Lighting Install question

ExKa|iBuR · Post by **ExKa|iBuR** » Tue Mar 04, 2003 10:57 am

Not REALLY radio related, but...

I'm installing this flasher (EL13A Alternating Flasher)
http://www.bcsstore.com/tridelalelfl.html

Into my rear turn-signals and backup lights, so it'll flash reverse, turn, reverse, turn, etc...

Anyway, my question is...this thing flashes somewhat slowly, I'd say, 2 flashes per second or so. Is there some way I can speed it up, to say, 4 flashes per second or something like that?

Thanks

M

spectragod · Post by **spectragod** » Tue Mar 04, 2003 6:08 pm

Without a stack of relays, it can't be done.... at least and have the vehicle be safe. There are manufactures that make tail light flashers, I would recommend one of those as they have the proper safties built in to have your lights work in the event of a flasher failure, as well as the brake and turn signal over rides built into them. Then again, if your planning on using this on a Ford product, I would advise against it all together.

SG

nmfire10 · Post by **nmfire10** » Tue Mar 04, 2003 7:08 pm

That is entirely the wrong tool for the job. Don't even bother. You will spend more on relays and advil than you would on actual tail light flasher. Trust Me.

Matt

ExKa|iBuR · Post by **ExKa|iBuR** » Tue Mar 04, 2003 7:20 pm

I'm not concerned with messing up any of the functions of the car's lights. I've already found a way to solve that (with diodes, and a relay).

I'm just wanting to know about making the EL13A go faster.

I know of many installs, personal and public-safetyish vehicles that have been set up with a similar setup.

M

jim · Post by **jim** » Wed Mar 05, 2003 6:23 am

If somebody actually installed one of these flashers on a municipal registered vehicle, they should be terminated. This is a H U G E liability to do so. If you are going to do it, use the right product for the job. As for Fords......they ARE NO DIFFERENT THAN GM, Mopar, Daihatsu, Ferarri, Lexus or BMW. There is no "voodoo" in Ford's rear lighting, as many think. There ARE, however instances where Fords (and others) allowed the shifter to become released by the use of the incorrect flasher.

As for speeding up a flasher.....if it's a solid-state relay slave type, you may try different resistances on the flasher's logic circuit if you can get it open.

Using diodes and relays in a lighting circuit just to use an Autozone $4.99 flasher is poor practice and can cause problems such as backfeed into the park lock, backfeed into the transmission's TCM unit, lights to fail and other problems.

I'm sure that one could whittle a .45 slug from a wheel weight from a big truck and give it to a police officer to use in their pistol when on duty, but is it really worth it?

ExKa|iBuR · Post by **ExKa|iBuR** » Wed Mar 05, 2003 10:45 am

gr.

My application is not public saftey. It would be used a max of an hour a month. This is why I'm not exactly going for the high-tech approach. Just something cheap and easy that works.

If I were installing it in my own personal vehicle to be used a lot, I'd spend the 50 bucks and buy the professional ones, but since it's not something that will be used often at all, I can't justify spending that kind of money.

I understand the backfeed problems, which is why I use diodes on every wire in and out of the flasher, so that can never happen.

M

Post by **Code3Response** » Wed Mar 05, 2003 11:04 am

Hang on - so its not even your vehicle? Thats major liabilty. Used flashback taillight flashers can be had for around $20 at http://www.elightbarsforum.org - wouldnt you be spending about that on the an flasher and relays and diodes etc anyway?

ExKa|iBuR · Post by **ExKa|iBuR** » Wed Mar 05, 2003 12:14 pm

No, it's not my vehicle.

It's my father's car that I use maybe one weekend a month, which is why I don't want to spend much $$ on it.

I've already designed a way to prevent anything like back-feeding in to the parklock or TCM or anything else, as well as made this modular, so I can remove the entire thing from the car when it's not being used and everything will be as it was from the factory.

I just asked a simple question, I don't really need all the replies telling me not to use what I'm going to use...I'm looking for ideas/suggestions, not opinions...

But, thanks to the fellow who did give me an idea to try, I'll have to give it a shot

M

GMC · Post by **GMC** » Wed Mar 05, 2003 2:24 pm

hello,

You asked for help and that is what you got. Just because it was not the answer you wanted doesn't mean people are ganging up on you or talking down to you. There are some no make that many people on this board with a lot of knowledge to offer and alot of it is from there past experience(been there done that). All there trying to do is save you some grief and time down the road.

Gary

ExKa|iBuR · Post by **ExKa|iBuR** » Wed Mar 05, 2003 4:19 pm

I understand, and appreciate help when it's asked for.

The point I'm ( trying ) to make is that I asked how to make a flasher go faster - not if what I want to do is a good idea.

I just can't justify spending 50+ dollars on the proer thing, when for less than 10 bucks I can do it, considering it will hardly ever be used.

M

spectragod · Post by **spectragod** » Wed Mar 05, 2003 5:24 pm

There is no easy way to speed up the electronic flasher, that's not to say that it can't be done. I have never tried, all my applications are public saftey/gov't, we don't cut corners, we do the job right..... once.

As far as hook ups go on Ford vehicles, Ford uses powder coated wires on a lot of their harness's, you can only silver solder and heat shrink that stuff, otherwise, massive problems will follow.

SG

FFParamedic571 · Post by **FFParamedic571** » Wed Mar 05, 2003 6:38 pm

SG,

You saying you solder and heat shrink any and all connections you do in the factory harness, or just the high current draws?

jim · Post by **jim** » Wed Mar 05, 2003 7:08 pm

Powder coated harnesses?

WTF? I have NEVER seen this, yet. The only thing I see that isn't standard copper is an occasional fuse link- which can be soldered.

As for soldering and shrinkwrapping, I do this to ALL connections that will carry over 2 amps- period. By installing ONE crimp connector to an OEM wire, your customer can be denied any warranty from the manufacturer since you didn't adhere to SAE accepted standards for splicing and/or materials. Chrysler is the pickiest one on this subject. If you look at any vehicle which I build, you won't find one butt-splice connector anywhere. You also will find that all spade, ring and other terminals are soldered. It takes more time, but you won't have a comeback from a failed connection.

FFParamedic571 · Post by **FFParamedic571** » Wed Mar 05, 2003 7:33 pm

Believe it or not the WORST for crimping ( and a bad job at that ) is the dealers. Ive seen Secure-Idles installed with Scotchlock's and T-taps. Even when they attempt to solder it there isn' t so much as a piece of electrical tape. They hack into the headlight harness. I guess they can't find the factory loop to use 5" away from where they slap a federal flasher. Up until the whole tail light delema the dealer used to do a bang up job of hacking the brake wires in the trunk. Hey but thats what you get on State bid....

When it fails where do they go?? Not to the dealer.. Thats 200 mi from here..

jim · Post by **jim** » Wed Mar 05, 2003 8:38 pm

Dealer installs are the bottom of the barrel. These hacks that try to build a police cruiser should just go back to their old job at Burger King. They should be called Crimp King.