or am I wrong on that one?
The Saber II (UHF) is a 2K memory model which, if I'm not mistaken, precludes it from DTMF operation, or am I wrong on that one?
Re: Saber swap
I think your link provided the answer.
If I read correctly, it doesn't matter if the radio is 2K or not, as the memory is part of the display board of the III that I'm swapping, no?
Thanks for the help, by the way. I read that section, and for some reason it just didn't sink in the first time.
If I read correctly, it doesn't matter if the radio is 2K or not, as the memory is part of the display board of the III that I'm swapping, no?
Thanks for the help, by the way. I read that section, and for some reason it just didn't sink in the first time.
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Tom in D.C.
- Posts: 3859
- Joined: Tue Sep 04, 2001 4:00 pm
- What radios do you own?: Progreso soup can with CRT
Re: Saber swap
You got it right. The 2K, or 8K, memory rides in the shield, so by
changing the shield you change the memory. I know you saw
this spelled out in the Saber section of Batlabs. You'll see that
those LSI chips are easy to identify and count when you get
the shields off the radios.
Regards,
changing the shield you change the memory. I know you saw
this spelled out in the Saber section of Batlabs. You'll see that
those LSI chips are easy to identify and count when you get
the shields off the radios.
Regards,
Tom in D.C.
In 1920, the U.S. Post Office Department ruled
that children may not be sent by parcel post.
In 1920, the U.S. Post Office Department ruled
that children may not be sent by parcel post.
Re: Saber swap
Thanks for all of your help. The only thing I overlooked, which makes this a no-go, is that the VHF is a Systems Saber, instead of a generic Saber III.
Oh well...it was worth a shot!
Oh well...it was worth a shot!
Re: Saber swap
If you want a Saber III front shield assy PM me. I will send you one for $10 shipping and handling USA only. I have been scrapping hundreds of sabers since we have replaced them with XTS5000s.
Re: Saber swap
Thank you all for your help! One final question...
Since I'll be going from a 2K to an 8K radio, it will need a new codeplug that enables 8K features, since the radio has 8K disabled in RSS.
Would it be easier to try and find a Saber III codeplug and load it, or can a new personality with 8K features enabled be created? If so, I'm sure I'll have to note the current radio alignment data.
Since I'll be going from a 2K to an 8K radio, it will need a new codeplug that enables 8K features, since the radio has 8K disabled in RSS.
Would it be easier to try and find a Saber III codeplug and load it, or can a new personality with 8K features enabled be created? If so, I'm sure I'll have to note the current radio alignment data.
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Tom in D.C.
- Posts: 3859
- Joined: Tue Sep 04, 2001 4:00 pm
- What radios do you own?: Progreso soup can with CRT
Re: Saber swap
One of the great things about standard Sabers is that you can create a codeplug from
scratch without first having to download a plug from an existing radio. However, when
you set up the new codeplug the factory ID number must match the factory ID of the
actual radio codeplug you want to create. You find the various factory ID numbers in the RSS, as well as whether the radio is secure or non-secure, and the type of keypad in use. Here's the key to choosing the right numbers:
Typical factory ID number: H44SAK7139CN or H44QXK7139CN
H applies to all units
3 or 4 is low or high power
3 or 4 is VHF or UHF
S or Q is non-securenet or securenet (Y is water/weatherproof; ignore it)
A or X is non-securenet or securenet (changes to B on waterproof radio)
Third Letter:
N is Saber 1
G is Saber 1-E (24 channel Saber 1, two zones)
J is Saber 2
K is Saber 3
Note: Third letter is same for both standard and Securenet radios
7139 is same on all radios.
C means the radio will scan; applies only to 2 and 3 models but is also used on 1
models and means nothing; a Saber 1 will not scan. B or A in place of the C is a
rare form of early model Saber that will NOT scan regardless of model.
N means nothing.
So, your UHF Saber should turn out to be either an H44SAK7139CN (or H34... if it's
a low-power radio), or an H44QXK7139CN (or H34... if it's a low-power radio). One
of these factory IDs is the one you have to find in the setup menu when you create
the new UHF codeplug.
Before you change the shield on the UHF Saber, read the radio and copy down all of
the tuning values now in that radio. When you write the new Saber 3 UHF codeplug, put
those tuning values in the new codeplug. Any minor differences can be tweaked later
but you'll have a codeplug that will work fine when you first turn on the Saber 3 with
the new codeplug in it. The tuning values have to do with power output, mic gain,
deviation, etc. and are not related to the memory arrangement/size of the radio so if
the UHF radio now works okay those same tuning values should be okay on the "new"
Saber 3.
scratch without first having to download a plug from an existing radio. However, when
you set up the new codeplug the factory ID number must match the factory ID of the
actual radio codeplug you want to create. You find the various factory ID numbers in the RSS, as well as whether the radio is secure or non-secure, and the type of keypad in use. Here's the key to choosing the right numbers:
Typical factory ID number: H44SAK7139CN or H44QXK7139CN
H applies to all units
3 or 4 is low or high power
3 or 4 is VHF or UHF
S or Q is non-securenet or securenet (Y is water/weatherproof; ignore it)
A or X is non-securenet or securenet (changes to B on waterproof radio)
Third Letter:
N is Saber 1
G is Saber 1-E (24 channel Saber 1, two zones)
J is Saber 2
K is Saber 3
Note: Third letter is same for both standard and Securenet radios
7139 is same on all radios.
C means the radio will scan; applies only to 2 and 3 models but is also used on 1
models and means nothing; a Saber 1 will not scan. B or A in place of the C is a
rare form of early model Saber that will NOT scan regardless of model.
N means nothing.
So, your UHF Saber should turn out to be either an H44SAK7139CN (or H34... if it's
a low-power radio), or an H44QXK7139CN (or H34... if it's a low-power radio). One
of these factory IDs is the one you have to find in the setup menu when you create
the new UHF codeplug.
Before you change the shield on the UHF Saber, read the radio and copy down all of
the tuning values now in that radio. When you write the new Saber 3 UHF codeplug, put
those tuning values in the new codeplug. Any minor differences can be tweaked later
but you'll have a codeplug that will work fine when you first turn on the Saber 3 with
the new codeplug in it. The tuning values have to do with power output, mic gain,
deviation, etc. and are not related to the memory arrangement/size of the radio so if
the UHF radio now works okay those same tuning values should be okay on the "new"
Saber 3.
Tom in D.C.
In 1920, the U.S. Post Office Department ruled
that children may not be sent by parcel post.
In 1920, the U.S. Post Office Department ruled
that children may not be sent by parcel post.
Re: Saber swap
The front shield that you receive from me will be programmed with a non secure UHF most likely or VHF 5D code plug. Most are 440 UHF.
Re: Saber swap
Perfect!
Thank you guys so much for your help! I have to say, the Saber is hands-down the best radio I've ever owned. I'm real excited now, because I'll finally be able to use the controller on my repeater since I'll have DTMF capabilities. I've had to carry around a second radio just to send tones!
Thank you guys so much for your help! I have to say, the Saber is hands-down the best radio I've ever owned. I'm real excited now, because I'll finally be able to use the controller on my repeater since I'll have DTMF capabilities. I've had to carry around a second radio just to send tones!
Re: Saber swap
Just wanted to follow up...
Got the front shield today and got everything set. Works perfectly! I now have a fully functional Saber III. Thank you very much Tom and Glenn for your help!
Got the front shield today and got everything set. Works perfectly! I now have a fully functional Saber III. Thank you very much Tom and Glenn for your help!