MOSTAR Amped Speaker HSN1000A wire coding

d_stew · Post by **d_stew** » Wed Jan 04, 2006 1:55 pm

Can someone help me out with which wire is which on this speaker? I want to put a 3.5mm plug on it to plug it into a receiver. It won't need to be muted for PA or transmit.

PETNRDX · Post by **PETNRDX** » Wed Jan 04, 2006 4:04 pm

The HSN1000A is an amplified speaker, so you will either need to bypass the amp circuit, or power it externally.
Pardon the explanation, but from your post, I was not sure what you were going to do.
Here are the pinouts of the existing plug:
1 Blu input
2 blk pwr gnd
3 Blk/wht speaker Hi (this is usually jumpered to pin 6)
4 input shield (grounds inside the speaker box)
5 red +12v
6 wht (amp output to speaker, this is jumpered to pin 3)
The purpose for the 3 to 6 jumper is to use an external speaker with the amp in the box. For example, running it to a PA system.
PM me if any further questions.
BTW, the internal speaker is 2 ohm impedance, the imput to the amp is 2400 ohm impedance, and the amp is 6 watts.

d_stew · Post by **d_stew** » Wed Jan 04, 2006 8:15 pm

yeah, should've been more specific about what I want to do.

Ultimately, I want to have a power cable going to 13v power and grnd, and another cable with a 3.5mm plug.

The plug on my speaker does have six pins, but the pin/wires you listed don't quite match mine. I have a thick blue wire that crimps to two wires that meet two pins. These are a thick wire with clear insulation, and normal sized wire with braid. The other four wires go into one pin each. They are white, red, black, and a black with white splotches.

Would I be correct to hook the red to power, the black to ground, and then the blue and black/white wires to the speaker plug? That would leave the white wire connected to nothing...

PETNRDX · Post by **PETNRDX** » Thu Jan 05, 2006 12:31 am

No, that won't work.
You would have the inputs and outputs mixed up.
I will try to make it a little clearer.
You will probably find that the thick blue wire is actually a shielded wire.
So, hook up like this:
pin 1 blue wire goes to "tip" on your plug.
pin 4 shield goes to "ring" on your plug.
pin 5 red goes to switched plus 12 v (ya don't want it on all the time)
pin 2 black goes to negative.
pin 6 white MUST BE CONNECTED TO pin 3 BLK/WHT.
As I said in the above post, white and black/white must be jumpered together. If you wanted to use an external speaker with this amp, you could hook the external speaker to the white and ground.
Conversly, if you wanted to just use the speaker in this box, and not the amp, hook to the blk/wht as the speaker input, and the ground.

d_stew · Post by **d_stew** » Thu Jan 05, 2006 8:15 am

I'm defeinitely wanting to use the amp, since the power out on my receiver is for headphones, and is not amped.

I REALY appreciate your help. As you noticed, I'm just knowleageble enough to fry the thing.

Just let me confirm one thing with you about the blue wire. The two wires coming from it, which go to the plug, are really the inner wire and it's sheild? So I just want the inner, clear wire to connect to the plug tip, and the shield to connect to the outer ring, right?

I understand that I need to connect the white and WHT/BLK wires together, but also want to make sure that they only need to be connected to each other, and NOT to anything else.

PETNRDX · Post by **PETNRDX** » Thu Jan 05, 2006 10:45 am

Yes, the wht and the Blk/wht don't connect to anything else, and as you say the center (clear) goes to tip and its shield goes to ring.
And its ok to not be that knowledgeable, asking questions is how we all learn.
Better ask that to let out the magic smoke....

d_stew · Post by **d_stew** » Fri Jan 06, 2006 8:10 am

I'm knowledgeable in other areas, and never mind helping people. I think most people don't mind helping, but it's always nice when I get thanked for helping. So, thanks!

I'm going to try to find time this weekend to install the speaker. I'll let you know how it turns out.

Dave

d_stew · Post by **d_stew** » Mon Jan 09, 2006 8:26 am

Well, I think I have a bum speaker. I spent $15 on the wires and adapters, and about 30 minutes on the wiring. I'm sure I hooked everything up correctly, but I don't even hear the amp kick on through the speaker.

I have a good multi-tester, but not a clue on how to troubleshoot the amp. I'm also not sure it's work my time to even check. Think I should break into the case or blow it off and buy another here or on ebay?

PETNRDX · Post by **PETNRDX** » Mon Jan 09, 2006 12:23 pm

Ya really can't hurt it by opening it....

phrawg · Post by **phrawg** » Mon Jan 09, 2006 1:22 pm

You may have a muted speaker there. One of the other lines
in a lot of the "power speakers" is made to follow squelch logic
from the convertacom it is plugged in to. In other words the speaker may
be "squelched" ! You need to get an exact wire usage chart on that
one and explore that possibility. I have a few power speakers for
mt series and saber series vehicle adapters and they follow
that convention. If that is the case you need to supply a logic
low or high as needed to that line to open the amp up.
Hope this may help. Phrawg

d_stew · Post by **d_stew** » Mon Jan 09, 2006 1:38 pm

Hmmmm...good point. I'm guessing that's what PETNRDX meant by connecting the wires from PINs 3 and 6 though. I'm just wondering if we've got those correct...

PETNRDX · Post by **PETNRDX** » Mon Jan 09, 2006 1:57 pm

That model of amplified speaker is not used like the ones Phrawg is talking about.
The older NSN6027A and TSN6015a versions were used with convertacom units. They required either squech mute, or bypassing that circuit.
The newer HSN1000a I see most commonly used with MTR2000 base stations & repeaters.
As long as you are sure the speaker you have is the 1000A, the second post above is the correct hookup.
The hsn1000a should be the perfect speaker for what you want to do, its just a matter of getting the connections right, assuming that it was not a bad speaker to begin with.

d_stew · Post by **d_stew** » Mon Jan 09, 2006 1:59 pm

Well then, I probably have a bad speaker. It is the HSN1000A. Thanks!

phrawg · Post by **phrawg** » Mon Jan 09, 2006 4:38 pm

ahhhh.... ! and now I know that there is a power speaker that
does NOT use a mute logic line. We learn every day. Thanks, Phrawg

motorola_otaku · Post by **motorola_otaku** » Tue Jan 10, 2006 2:38 pm

I'm using one in the car on my Bearcrap scanner. They do work well, BUT the shield on the audio input line goes straight to DC ground. If you want to use it on most anything, you'll need to put a .01 cap in line with the shield to get rid of the ground loop and keep it from popping the amp in the radio.

Post by **bradlington** » Wed Aug 02, 2006 12:35 pm

I have just received one of the white speakers and this is what I have found:

red--also yellow.......................................12V Supply
Black--also White.....................................Ground

Brown.(surrounded by shield).....................Audio high
Shield.......................................................Audio ground unbalanced

Green (marked SQ on cct board..................2K7(or 1K) up to Supply.

This has given successful interfacing to a portable radio and IT IS LOUD .

This is perfect as I have a modern dual band in the mobile and due to the recent changes in Deviation from 25kHz to 12,5 Khz this is going to help.

Anyone got a decent circuit for this unit to download as for my records.

I will be checking where it goes into clipping but will save that for a daytime test.

Regards Brad ZS5SWT /ZS5BG