Antenna Install on an F-150
Moderator: Queue Moderator
Antenna Install on an F-150
I am helping a friend with mounting an antenna on his '00(I think) F-150. Neither of us have ever done a mobile install. We are using a 1/4 wave VHF antenna that was on a mag mount. He is wanting a hood mount antenna though. I was wondering if anybody had any experience with an F=150 or converting a mag mount to hood mount (this especially). Thanks!
Tim Coleman, EMD/EMT-I
Burke EOC - Telecommunicator - C-10
Glen Alpine Fire Dept. - First Responder - 6913
Burke EOC - Telecommunicator - C-10
Glen Alpine Fire Dept. - First Responder - 6913
-
- Posts: 727
- Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 8:06 pm
First, you will have to get a "L" bracket that has a 3/4" NMO mount on it to go on the hood, and a NMO coax kit. As far as magmount to hood mount (I'm assuming when you say hood mount you are referring to a mount on the fender on a "L" bracket) you should be able to unscrew the antenna and screw it on the new mount considering it is a NMO mount on the bottom of the antenna. The downside to this would be the radiated pattern would be very poor versus a roof mount. If you are using a 1/4 wave antenna, I would put it on the roof being as the height would not be affected much.
If you decide to do a roof mount, use a 3/4" hole saw to cut the hole approximately 1-2" forward of the third brake light and centered on the roof. Then all you have to do is push the coax through the hole towards the driver's side rear pillar. Pull the rear of the headliner down and just off center towards the driver's side is a small square hole to pull the coax thru. Then it is just a matter of routing to coax to the radio. Remember to stay clear of moving or hot parts.
If you decide to do a hood mount, use stainless screws on the "L" bracket and there is an entry point just behind the brake booster so you can get the coax in and the power out.
If any more questions, just post, myself or someone here will gladly help you. Hope this helps.
If you decide to do a roof mount, use a 3/4" hole saw to cut the hole approximately 1-2" forward of the third brake light and centered on the roof. Then all you have to do is push the coax through the hole towards the driver's side rear pillar. Pull the rear of the headliner down and just off center towards the driver's side is a small square hole to pull the coax thru. Then it is just a matter of routing to coax to the radio. Remember to stay clear of moving or hot parts.
If you decide to do a hood mount, use stainless screws on the "L" bracket and there is an entry point just behind the brake booster so you can get the coax in and the power out.
If any more questions, just post, myself or someone here will gladly help you. Hope this helps.
Where is a good place to find an NMO bracket/mount? We went to the local Rat Shack but most of what they had was CB stuff. Is is possible to use a double male connector (the same size of the base of the antenna) bolted through a bracket? We're kinda looking for an el cheepo/simple-stupid method. Thanks!
Tim Coleman, EMD/EMT-I
Burke EOC - Telecommunicator - C-10
Glen Alpine Fire Dept. - First Responder - 6913
Burke EOC - Telecommunicator - C-10
Glen Alpine Fire Dept. - First Responder - 6913
- apco25
- Posts: 2685
- Joined: Tue Oct 30, 2001 4:00 pm
- What radios do you own?: APX / Astro 25 / Harris
Several of the guys on here are dealers for quality commerical antennas. The elcheapo/stupid idea is just going to ruin the performance of your radio and I wouldn't be happy with it on my truck if I were you two.
A simple NMO mount and fender L-bracket shouldn't really cost you more than about $25 less if its just the regular hole mount for the roof
Do it right the first time and it will last the life of the vehicle.
A simple NMO mount and fender L-bracket shouldn't really cost you more than about $25 less if its just the regular hole mount for the roof
Do it right the first time and it will last the life of the vehicle.
-
- Posts: 727
- Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 8:06 pm
The L-Bracket is very easy and the parts are cheap. Do yourselves a favor... DON'T GO EL-Cheap-O. It isn't worth. For the extra $5 to $10 you'll spend to do it right, you'll be much better off.
Here are 2 pictures from my truck. I know I am missing a screw so save the wise-ass comments
. The NMO kit I get from my local dealer (I forget which brand) is know as the "X-Mount". It comes with Coax, and all the parts snap into place on the bracket. I use it and many many vehicles in my FD use them for low band and scanner antennas for personal vehicles.
If height isn't going to be a concern (parking garages?), concider the roof mount. The NMO parts are all the same, you jsut have to make the hole in the roof.


Here are 2 pictures from my truck. I know I am missing a screw so save the wise-ass comments

If height isn't going to be a concern (parking garages?), concider the roof mount. The NMO parts are all the same, you jsut have to make the hole in the roof.
"I'll eat you like a plate of bacon and eggs in the morning. "
- Some loser on rr.com
eBay at it's finest:
Me: "What exactly is a 900Mhz UHF CB?"
Them: "A very nice CB at 900Mhz speed!"

- Some loser on rr.com
eBay at it's finest:
Me: "What exactly is a 900Mhz UHF CB?"
Them: "A very nice CB at 900Mhz speed!"

-
- Posts: 727
- Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 8:06 pm
If you are going to stoop to the level of installing an "L" bracket instead of body mounting, whatever you do, DON'T use TEK screws or self tappers to mount the bracket! You will need to tighten them monthly and the holes will eventually elongate from the antenna whippin' in the wind. Use 1/4" STAINLESS or STANDARD steel pop rivets (no aluminum). Using rivets properly, you will maintain constant tension on the bracket and nothing will come loose.
Tie the cable properly, too.
Tie the cable properly, too.
-
- Posts: 727
- Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 8:06 pm