Key Loader service/repair question
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Key Loader service/repair question
Hey all...
Anyone good with keyloaders? I just got in two T3011CX loaders that won't power on. One of two things could be wrong... first, whatever usually kills a Keyloader, and secondly, I got the impression the seller may have "tested" them by attaching a 9v battery, probably backwards... and maybe even a 12v power supply! Not sure, didn't get a lot of info.
So the question is, would attaching a 9v battery backwards fry the loaders and what to check? I've scanned the boards for obvious signs of fried diodes and such, but everything appears good.
???
suggestions?
thanks!
Anyone good with keyloaders? I just got in two T3011CX loaders that won't power on. One of two things could be wrong... first, whatever usually kills a Keyloader, and secondly, I got the impression the seller may have "tested" them by attaching a 9v battery, probably backwards... and maybe even a 12v power supply! Not sure, didn't get a lot of info.
So the question is, would attaching a 9v battery backwards fry the loaders and what to check? I've scanned the boards for obvious signs of fried diodes and such, but everything appears good.
???
suggestions?
thanks!
•·•·•
Woody
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Woody
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- jnglmassiv
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Nine volt battery...just dumb.
Several possibilities come to mind:
1. Did you check the 2A fuse under the round cap at the bottom of the units?
2. Did you open the loaders and make sure all the boards are seated properly, chips in their carriers, and ribbon cables are plugged in?
3. Are you certain your battery is ok?
4. Are the button pads ok? One of my loaders has a bit of a wrinkle on the Power button and it sometimes takes a few presses to turn the thing on.
Several possibilities come to mind:
1. Did you check the 2A fuse under the round cap at the bottom of the units?
2. Did you open the loaders and make sure all the boards are seated properly, chips in their carriers, and ribbon cables are plugged in?
3. Are you certain your battery is ok?
4. Are the button pads ok? One of my loaders has a bit of a wrinkle on the Power button and it sometimes takes a few presses to turn the thing on.
loaded at work....
DOH!
Go figure, I cleaned contacts, wiggled, giggled and pressed around, searched the boards hi/lo for a fuse and figured it was a zener diode or something they used....
Still waiting on the manual for the loaders and I never suspected that was a cap with a fuse under it!
So, problem solved, took the fuse outta my good loader and both of these work fine. Thanks for the trout-slap.
Now what's the part number on that fuse so I can order a vat of them!
What's a fair asking price for a CX KVL?
thanks again, bro.

Go figure, I cleaned contacts, wiggled, giggled and pressed around, searched the boards hi/lo for a fuse and figured it was a zener diode or something they used....
Still waiting on the manual for the loaders and I never suspected that was a cap with a fuse under it!
So, problem solved, took the fuse outta my good loader and both of these work fine. Thanks for the trout-slap.
Now what's the part number on that fuse so I can order a vat of them!
What's a fair asking price for a CX KVL?
thanks again, bro.
•·•·•
Woody
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Woody
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short fuse...
Yeah, I was thinking GM300, but not sure if that's a 2A or 1A....?
Maybe the MT1000?
thanks,
Maybe the MT1000?
thanks,
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Woody
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Woody
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- What radios do you own?: Motorola, Icom, Sunair (HF).
Those are standard Buss 'Picofuse' type devices. They're built to be about the same size as a 1/4 watt resistor. Readily available from the bigger electronics suppliers (I think even Fry's has them in the parts aisles), but not from RastyShack.
The MX radio and the keyloaders do NOT use the same fuse. The MX uses a 3A or 5A, and the keyloader uses either a 1 or 2A (don't recall which, probably a 2).
Keep the peace(es).
The MX radio and the keyloaders do NOT use the same fuse. The MX uses a 3A or 5A, and the keyloader uses either a 1 or 2A (don't recall which, probably a 2).
Keep the peace(es).

Bruce Lane, KC7GR
"Raf tras spintern. Raf tras spoit."
- jnglmassiv
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*bump*
Okay, I've got one for you.
Mine is a T3011CX. Same problem, no powerup. I checked the fuse; it was popped, so I replaced it. Still no powerup. Upon closer inspection, it turned out that the EEprom chip (the one in the socket on the top board looking at the back of the unit) was only half plugged-in. I fixed that. Still no powerup.
I can hear the "speaker" in the top board clicking when I press the power button, so I'm reasonably certain the front flex is OK and that everything is plugged in where it's supposed to be. I'm also reasonably certain that it wasn't de-milled on account of the DES-XL hybrid still being there. Also, my battery is good enough to make an MX radio transmit, so that's not the issue either. I don't have a service manual atm, so any advice would be appreciated. If it's FUBAR, at least I'm not out a whole lot of money.
Okay, I've got one for you.
Mine is a T3011CX. Same problem, no powerup. I checked the fuse; it was popped, so I replaced it. Still no powerup. Upon closer inspection, it turned out that the EEprom chip (the one in the socket on the top board looking at the back of the unit) was only half plugged-in. I fixed that. Still no powerup.
I can hear the "speaker" in the top board clicking when I press the power button, so I'm reasonably certain the front flex is OK and that everything is plugged in where it's supposed to be. I'm also reasonably certain that it wasn't de-milled on account of the DES-XL hybrid still being there. Also, my battery is good enough to make an MX radio transmit, so that's not the issue either. I don't have a service manual atm, so any advice would be appreciated. If it's FUBAR, at least I'm not out a whole lot of money.
fried for life..
Probably corrupted the EPROM or someone tried to update it with a DX chip and put it in backwards and fried it... ?
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Woody
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Woody
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Try looking for a missing crystal. Some of the de-milled stuff I got were sythesized radios with the master osc crystal broken off or crushed. You can also check the dip switches, if they are in the wrong position they act up or don't work. I don't have that info right now, I would have to search through 2 garages to find it.
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curio....
Hey, out of curiosity, where did you get that loader??
[if ya don't mind me asking...]
[if ya don't mind me asking...]
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Woody
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Woody
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Re: curio....
Greedbay, from the same guy that has/had all the Astro Saber 1s. It's in pristine shape, so it'd kinda be a shame if it was totally bricked.Woody_99 wrote:Hey, out of curiosity, where did you get that loader??
[if ya don't mind me asking...]
dead key....
LOL.... ya know, I find ebay has the LOWEST radio prices, where it used to have the highest prices. However, it's a lot more risk these days too....
Ok, just curious where it came from...
Check the EPROM again, if it's fried, it won't power up. Check that the notch should match the print underneath; and if it's backward, it's dead.
[but not totally bricked]
Ok, just curious where it came from...
Check the EPROM again, if it's fried, it won't power up. Check that the notch should match the print underneath; and if it's backward, it's dead.
[but not totally bricked]
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Woody
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Woody
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I'll have to post pictures then, 'cause I'm fairly certain their was no OSC crystal in there and definitely no bank of DIP switches.
The EEPROM getting plugged in backwards and then powered up to "demil" it is a definite possibility. The case and the guts looked pretty cherry and not-jacked with, but someone obviously tampered with it to get the EEPROM only plugged in on one side and the fuse popped.
The EEPROM getting plugged in backwards and then powered up to "demil" it is a definite possibility. The case and the guts looked pretty cherry and not-jacked with, but someone obviously tampered with it to get the EEPROM only plugged in on one side and the fuse popped.
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Okay, I was wrong. There is a OSC crystal, but no DIP switch bank.
http://img146.imageshack.us/img146/2485 ... er12ia.jpg
http://img283.imageshack.us/img283/1597 ... er27ww.jpg




So there you go. Look kosher? It's still dead as a doornail, and short of dropping a new EEPROM in it, I don't know what to do.
http://img146.imageshack.us/img146/2485 ... er12ia.jpg
http://img283.imageshack.us/img283/1597 ... er27ww.jpg




So there you go. Look kosher? It's still dead as a doornail, and short of dropping a new EEPROM in it, I don't know what to do.
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Ok, what makes you think they are CX keyloaders, other that the plate on the back. I always thought the newer style BX,CX,DX had double proms, not the single type on your keyloaders circuit board, or am I missing something? They appear to be AX series which is only upgradeable to a limited BX which will work with X-9000 ( single key, multi key and OTAR), analog Spectra and Systems Saber. I even have a few of the BX upgrade proms. I have a few both series, and I will have to open them both up and compare. Will get back to you on that.
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Don't get me lying, this is the first keyloader I've been inside of.RADIOMAN2002 wrote:Ok, what makes you think they are CX keyloaders, other that the plate on the back. I always thought the newer style BX,CX,DX had double proms, not the single type on your keyloaders circuit board, or am I missing something?
Anyone with a service manual want to check part numbers?
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Ok, here's what I found based upon the 6 keyloaders I have. I opened every one of them, and it appears that the NON_XL keyloaders have the dip switches, and 1 prom. Yours is a 2 prom version( u104 and u103), and according to my units the firmware, yours checks out as a BX or CX version. My unit has firmware TVN6087B yours hasan ver A, I don't know if its just a bug fix or and upgrade.
If you cannot confirm that the prom was installed backwards, I would start at the main power transister and check that you are getting power from the battery at at least 6.5 vdc and the switch line from the keypad. You may have to do a little trace finding. Also I would open the front keypad up to make sure they didn't damage something else up there.Other than that I am sure the book for it is still availible, check around, it is usually something simple. BTW most Motorola products have excellent reverse and overvoltage protection, that blows the fuse first.
If you cannot confirm that the prom was installed backwards, I would start at the main power transister and check that you are getting power from the battery at at least 6.5 vdc and the switch line from the keypad. You may have to do a little trace finding. Also I would open the front keypad up to make sure they didn't damage something else up there.Other than that I am sure the book for it is still availible, check around, it is usually something simple. BTW most Motorola products have excellent reverse and overvoltage protection, that blows the fuse first.
3011CX
Hi Y'all,
I can confirm that the pictured unit is a "CX" - the board numbers match.
What DOESN'T match is the EPROM - the "TVN 6087" number is nothing like the "TRN 9853A" that my manual calls for. My guess is, somebody changed out the EEPROM to repair/upgrade another unit somewhere.. The date is about right, though (my CX manual schematic is dated 3/90)
73 DE Hartley
I can confirm that the pictured unit is a "CX" - the board numbers match.
What DOESN'T match is the EPROM - the "TVN 6087" number is nothing like the "TRN 9853A" that my manual calls for. My guess is, somebody changed out the EEPROM to repair/upgrade another unit somewhere.. The date is about right, though (my CX manual schematic is dated 3/90)
73 DE Hartley
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Standard Motorola, I would never go by the parts book for firmware. 9 times out of 10 it's incorrect. It's a good place to start but anytime I needed a part for anything Securenet, radios or keyloaders I called the Bat parts ID. BTW my factory fresh CX keyloaded has the TVN 6087b firmware in it, and it works just fine. Now since it is a US Gov model, it is possible that they had a specific prom made for them , seen that many a time. Changing the board probably will not fix the prom problem, my best advice is to get the service manual from Moto, call parts ID and see it there are any still around, even if its NLA see if they can put you in touch with somebody who worked on the product. I did that for an early version of the Digital Spectra-Tac voter. Turns out he gave me a part number that was still availible, probably because no one knew that it existed
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