Would you buy a Chines Rib (and I'm not talking take out)

[JerryS]

All that I seem to find on e@#$ is ribs out of china Has anyone have any experience with them?

[Bill_G]

To program radios made where? (big grin)

[tvsjr]

Hmm... skimping on a RIB to program multi-thousand-dollar radios. Nope, cost-benefit just doesn't work out...

[rydzewski]

i bought an aftermarket one from e-_ _ _ from Ontario Canada. have not had any issues with my spectra's, cdm's and HT1250's. works just fine.

[JPOPatents]

I've used Chinese RIBs- some work, some don't. If you have a $100 radio and don't care about hosing it, then an inexpensive RIB may be cost effective. For real radios, use Motorola OEM - I tossed all of my overseas junk for an RLN4008E and RKN4075C and never looked back.

[linkinpark9812]

I've used Chinese RIBs- some work, some don't. If you have a $100 radio and don't care about hosing it, then an inexpensive RIB may be cost effective. For real radios, use Motorola OEM - I tossed all of my overseas junk for an RLN4008E and RKN4075C and never looked back.

Well I did have one problem with a Chinese made rib (I'll assume it is since it is not Motorola brand). However the build quality was quite good.

However one did quit working, but not during programming and reading. I think it was the way i was plugging/unplugging the cables without turning off the radio and rib. i think it caused a spike or something and possible messed up a diode. I wasn't sure if it was the radio or RIB.

So i bought the same one again from the same guy, and it has worked fine every since, as long as i plugged/unplugged the radio cables correctly.

IMO, I think it was cost effective for me. The RIB was about $25, but since I had to get two, about $50. I only have two radios that probably total all together $200-$250. And It seems most new moto ribs are $200+ which wouldn't make sense to me.

However, if I owned an XTS5000 and an XTL5000, then I think I would pay the extra so I don't mess up +$1,000 worth of radios.

I guess it is personal opinion and how much you are willing to spend. But other than that little problem, my eBay rib works fine.

Happy (safe) programming!

[N4KVE]

I had a Chinese rib & used it once for a few UHF AS3's. I put it away for a few years & went to use it again. I read the radio fine, but when I went to program the changes back into the radio, the rib had died. No trouble to the radio, but the rib was dead. I didn't want to spend alot on the real deal, but I have nothing newer than an XTS 3000, & I've been out of work for over a year. [Thanks GM] I remembered the Radio Stew ribs & bought one. It's supposed to be a copy of the M rib. It has been perfect so far without a problem. I think it was $50. If you don't want to pay for the M rib, go with the Radio Stew one. GARY N4KVE

[JerryS]

Anybody know were to get the blank PC board that sandy made? I don't know if he is still selling them. I haven't been able to get a hold of him.

[motorola_otaku]

Seriously? You'd be better off breadboarding a RIB from the Batlabs schematic and using that than messing with a KawaCRAP RIB (or RIBless cable, for that matter.)

Futurlec (http://www.futurlec.com) still stocks the CA3140E IC and the ICL7660 voltage inverter.

[linkinpark9812]

Seriously? You'd be better off breadboarding a RIB from the Batlabs schematic and using that than messing with a KawaCRAP RIB (or RIBless cable, for that matter.)

Futurlec (http://www.futurlec.com) still stocks the CA3140E IC and the ICL7660 voltage inverter.

Well the kawa stuff actually, IMO, isn't that bad. While that first RIB did have a problem (see my post above), I think it was on my end. And the one I have now works perfect, no problems.

Since the Spectra requires the RIB, that is the only time the rib is used (for me).

the HT1000 I got, I got a ribless for it (since you can get away with it, unlike the spectra). I think I got that from a kawa guy too and it works fine too.

thats just from my experience though.

[tvsjr]

Yes, the Kawa stuff IS that bad. It's crap. Just like their cables.

[escomm]

Hmm... skimping on a RIB to program multi-thousand-dollar radios. Nope, cost-benefit just doesn't work out...

Which radios that require a rib cost thousands of dollars?

[tvsjr]

Hmm... skimping on a RIB to program multi-thousand-dollar radios. Nope, cost-benefit just doesn't work out...

Which radios that require a rib cost thousands of dollars?

No, you read that one wrong...

Cost: $250 Moto RIB
Benefit: Not bricking a $3K radio

It's not worth saving $100-200 on a RIB if the risk is blowing up a $3K radio.

[escomm]

I read it correctly.

No radio that requires a RIB costs $3000.

I see Astro Spectras in FSWT for $300.

I see XTS3000s for $500.

So let's reanalyze:

Cost: $200 for a RIB and $50-$200 for a cable depending on model
Benefit: Not bricking a $500 radio

The argument for using OEM exclusively for one-off programming is much harder to make nowadays. The market has changed and the expensive radios on the market no longer require a RIB (i.e. Astro 25 and beyond, 100% ribless)

[FireCpt809]

I have one Kawa RIB and a Motorola rib, I use my Motorola mostly for my DOS related stuff and my 3K and astro. I have used the Kawa on my sabers,xts3500 and spectras without problem. I think some of the early kawa RIB issues have been eliminated. His cables and RIB are good for the occasional stuff. I wouldnt run a shop on those alone.

[AEC]

I bought a kawa RIB close to 7 years ago, and with the 'intention' of putting a case on it as well.

Never cased it, and in use daily since purchase, althought it sits on a table, it has been in the field several times and has yet to cause problems or fail.

Not a bad deal for $30.00. I also have a Circle-M RIB as well as a Polaris(the board has ELVIS LIVES printed on it!).
I have had more issues with the Polaris than with the Kawa RIB.

All RIBS I have program everything from Genesis, Jedi, Sabers, Waris and Radius...Including my XTS3K.

As for cables, I have two factory, the remainder are shop built, like for the MTR and Quantar(null) serial cable.
I use RJ45 adaptors for my CDMs and 'Tracs, Sm120s...

Not going into too much detail, but as an overview, even the El-Cheapo stuff can provide long service.

If only my Toughbook was as reliable :-O

[JerryS]

I have gotten a hold of sandy, and will be ordering one from him this week.

Are there any up grades to the parts that I would want to do?

JerryS

[JerryS]

OK I have the rib figured out, now all I need is a source for the adapter that mounts to the radio so I can build the programing cable.

[motorola_otaku]

..now all I need is a source for the adapter that mounts to the radio so I can build the programing cable.

Which radio? Most of us just rob connectors from old speaker mics for the portables.

[JerryS]

..now all I need is a source for the adapter that mounts to the radio so I can build the programing cable.

Which radio? Most of us just rob connectors from old speaker mics for the portables.

Sorry I guess that would help. The radio's are Astro Saber Handheld and Spectra mobile

[KE7JFF]

I own a KAWA Rib. They are actually re-badged Maxton units. I opened mine up and really, there is not much of a difference over a regular RLN4008 unit. Sure there's a few additional features, but otherwise not much to the basic design.

[JerryS]

OK. I have the parts coming for the rib card that I am getting from Sandy.
The question that I have is how to test the rib before trying to read a Radio?

Is there such a way to do that?

Thanks Jerry

[AEC]

Aside from standard component tests, connect the RIB to the computer and connect a radio, like an HT600, and do a com test, this will confirm there is communication taking place between the radio and the RIB/computer.

Other than this, you could read the radio, that can't cause problems as you are not writing instructions back into the radio to corrupt it.

But if your soldering is good, and all parts are in their respective locations, power it up and go to work.

[Will]

Check here for my RIB value changes to work correctly with true RS232.

http://batlabs.com/images/rib_mod.jpg

Tried and proven for 17 years!

Also I have added a 10K resistor on each input of the comparator IC U003 pins 2 and 3. This saves the comparator from over voltage on the BUSS+ and BUSS- lines going to the radio. The two Zener diodes are 10 to 12 volt rating.

[JerryS]

Also I have added a 10K resistor on each input of the comparator IC U003 pins 2 and 3. This saves the comparator from over voltage on the BUSS+ and BUSS- lines going to the radio. The two Zener diodes are 10 to 12 volt rating.

How did you add the 10K resistors to the board? Did you design your own board with the mods?

JerryS

[JerryS]

I have been studying the modified rib schematic that is on batlabs and the rib schematic from radio stew's site and boy is there a difference.

the one from batlabs has higher rated components then the radio stew one. It is quite interesting.

JerryS

[Will]

How did you add the 10K resistors to the board? Did you design your own board with the mods?

JerryS

I cut the trace and put a 1205 style surface mount chip resistor over the cut.

[JerryS]

Recived the card from sandy. I have tried to figure out were to cut to add the ristors but it is so compact that their is no way to do it on his card.

So if you have any ideas let me know.

Jerry

[JerryS]

I figured out how to mount the extra resistors on u003. I got a chip socket that had extra long legs. I cut the legs on 3 & 4 then soldered a smd type resistor in line, soldered the socket on to the board and installed the U003 chip.

Not done building the board yet but it meters out ok.

Dr Frankenstein

[giguchan]

I used to use a genuine MOTO black box rib. I now use a genine moto "ribless) cable. I am just Programming just the basic CDM'S and HT 1550'S- NOTHING SPECIAL. to me all my radios are important to me,So i would not take chances on making my radio a doorstop- no matter what it cost me..(ok a 50 maxtrak)

When i upgrade to all the new fancy Digital/APCO stuff.. I would most Likely get Moto EQUIPMENT to go with it as well.

[mikey107sec]

I got a Kawa RIB a few years back. It seems to work fine but the cables are another story. I had the HT1250,CDM1250,and HT1000 cables from him all fail on me at some point. Two were trash right out of the package didn't even work. He did send a replacement though. Guess you get what you pay for. I would like to get a real RLN4008 RIB some day.

[mancow]

I love my cheap Chinese rib. It's the one with the slide out door for the 9v. It's super compact, has a power and data led, and even came with the pc cable. It looks pretty darn high quality inside with nicely made surface mount boards.

However, the factory RIB does seem to have more robust connectors.

[linkinpark9812]

I love my cheap Chinese rib. It's the one with the slide out door for the 9v. It's super compact, has a power and data led, and even came with the pc cable. It looks pretty darn high quality inside with nicely made surface mount boards.

However, the factory RIB does seem to have more robust connectors.

Ya the internal quality is not too bad. Here are some pictures of how the top and bottom of the PCB looks, as well as the ports and what it looks like when put all together.

I wonder if all of the RIBs are same from the different "kawa" guys? If you got yours on eBay and yours looks different than this one, post some pics, or if they look the same, let us know. The eBay pictures of the RIB seem all the same, but that is just the case, not sure if all of the internals are the same. It is supposed to be exactly the same as a RLN4008B.

It seems to work for me just fine. Reading and writing the Spectra multiple times without any problems with the RIB or the cables that I got off of eBay. My RIB came with the RIB-to-Computer cable.

[giguchan]

Looks like a solid unit... good luck with it!

P.S. does anyone have a picture of the AAHLN9742 flasing adapter? i just ordered one , but the picture does not come up on MOL for whatever reason.. i am just curious to see what i ordered.
thanks.

[JerryS]

I love my cheap Chinese rib. It's the one with the slide out door for the 9v. It's super compact, has a power and data led, and even came with the pc cable. It looks pretty darn high quality inside with nicely made surface mount boards.

However, the factory RIB does seem to have more robust connectors.

Ya the internal quality is not too bad. Here are some pictures of how the top and bottom of the PCB looks, as well as the ports and what it looks like when put all together.

I wonder if all of the RIBs are same from the different "kawa" guys? If you got yours on eBay and yours looks different than this one, post some pics, or if they look the same, let us know. The eBay pictures of the RIB seem all the same, but that is just the case, not sure if all of the internals are the same. It is supposed to be exactly the same as a RLN4008B.

It seems to work for me just fine. Reading and writing the Spectra multiple times without any problems with the RIB or the cables that I got off of eBay. My RIB came with the RIB-to-Computer cable.

Looks like Im gona haves to gets me one of them and checkit out. You know me gota Frankinmod something

Dr. Frankenmod

[linkinpark9812]

I used to use a genuine MOTO black box rib. I now use a genine moto "ribless) cable. I am just Programming just the basic CDM'S and HT 1550'S- NOTHING SPECIAL. to me all my radios are important to me,So i would not take chances on making my radio a doorstop- no matter what it cost me..(ok a 50 maxtrak)

When i upgrade to all the new fancy Digital/APCO stuff.. I would most Likely get Moto EQUIPMENT to go with it as well.

Ya it seems that many Motorola Radios you can get away with using a RIBless cable. I have an HT1000 and I just use a RIBless cable with that. However, it seems that there are some radios that have no choice but to use the RIB, such as the Spectra (or Astro). I think with the Spectra it has something to do with it's data bus and how it communicates with the RIB and computer, since it is quite a complex radio. So my RIB as of now is only used for my Spectra. Not sure on what other radios must use a RIB though.

Why doesn't Motorola get rid of the RIB? Is it just for the extra cash?

[giguchan]

Back in the day when i had My maxtracs i used a RIB.. I started out with an aftermarket one then it acted up , so i just went to MOTO and ordered me up a new rib and never looked behind me. I upgraded with CDM'S. I saw that MOTO had Ribless cables. I am very happy with them. I dont run very exotic stuff,So i use a ribless cable for my cdm's and my 3 HT 1550'S I'M good to go.

[motorola_otaku]

It is supposed to be exactly the same as a RLN4008B.

The CA3140E IC is the critical part. Seeing that, I would almost be inclined to believe that it functions identically to a RLN4008.

U001 on the bottom of the board looks like a subbed 5V voltage regulator in place of the spec'd 78L05, but that shouldn't affect anything as long as it's stable and the output is clean. A good test to prove this thing's worthiness would be to sweep the power jack with 7 to 15 volts, and make sure that you're getting rock-steady 5V out of the regulator.

[linkinpark9812]

It is supposed to be exactly the same as a RLN4008B.

The CA3140E IC is the critical part. Seeing that, I would almost be inclined to believe that it functions identically to a RLN4008.

U001 on the bottom of the board looks like a subbed 5V voltage regulator in place of the spec'd 78L05, but that shouldn't affect anything as long as it's stable and the output is clean. A good test to prove this thing's worthiness would be to sweep the power jack with 7 to 15 volts, and make sure that you're getting rock-steady 5V out of the regulator.

Ya, and just so you guys know, this RIB can be powered by 3 sources. I know some have said that some of these non-OEM RIBs won't do the 3rd power source but this one does. First, it does the Power jack. Second, it does a 9 Volt battery. Third, it will get power from the SWB+ pin if the radio provides it. An example is the Spectra, which I have. When the radio is powered up, the RIB is also powered up when connected, and as I have heard that is how the Motorola RIB is also hooked up. Seems almost completely identical.

EDIT: Upon further inspection, that U001 IS a 78L05, at least that is what is printed on the chip. Maybe you can tell better by looking at it, but that is supposedly what it is, unless it is marked wrong? All I know is that I can see 78L05 printed on it.