I am in the market for some new Hideaway strobes for my truck. I'm not sure which are they best. I am thinking of getting a 90W supply with 4-6 strobe heads. I've been reading about the Neobe lights from Tomar and I was wondering if anyone use these and if they are actually better and what they look like?
Thanks, Kevin
Tomar Neobe?
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I was just reading about how bright they were suposed to be and the "Neon" look. I was just wondering what you guys thought about them. I'm thinking about getting a set but I just wanted some feedback before I got them. I'm not sure exactly what they mean by a "Neon" look. I don't want my truck go to down the road looking like a Sign from Vegas.
At least what I have seen, they do have a different look to them, but I think its more with the flash pattern than anything else.
From what I saw, the Neobe flash pattern that I saw looks like Whelen's "Longburst" pattern which is 5 or 6 flashes I think and once the last flash flashes...the other outlet starts flashing so it looks like the strobes are always on.
If this is the secret to neobe or not, I dunno. I have only seen them at the trade shows. Not bad at all. I persoally am a Whelen man, and never had a problem with any of their products or support. Their new CPS power supplies are neat as you can have it automatically go thru each flash pattern that the power supply offeres (usually 8 or 9) and it looks sharp. I have one of our PD cars doing this with the lightbar and remote strobes and its wicked looking.
If cost is an issue, go for the cheapest, if not, I would go for a 90 watt or better Whelen CPS power supply. With hideaway strobes, go with the biggest power supply you can afford.
From what I saw, the Neobe flash pattern that I saw looks like Whelen's "Longburst" pattern which is 5 or 6 flashes I think and once the last flash flashes...the other outlet starts flashing so it looks like the strobes are always on.
If this is the secret to neobe or not, I dunno. I have only seen them at the trade shows. Not bad at all. I persoally am a Whelen man, and never had a problem with any of their products or support. Their new CPS power supplies are neat as you can have it automatically go thru each flash pattern that the power supply offeres (usually 8 or 9) and it looks sharp. I have one of our PD cars doing this with the lightbar and remote strobes and its wicked looking.
If cost is an issue, go for the cheapest, if not, I would go for a 90 watt or better Whelen CPS power supply. With hideaway strobes, go with the biggest power supply you can afford.
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For something different Neobe is nice. I have a Tomar PLII on my dash and it is extremely bright and noticable. Only thing about it is if you go all Neobe it could be too much depending on how many strobe heads you have. If you get a Neobe supply and a UPS/CPS Whelen unit with different patterns you should have some nice variations and a kick-butt looking setup. My car has the PLII and 2 UPS690s all set for different patterns... it's wild.
Although.. to pay homage to PJ... nothin beats the burb!!
Although.. to pay homage to PJ... nothin beats the burb!!
JAYMZ
"Mom and dad say I should make my life an example of the principles I believe in. But every time I do, they tell me to stop it."
Calvin
"Mom and dad say I should make my life an example of the principles I believe in. But every time I do, they tell me to stop it."
Calvin
The Neobe is a six-burst flash (that's been around long before the "other" brand 5/6 flash). There's also no time gap between the flash of the two channels like the other ones' 5/6 flash mode.
The Tomar's B+ operates at 600-630 VDC versus the typical 400-450 VDC.
The Tomar power supplies are rated in WRMS (watts RMS) and not peak wattage like most others. What does this mean? The Tomar 65 watt unit is comparable to most other 100-120 watt units on the market. It's the same game that car stereo amp manufacturers play to have a BIG wattage number. Ever see the 300 watt car stereo amps that have a #16 wire supplying power? 'Cause it's really a 150-ish watt unit! Tomar, in a way, shot themselves in the foot by using the more accurate RMS rating since I commonly hear "that's only 30 watts...my xxxxx brand does 60!" Like comparing apples to oranges, miles to kilomters or such.
One look at them will tell you what's up.
Another Tomar PS feature is the weatherproof potting. This is standard on ALL units- not just certain ones. You can also get the Delphi Weatherpak connectors for no extra charge. At trade shows, I use the 782-1228 power supply with RECT34S strobe heads and Weatherpak cables for my "waterproof" display. These items are placed in a 15 gallon aquarium and filled with water and run for 3 days straight with no effect on the product whatsoever...and this is all of their power supplies and lightheads, not just certain ones. CAUTION: Do not attempt this underwater stunt with Whelen products or water, ducks, frogs and fish will come out of their lightheads after only five minutes under water!
Tomar does this same thing at shows with a large aquaruim and their Heliobe lightbar.
I DO (read: I DO) use Whelen at times, but NEVER on fire apparatus where there is alot of water present. I also will talk my customers out of the Edge "sponge" bars. This name exists because of one drive through the rain or a carwash, they soak up all of the water they can. I know somebody is going to argue "mine doesn't so that", but trust me....it does! Whelen will even tell you "some water intrusion is expected." This is pretty bad for a product that has absolutely no internal weather/waterproofing of any type.
As for warranty service....read your "5 year" Whelen warranty. It is only covered for two years! or years 3,4 and 5 you must pay an increasing warranty replacement fee. On the 5th year, you must pay up to $190.00 for a power supply replacement! This is NOT a 5 year warranty!
The Neobe supplies have a 10 year warranty that covers the product for 10 years. I just had a power supply in a Neobe bar fail that was dated from 1996 and they replaced it for free.
The Heliobe lightbar's power supply is also covered for 10 years.
Why buy anything else?
What JAYMZ described is a nice setup. The UPC690 is kick-ass...especially for the price. I use 'em all the time. Nice selection of flash patterns and plenty of power to smoke through any colored OEM lens.
With the PL37SS dash light, you can't go wrong. I'll put the PL37 up against ANY dash strobe built and it will beat it silly. The only downfall to the PL37 is that they emit a rather loud ticking sound, but with 27 watts of power, you'll have that.
The Tomar's B+ operates at 600-630 VDC versus the typical 400-450 VDC.
The Tomar power supplies are rated in WRMS (watts RMS) and not peak wattage like most others. What does this mean? The Tomar 65 watt unit is comparable to most other 100-120 watt units on the market. It's the same game that car stereo amp manufacturers play to have a BIG wattage number. Ever see the 300 watt car stereo amps that have a #16 wire supplying power? 'Cause it's really a 150-ish watt unit! Tomar, in a way, shot themselves in the foot by using the more accurate RMS rating since I commonly hear "that's only 30 watts...my xxxxx brand does 60!" Like comparing apples to oranges, miles to kilomters or such.
One look at them will tell you what's up.
Another Tomar PS feature is the weatherproof potting. This is standard on ALL units- not just certain ones. You can also get the Delphi Weatherpak connectors for no extra charge. At trade shows, I use the 782-1228 power supply with RECT34S strobe heads and Weatherpak cables for my "waterproof" display. These items are placed in a 15 gallon aquarium and filled with water and run for 3 days straight with no effect on the product whatsoever...and this is all of their power supplies and lightheads, not just certain ones. CAUTION: Do not attempt this underwater stunt with Whelen products or water, ducks, frogs and fish will come out of their lightheads after only five minutes under water!
Tomar does this same thing at shows with a large aquaruim and their Heliobe lightbar.
I DO (read: I DO) use Whelen at times, but NEVER on fire apparatus where there is alot of water present. I also will talk my customers out of the Edge "sponge" bars. This name exists because of one drive through the rain or a carwash, they soak up all of the water they can. I know somebody is going to argue "mine doesn't so that", but trust me....it does! Whelen will even tell you "some water intrusion is expected." This is pretty bad for a product that has absolutely no internal weather/waterproofing of any type.
As for warranty service....read your "5 year" Whelen warranty. It is only covered for two years! or years 3,4 and 5 you must pay an increasing warranty replacement fee. On the 5th year, you must pay up to $190.00 for a power supply replacement! This is NOT a 5 year warranty!
The Neobe supplies have a 10 year warranty that covers the product for 10 years. I just had a power supply in a Neobe bar fail that was dated from 1996 and they replaced it for free.
The Heliobe lightbar's power supply is also covered for 10 years.
Why buy anything else?
What JAYMZ described is a nice setup. The UPC690 is kick-ass...especially for the price. I use 'em all the time. Nice selection of flash patterns and plenty of power to smoke through any colored OEM lens.
With the PL37SS dash light, you can't go wrong. I'll put the PL37 up against ANY dash strobe built and it will beat it silly. The only downfall to the PL37 is that they emit a rather loud ticking sound, but with 27 watts of power, you'll have that.
-
chipjumper
- Batboard $upporter
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Wow, i'm sold...hello eBay; time for a Neobe...
Don't forget to put away your soapbox jim
Anyone have any use for a Whelen 60watt supply that doesn't work right when the humidity is high? I was gonna shoot it for fun...
Can I use a "neobe" supply with any lighthead and get improved results? Or does it have to be a special "neobe" lighthead?
Don't forget to put away your soapbox jim
Anyone have any use for a Whelen 60watt supply that doesn't work right when the humidity is high? I was gonna shoot it for fun...
Can I use a "neobe" supply with any lighthead and get improved results? Or does it have to be a special "neobe" lighthead?
Last edited by chipjumper on Sun Jan 04, 2004 8:58 pm, edited 2 times in total.
I guess I'm sold too. I'm gonna scout out Ebay. Can anyone here get them new under MSRP? I'm gonna stay with a simple Hideaway set and maybe try to construct a few of the LED lightbars that were posted here awhile back. Thats untill I get my new truck then I'll transfer the hideaways over and possably get a Whelen set then.
Thanks for the info
Thanks for the info
Ok, so for those of us who have Whelen power supplys and strobe setups, can we simply replace the power supply to Neobe, or do we have to change tubes also??
Thanks!
Thanks!
Jay Goldmark, EMT
Ex-Captain, Woodmere Vol. Fire Dept.
Fire District Communications Supv.
KC2ZHI Amateur Radio Operator
Licensed Master Electrician
Owner, Top Class Electric, LLC.
Woodmere, Long Island, NY
"Enjoy Life, it's not a dress rehearsal !!!"
************************************************************
Ex-Captain, Woodmere Vol. Fire Dept.
Fire District Communications Supv.
KC2ZHI Amateur Radio Operator
Licensed Master Electrician
Owner, Top Class Electric, LLC.
Woodmere, Long Island, NY
"Enjoy Life, it's not a dress rehearsal !!!"
************************************************************
strobe tubes are strobe tubes, are strobe tubes.
as long as the impedance (read: length) matches, you're fine.
I tend to use the tomar pop-in tubes with whatever power supply i happen to be useing. The whelen ones tend to be harder to get in... or out.
I also like using the neobe two-head supply with a pair of nova linear par36 heads mounted with the tube vertically, especially under the grille.
What kind of tubes and supplies you use is personal preferance. However, the thing i like best about the tomar supplies, they're all potted... so i can mount them pretty much wherever i want.
I like doing installs with a 2 head neobe supply and a hideaway in each taillight... reguardless of whatever other type of strobe may be facing the rear, i always isolate the taillights.
1. its a consistant attention getting signal
2. if anything else fails, (or if it fails) there is redudnancy
3. tomar is cool.
Oh... and regaurdless of what the tomar cheerleader above may have said when it comes to buzzwords, the plain and simple part about it, they work, and work well.
One last thing though. I have never done an install that is pure Tomar neobe. Thats only because as attention getting and bright neobe is, its too consistant. I like to break it up a bit. The one combination i like the best is a Whelen 4x90 supply powering a dual dashmiser foward, and two single lightheads rearward, on either action flash, or a pattern cycle, plus neobe in the taillights (Tomar pop-ins) and under the grille (nova liniear par 36's)
You get the punch of neobe to attract the attention, and the changing pattern to keep the attention.
Ok, time for me to climb off my soapbox now.
as long as the impedance (read: length) matches, you're fine.
I tend to use the tomar pop-in tubes with whatever power supply i happen to be useing. The whelen ones tend to be harder to get in... or out.
I also like using the neobe two-head supply with a pair of nova linear par36 heads mounted with the tube vertically, especially under the grille.
What kind of tubes and supplies you use is personal preferance. However, the thing i like best about the tomar supplies, they're all potted... so i can mount them pretty much wherever i want.
I like doing installs with a 2 head neobe supply and a hideaway in each taillight... reguardless of whatever other type of strobe may be facing the rear, i always isolate the taillights.
1. its a consistant attention getting signal
2. if anything else fails, (or if it fails) there is redudnancy
3. tomar is cool.
Oh... and regaurdless of what the tomar cheerleader above may have said when it comes to buzzwords, the plain and simple part about it, they work, and work well.
One last thing though. I have never done an install that is pure Tomar neobe. Thats only because as attention getting and bright neobe is, its too consistant. I like to break it up a bit. The one combination i like the best is a Whelen 4x90 supply powering a dual dashmiser foward, and two single lightheads rearward, on either action flash, or a pattern cycle, plus neobe in the taillights (Tomar pop-ins) and under the grille (nova liniear par 36's)
You get the punch of neobe to attract the attention, and the changing pattern to keep the attention.
Ok, time for me to climb off my soapbox now.
alex wrote:Enough is enough. We aren't the world's police.
Breaking it up is something I commonly do. I use the Neobe on all lightheads except for the corner strobes, where I'll use the CPS690 system.
I've used Whelen and Sound-Off tubes on the Tomar supply many times with no problem. Although Whelen cries about mismatching, its never been a problem. The big problem with Whelen inserts is that about 1 out of maybe 10 are bad out of the box lately in the CPS kits.
If anyone ever uses the Tomar RECT series lightheads, BE CAREFUL WHEN TIGHTEING THE MOUNTING SCREWS! If you over tighten them, you'll crack the housing and break the hermetic seal caused moisture to accumulate in the lighthead. When I tighten them, I hold the Phillips driver bit on a steep angle so it slips once tightened.
I've used Whelen and Sound-Off tubes on the Tomar supply many times with no problem. Although Whelen cries about mismatching, its never been a problem. The big problem with Whelen inserts is that about 1 out of maybe 10 are bad out of the box lately in the CPS kits.
If anyone ever uses the Tomar RECT series lightheads, BE CAREFUL WHEN TIGHTEING THE MOUNTING SCREWS! If you over tighten them, you'll crack the housing and break the hermetic seal caused moisture to accumulate in the lighthead. When I tighten them, I hold the Phillips driver bit on a steep angle so it slips once tightened.
I'll say this, I have never had a problem with mositure in any of the the bars that I have owned or maintained. The current line bars (9M/Ultra/Libertly/Patriot) all uses expoxy coated power supplies etc.
Unless you are going to have your power supply in a vunerble area to water, I wouldn't worry too much. I would worry more about the external connectors that may be exposed to water. I have yet to have a problem, but I am sure some day I may. Then I will buy the waterproof connectors
As for fire trucks, as long as the lights are mounted properly, water shouldn't be an issue. All our trucks have strobe lights around the body, and we use Federal and Code 3 halogen lightbars...with the exception of our tower truck which is all strobe. All have been soaked nicely with a few 10,000 plus gallons of water and not a single problem. Do the install right, and you won't have a problem!
I like the PLII, but all that clicking gets annoying sometimes...especially if its going to be a bit until you get where you are going. Its cute the first 5 times...
Unless you are going to have your power supply in a vunerble area to water, I wouldn't worry too much. I would worry more about the external connectors that may be exposed to water. I have yet to have a problem, but I am sure some day I may. Then I will buy the waterproof connectors
As for fire trucks, as long as the lights are mounted properly, water shouldn't be an issue. All our trucks have strobe lights around the body, and we use Federal and Code 3 halogen lightbars...with the exception of our tower truck which is all strobe. All have been soaked nicely with a few 10,000 plus gallons of water and not a single problem. Do the install right, and you won't have a problem!
I like the PLII, but all that clicking gets annoying sometimes...especially if its going to be a bit until you get where you are going. Its cute the first 5 times...
Lowband radio. The original and non-complicated wide area interoperable communications system
