2003 Ford F-250HD Install questions...

WK9F · Post by **WK9F** » Fri Dec 05, 2003 10:12 pm

Hello to all the installers,

I have a 2003 F-250HD 4x4 that I am in the process of installing radios and lighting equipment in. Here's what I have so far:

VHF A9 110 Watt Spectra
UHF A9 110 Watt Spectra (going to be replaced with a 110 watt MCS-2000)
800 mhz B-7 Spectra (remote mounted)
GPS and a Panasonic CF-27 Laptop.

I'm going to be adding a 110 watt low band Syntor X9000 and possibly adding a MDX to monitor the EDACS systems here.

At this time, I have no plans to mount any type of amatuer equipment although I will probably add provisions to use my FT-897 laying on the seat.

As for lighting, I have:

7 pod, 12 light Vector
90 watt Whelen strobe supply with 6 tubes
60 watt Whelen strobe supply with 2 tubes
6 light arrow stick
High Beam flasher
2 - Fed Sig FB2's
Fed Sig SS2000SM Smart Siren controller

The 2 Fireballs, 60 watt strobe supply and the headlight flasher are on a different switch box (2 different color lighting)

I am going to be installing a dual battery isolator with 2 Optima Batteries. I have already replaced the stock battery with a yellow top Optima. I have not decided whether to use another yellow top or a red top for the second battery.

My questions are these:

1) When I move the radios to the second battery, can I still use the stock battery for the switched ignition control, or do I have to install a relay controlled by the ignition switch?

2) Should I move the power wires for the snowplow to the second battery, or leave them on the primary battery?

3) When I install the second battery and isolator, should I also replace the factory alternator with a bigger one. According to the service dept. at the dealership, the stock alternator is 140amps.

Jerry

jim · Post by **jim** » Sat Dec 06, 2003 8:31 am

I stopped using isolators and parallel the 2 Optimas with #2 cable.
Unless you are running a ton of accessories with the truck not running and for a long time, you won't need isolation. If you DO need isolation, I use a Borg Warner S5056 solenoid on the (+) crossover cable to battery 2.

I would cut the (+) cable of battery 1 about a foot from the battery and crimp/solder/shrinktube a ring lug on. At this point, install a single 3/8" insualted stud somewhere in that area and connect the two cut ends of the cable onto this stud. Tie the plow into this stud. Now, tie the (+) cable for battery 2 onto this stud.
Ground battery 2 direct;y to battery 1's (-) terminal with the same size cable as it's (+) and also a #10 from battery 2's (-) to body ground location close to battery 2.

New Ford alternators have been a real POS since 2002 since they went to the PWM regulator. If you are going to keeo this truck for a while, I would install either a 165A+ Leece-Neville alternator or some other brand "real" alternator. The OEM 140A unit is 'peak' rated and cannot do 140A continuously. The heavy aftermarket ones will do their rating all day long and say "is that all you got!"
Oh....bigger alternator=bigger B+ lead from alternator-to-battery.
Go from the alternator straight to the stud. You can install a 200A wafer fuse for a 160 unit. Don't forget to disconnect the OEM B+!

There are quite a few companies that make alternator systems if you do a google.com search.

Power radios from either #2 battery or from the stud that you installed. Note: when raising the plow, you will get a small voltage drop no matter where you tap. The isolator MAY help this, but it isn't going to make anything work any better or be more reliable.

mobiletechcom · Post by **mobiletechcom** » Sun Dec 07, 2003 1:51 pm

Hi, what kind of console r you using for the radios? i have a 2003 F-350 and im looking to mount 2 X9000 A-9 heads and i have no idea where im going to put them yet

WK9F · Post by **WK9F** » Sun Dec 07, 2003 1:57 pm

Hi,

I am using a modified console Made by a local company call 'Lund Industries'. It was one of their standard consoles that was cut down to fit into the space between the dash and the bench seat. It fits 2 A9 heads and 1 A7 head. If you want, I can send you a photo of it.

Jerry

Tech225 · Post by **Tech225** » Sun Dec 07, 2003 6:46 pm

How about a link to Lund Industries? I have seen their consoles but can't find much info.

WK9F · Post by **WK9F** » Sun Dec 07, 2003 7:21 pm

Here's the link to Lund Industries:

http://www.lund-industries.com

Mobiletechcom - I got your e-mail, I will send you the photos once I take them.

Jerry

N1CTF · Post by **N1CTF** » Mon Dec 15, 2003 6:57 pm

I have an 01 F250 with the Captain's chairs. The center console comes right out and I replaced it with a Havis & Shields 24" Consolidator Console. You can use the original console bolt holes. No holes were drilled, and Havis also provides the seat bolt mounting bracket. All the cables go to behind the back seat, and all eq is mounted vertically against the rear cab wall.

Second battery: You can order from Ford for around $30.00 a factory battery tray that goes on the left side where the charcoal canister is. If you go into the parts shop and order the replacement tray for a diesel F250, you will get the right part. I will get you the part number if you need. You move the canister upside down under the battery tray. Since the air filter intake is in the way, you can cut off a section of the rubber intake hose and mount the air filter at the end. When you are done it looks like it came from the factory that way.

Suggestion: Dont use a battery isolator. The diodes introduce a voltage drop and are a point of failure. So is a relay, but if you get continuous duty cycle type from Napa, it will probably be more relaible.

If it ever stops snowing here in Vermont I will pop the hood and take a picture and post it.

I can also send a wiring diagram if you are interested. I have spent FAR too much time working on F250's, so I have some stuff figured out by now.

Good luck. Please let me know if you need any wiring diagrams or installation notes.

V/R

John
N1CTF

WK9F · Post by **WK9F** » Tue Dec 16, 2003 7:27 pm

Hi,

It has been suggested that I put the 2 batteries in parallel (sp?). Would this be better than trying to run them through an isolator or relay? Would I use both yellow top Optimas or 1 yellow and 1 red?

It would be great to see a photo or 2 and the diagram would be most helpful.

Thanks.

Jerry

commtek · Post by **commtek** » Wed Dec 17, 2003 6:17 am

Jim pretty much explained it very well in his above post. You really don't need the isolator, but if you don't feel comfortable just paralleling the batteries, use the Borg Warner relay.

And two yellow top Optimas would be fine.

N1CTF · Post by **N1CTF** » Wed Dec 17, 2003 9:30 am

Jerry,

In my application, I need 1 battery to run the eq and the other to start the engine. My purpose is to always have a good battery to fire up the truck. The diesels have two batteries in parallel only to increase the capacity. You could put the two batteries in parallel, and get twice the capacity, but then they will both discharge equally as fast, and when the batteries discahrge, you will not be able to fire up the rig.

One thing to note: True deep discharge batteries such as marine trolling batteries, are of a different makeup than high current starting batteries. It would be against factory recomendations to put a deep discharge batt in parallel with a starting batt.

Another suggestion: Make sure you have a battery protector of some sort that will disconnect the spare battery from the load if its voltage goes below 11 Volts. Allowing the B+ to go lower that 11 volts on any lead-acid or gel type Optima battery (even the deep-cycle models) will permanently damage the battery, and it will then have less overall cacpacity. Each time you totally kill a battery it looses a considerable ammount of its capacity. After about 5 times the battery should be replaced. Unfortunately the battery tester eq they use at Sears does not really take capacity into account, and the battery will show as OK, but the capacity is much lower than specified.

I will berak out the digital camera and take some photos and then post them on this site. Meanwhile, I will put up the schematic diagram of the electrical system.

V/R

John
N1CTF

N1CTF · Post by **N1CTF** » Wed Dec 17, 2003 9:38 am

Jerry,

Just to clarify... The batteries will be in parallel ONLY when the engine is running. Use the relay to connect them and switch the relay by the IGN key circuit. If you dont have the relay, then they will be in parallel all the time, even when the truck is off. Please stand by for a schematic.

V/R

John
N1CTF

WK9F · Post by **WK9F** » Sun Jan 04, 2004 10:09 am

Hi all, I hope everyone's New Year is turning out ok.

Anyway, here's an update on my install. I've decided to go with 2 Optima yellow tops in parallel.

I've installed 1 Optima already in the factory tray.

Problem #1 - Optima battery is smaller than stock battery
Temp solution - Bungee cords (I know, but like
I said, temporary solution)

Problem #2 - The airhorn on my SS2000SM doesn't work right
anymore - sounds more like a siren than an air-
horn - What gives?

Problem #3 - I have been unsucessful at locating a dual battery
tray for my truck. There is no room on the driver's
side to mount another battery - the stupid ABS
computer/actuator is located there.

Obviously, solving problem #3 will solve problem #1, so I'm not too worried about that. Does anyone know where I can aquire a dual battery tray that will mount in the stock location? there is plenty of room, so space is not an issue.

Does anybody know what might have gone wrong with my SS2000SM? It worked fine before I switched the battery. Now, it only sounds the way it should if I rev the engine to about 1200RPM.

Jerry

jim · Post by **jim** » Sun Jan 04, 2004 12:47 pm

For the dual battery tray, you'll need to fabricate a large heavy "L" bracket and bolt it to the side of the passenger side frame rail under the truck. Mount a battery box in the "L" and fasten securely with battery clamp.

firemanbatt · Post by **firemanbatt** » Sun Jan 04, 2004 1:39 pm

You might also try a dual mounting tray from Painless wiring. They are specifically made for Jeeps but there shouldbe enough room to place them in the Ford.

Also they sell a isolator/relay setup simillar to one used on an ambulance. It gives the ability to run either battery or both depending on the positon of the switch.

jim · Post by **jim** » Sun Jan 04, 2004 3:38 pm

No room in the Fords- that's why they go on the frame rail or in a utility box in the rear.

WK9F · Post by **WK9F** » Sun Jan 04, 2004 3:58 pm

Hello,

It has been suggested that I mount the 2nd battery to the frame rail under the truck on the passenger side. Although I was trying to avoid this scenario, I will assume that there is merit behind the suggestion (i.e. under the hood has been tried and failed). I do not have unlimited funds in which to try this myself so I will follow the advice of Jim and mount it under the truck.

That being said, is there anybody that makes a pre-fabbed battery box and bracket to fit my truck/battery combination? My metalworking skills are less than mediocre and while I am not planning on 'off-roading' any time in the near future, I would like it to be secure to withstand the abuse and vibrations associated with snowplowing.

Thanks for all the advice,

Jerry

jim · Post by **jim** » Sun Jan 04, 2004 7:46 pm

Call Med-Tec and AEV ambulance manufacturers. They both use this setup on their vans. They may be willing to sell you one of the boxes and brackets.

I just get a standard battery box from http://www.jegs.com and fab the brackets.

Use #2 SAE cable to parallel to the OEM battery. Of course, use real crimp-on closed-end connectors and finish with adhesive type shrinktube to ensure water wont attach your connectors.
Carefully loom and clamp the pair of cables that route up under the hood since I'm sure you don't want to arc-weld while driving down the road! For the ground, I run batt#2's ground right to batt#1's (-) terminal. you can also run a second ground from batt#2 to the frame rail. I use no switching or isolators, as these add unreliablility and extra parts that are not needed. The OEMs second batteries on Diesels trucks proves this is correct.
Only use the solenoid or isolator if you are doing an "RV" type auxiliary battery setup where your trailer might have lights on all night with no engine running.

The Optima is nice since it has dual terminals. You can use the extra set to connect the second battery.