TOPIC CLOSED BY CREATOR - THANKS!

[RGV Member Roy]

-------- THANKS FOR THE HELP
BUT I WILL HAVE A PRO DO THE INSTALL! -----------------

I am new to this. I have never done this. I do want to do this so I can learn and gain experience, even if it is minor install job. Thanks.

Project: Install my Radio Shack Pro95 HANDHELD Scanner into my
vehicle.

Vehicle: 2001 Chevy Cavalier 4-door.

Antenna: I will use a glass mount Cellular antenna from Tessco.
Either 64523 or 90951. Help me decide.

Cable : What type? What length? What connectors go on each end? Or
Will the antenna come with a cable already?

Power: My Radio Shack Pro95 specifies 9VDC 300AM. I would like this
to be connected so it turns on and off when I insert my key. What
other accessories will I need buy in order to accomplish this.

Misc. Info.: I have ordered a goose neck mount for my hand held
scanner on ebay. The mount uses the front left seat bolt
to secure it.

I believe this can be a simple install job (esp. for all the pros in this forum!!) So I humbly request how-to help for my bumble install job.
If I left out any other detail you might need to help me, just let me know!
Thanks All!
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[wa2zdy]

Radio Shaft sells DC/DC adaptors that will plug into the cigarette lighter and give variable/adjustable voltages output. One of them does in fact have a 9v output and I'm sure it's more than 300 ma. As long as your lighter isn't polluted with ash residue from use, it will be fine for this application.

The antenna you purchase will have cable on it already. Since you're going to be using it at 800MHz, cut the cable to length once installed. You don't want the loss that goes with excess cable coiled up at those frequencies.

You will need whatever connector on the end of the cable that matches that on your scanner; it's probably a BNC. But be sure as some use SMA and others.

I know this is not the answer you were looking for, but in this case, lots of work is pointless. Keeping things as simple as possible while still keeping them proper for the job is the way to go. A big wiring job would just be stupendous overkill.

And as for the gooseneck, that's a good idea. Mount it where you will. Just be sure when you drill that there's nothing on the other side of whatever surface you're drilling. Things with unintended holes on the other side of the firewall, hump, etc, get real expensive real quick.

Good luck.

[RGV Member Roy]

Thanks.......


1. ....variable/adjustable voltages output.

I have this. But I hate the loose long cord and the loose long cable from my current mag mount antenna. I would like to wire it the correct way and get rid of all the cables/wires. Everything hidden and neat.

2. I should use the BNC connector for my Pro95. Got It!

3. Will the cable that comes with the antenna be the right one for my use? Should I run in through the headliner down the door pannel to the center consle, Or run it along both right passenger doors and then along to the center consle?

4. The Gooseneck mount will utilize the bolt from the seat. So drilling! Just loosen the bold and slip the lip under the bolt adn re-tighten.

That said, I would really like to take the time to have the correct wire/power supply job done. How do I do it.

And thanks for the responses so far!
[/quote]

[Tom in D.C.]

The voltage your car supplies is much higher than the voltage the
handheld scanner requires, so between the car's source and the
radio you must use a device to cut the voltage. It's a "black box"
that contains something called a three-terminal regulator, so you
have to find some place to hide this unit. On the original power
take-off location, you're probably going to want to find an unused
fuse point on the main fuse panel and connect the power wire
there. Hiding the wires is what professional installers do, and it
usually involves removing plastic molding and running the wire
underneath. Your radio is just a receiver, so you can use the fuse
panel for power; if it were a transmitter you'd have to run the power
wire directly to the battery.

At some point the power wire is going to have to come out in the open
for the short run to the radio itself.

Keep us informed.

[RGV Member Roy]

Tom in DC

Ok were making head-way.

I saw the Adjustable-Voltage Regulator LM317T and the TO-220/TO-202 Aluminum Heat Sink on Radio Shack.com (@2.29 & $1.69)
What does it get connect to and how. What goes on the end of those three seperate connectors. How will I know it will only put out 9VDC for the scanner?

On the un used fuse point. How to a supply power to this? One end to that fuse point panel and the other end to what? What guage wire?

I know I can and I want to do this. Just be paitent with me and my questions please!

Thank You --------- Thank You!

[kb0nly]

Don't over complicate matters. I built a setup for a handheld scanner a while back using nothing more than a fixed voltage regulator and a pcb mount relay.

The reason for the relay was this particular user was scanning frequencies including lowband and we needed to isolate the ignition switched source of power from the supply power to the regulator for noise prevention. Made a huge difference in noise.

The circuit was VERY basic. Just a piece of perf board, a relay that is switched on by an ignition switched source from the vehicle, i usually tap off the supply side of the car stereo fuse so that the radio follows the ignition switch, on, off while cranking, and back on after engine start, the supply to the regulator comes from a battery direct source of power, and then of course a 9v 1amp fixed regulator in a TO-220 package.

Of course you also need to fuse the ignition switched power and supply power, and a 1amp fuse in the supply cord to the scanner is also a good idea. Stick it all in a small project box and you got your ignition switched 9v power for the scanner.

The regulator i used was an NTE-1910, 9v 1amp, with a max input of 35v! The output max is 9.45v at 35v input. This also helps protect your radio since if you ever have an alternator problem that increases the supply voltage your not going to get the output to the radio going higher. Not all vehicles are created equal, i have seen everything from 13.2-15v with the engine running, alternator and wiring age and so forth causes a lot of these problems.

This regulator is only $1.69 from Mouser.com, part number 526-NTE1910

If you need a more detailed description i can dig around and find the schematic i created for this setup.

[RGV Member Roy]

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THANKS FOR ALL THE HELP. WILL HAVE A PRO DO THE JOB.

THANKS AGAIN!

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