Spectra Head Separation Question

[SoCalRescue]

Hey All,
Just bought a Moto Spectra VHF for a RIDICULOUS price. I mean absolutely insane... Anyways, the head is attached to the unit (it's all one unit) and I don't know much about them. So here's the question:

Can I turn this spectra into a remote head unit like the many I see? Is there a way to take the head off and turn it into the standard looking non-attached spectra unit? If so, what parts will I need and is it costly?

Thanks in advanced!

[fchrist16]

Simple answer, since I don't have my books in front of me for part numbers...

T15 Torx screwdriver to remove the two screws holding the head in place.
1 - 17' standard Spectra "Remote" Cable.
1 - 2 port (could be 1 if you don't want/have a VRS/PA Box) DB25 pin Faceplate.
1 - New "Used" Head from somewhere (A7 or A9 depending on what you have now) unless you have the parts to make the head you remove into a remote mount.

Remove the current head off the radio using the T15 screwdriver. Remove the interconnect board that is located directly behind that and plugged into the radio. Grab the new faceplate and plug it in, replace the 2 T15 screws. Plug the cable in there and on the new (or modified) control head.

Good to go! Make sure the caps have been replaced too!

Regards,

-Frank C.

[SoCalRescue]

Awesome! Sounds like a hardware project and not much (or really any) programming involved... If I put a new head on it, do I need to do anything in the software? (because I cant...) If I put on a head that is higher than what I have will it work plug and play?

[fchrist16]

No software mods needed, unless you want to program each button to do something. That is software related, but can be done on your current setup as well.

Regards,

-Frank C.

[WB6NVH]

Note that there are two styles of cables, new and "old." The "old" uses a different connection scheme on the back of the head from the new, while the "new" uses the same sort of connector as the Syntor X9000 heads do, or the Systems 9000 A9 heads. Thus you will need to match the head to the cable. A problem that always vexes me. A bunch of heads and a bunch of cables, all mis-matched.

The archives of these forums should have plenty of data about upgrading the heads on Spectras and what you have to do to get them to work. The A5 and A7 seem to work pretty much as a plug and play interchange but doing something like taking an A5 radio and using an A9 or (worse) the HHCH or the A4 (I think that's the one with rotary volume control) require some hacking.

I'm frankly surprised that Spectras bring any money at all these days. Narrowbanding is right around the corner and a lot of them have been damaged by leaking electrolytics by now. It can't be hams who are buying them at $ 100+ prices. I am guessing it's clueless independent cabbies and towing operators who are going to be in for some disappointment quite soon.

[Mike B]

This diagram shows the different ways of building up control heads for dash and trunk mount radios:
http://www.onfreq.com/syntorx/spectra/index.html#combo

It has hot spots you can click on for part numbers of the different assemblies. However, the information is for more than just your particular needs. You will need to sort through the different types of parts (like ignoring the dash mount part numbers for example) for the correct combination. Often many of these parts are found as assemblies. For example the remote mount radio interconnect board is usually found with the front plastic attached. You will need the correct type of control head rear plastic (old or new style) and new mounting brackets.

The old style head setups are connected like this:
http://www.onfreq.com/syntorx/spectra/index.html#orgcon

The new style Systems 9000 head setups are connected like this:
http://www.onfreq.com/syntorx/spectra/i ... l#sys9kcon

Your current dash mount already has the emergency and ignition wiring on the rear DB-15 J2 connector:
http://www.onfreq.com/syntorx/spectra/i ... #j2dashrem

The old style cables are designed to use the control head connection pigtail DB-15 J3 connector instead of the J2 rear connector:
http://www.onfreq.com/syntorx/spectra/i ... ml#j3cable
Depending on your control head optional circuit board jumpers and if any J2 pins not found on J3 are already in use, you may have to figure out how to change these connections. Chances are it may still work leaving J2 attached and not connecting J3.

The new style cables will probably require the green and orange wires to be connected. Just leave the radio drawer rear J2 connector in place.

[SoCalRescue]

Note that there are two styles of cables, new and "old." The "old" uses a different connection scheme on the back of the head from the new, while the "new" uses the same sort of connector as the Syntor X9000 heads do, or the Systems 9000 A9 heads. Thus you will need to match the head to the cable. A problem that always vexes me. A bunch of heads and a bunch of cables, all mis-matched.

The archives of these forums should have plenty of data about upgrading the heads on Spectras and what you have to do to get them to work. The A5 and A7 seem to work pretty much as a plug and play interchange but doing something like taking an A5 radio and using an A9 or (worse) the HHCH or the A4 (I think that's the one with rotary volume control) require some hacking.

I'm frankly surprised that Spectras bring any money at all these days. Narrowbanding is right around the corner and a lot of them have been damaged by leaking electrolytics by now. It can't be hams who are buying them at $ 100+ prices. I am guessing it's clueless independent cabbies and towing operators who are going to be in for some disappointment quite soon.

And I totally agree! However, I live right along the coast, and I can use it for Marine use and for local HAM stuff. I got the whole setup with 128 channels programmed for under $100 guaranteed so I am hoping I wont be disappointed. It comes tomorrow. When I have the serious cash though, I will be going XTL. Thank you for the help!

[SoCalRescue]

This diagram shows the different ways of building up control heads for dash and trunk mount radios:
http://www.onfreq.com/syntorx/spectra/index.html#combo

It has hot spots you can click on for part numbers of the different assemblies. However, the information is for more than just your particular needs. You will need to sort through the different types of parts (like ignoring the dash mount part numbers for example) for the correct combination. Often many of these parts are found as assemblies. For example the remote mount radio interconnect board is usually found with the front plastic attached. You will need the correct type of control head rear plastic (old or new style) and new mounting brackets.

The old style head setups are connected like this:
http://www.onfreq.com/syntorx/spectra/index.html#orgcon

The new style Systems 9000 head setups are connected like this:
http://www.onfreq.com/syntorx/spectra/i ... l#sys9kcon

Your current dash mount already has the emergency and ignition wiring on the rear DB-15 J2 connector:
http://www.onfreq.com/syntorx/spectra/i ... #j2dashrem

The old style cables are designed to use the control head connection pigtail DB-15 J3 connector instead of the J2 rear connector:
http://www.onfreq.com/syntorx/spectra/i ... ml#j3cable
Depending on your control head optional circuit board jumpers and if any J2 pins not found on J3 are already in use, you may have to figure out how to change these connections. Chances are it may still work leaving J2 attached and not connecting J3.

The new style cables will probably require the green and orange wires to be connected. Just leave the radio drawer rear J2 connector in place.

Awesome! Thank you so much! I get the radio tomorrow, I will play around with it then!

[jackhackett]

T15 Torx screwdriver to remove the two screws holding the head in place.

Actually those screws take a Hex, not Torx. Using a Torx is a good way to strip them, or your bit.

[fchrist16]

Good to know! I've always used my T15 bit on them! Guess I've been lucky...

Regards,

-Frank C.

[GlennD]

The head is a 2.5 millimeter hex. A t10 will work if the screw is in good condition and the tool is not worn. 11 years ago the astro spectra instructor recommended a T10 so even Motorola does it wrong.