Alright... how do I take the guts out of this 1250 now?

Jammer · Post by **Jammer** » Thu Jan 05, 2006 1:23 pm

Trying to put a refurb kit on a HT1250. Got the buttons off, can't find any snaps to hold it in the front case. Do you just pry the body out of the case or are there some releases somewhere I can't see?

Jammer · Post by **Jammer** » Thu Jan 05, 2006 2:53 pm

OK forget that... I've got it out of the case. Now anyone know the recommended method for removing the programming strip from the radio without ruining it? The black adhesive strip is off, but it appears as though the pads are actually glued to the case body.

Is it recommended to use heat to loosen the pads?

HLA · Post by **HLA** » Thu Jan 05, 2006 2:54 pm

take the knobs off of the top and with a flat bade screwdriver pry between the metal backing plate and the plastic housing at the bottom of the radio and it will come right out. then use a small jewlers flat screwdriver and lift up on the terminals holding the ribbon cables and you are set. when you put it back togather make shure the o-ring around the radio is in the right place and seals correctly.

Post by **wavetar** » Thu Jan 05, 2006 3:28 pm

Jammer wrote:OK forget that... I've got it out of the case. Now anyone know the recommended method for removing the programming strip from the radio without ruining it? The black adhesive strip is off, but it appears as though the pads are actually glued to the case body.

Is it recommended to use heat to loosen the pads?

Yes, bit of heat from a low air-flow heat gun can really help out, although it's not absolutely necessary. It's basically a double sided adhesive strip underneath. If you're careful & use a small enough flat blade/exacto blade to start prying it up, it should come out just fine. I find it easier to pull it up along with the accessory flex, as opposed to trying to take the flex off first, and then removing the adhesive strip.

Todd

Jammer · Post by **Jammer** » Thu Jan 05, 2006 5:01 pm

well.. although I was in too much of a hurry to wait for advice from you guys I managed to get it done. Man they glue everything into these radios:) You can't imaging the shock I felt when I was taking out the LCD and the backing plate separated from the display. I though I cracked the whole thing in half. The next screwup which I can definitely say I would never do again is replacing the rubber gasket around the frame. The one on the radio was fine but idiot me was going to replace it without knowing the rubber studs hold it in place between the PCB and the metal frame !! SO when I tore it off imagine my surprise whe I saw little orange dots still stuck in the frame, and ME with no star wrench to take out the screws. That took the most time, trying to do it with a small flat blade.

But it's together now and it functions OK. You guys use rubber contact cement to adhere the programming stip back to the cover?

THe heat worked well, took of the label from the old radio, although I could use a new one to perfect the look.

The software version in this radio is R01.00.01

Is that the firmware version or the CPS version? Anyone know if I'm going to have a problem in the programming of the radio with this old a version?

Thanks for taking the time guys to help out, I wish I had the patience to listen before whipping out the screwdriver.

mr.syntrx · Post by **mr.syntrx** » Thu Jan 05, 2006 7:30 pm

The old 1250 firmware is full of bugs, which may or may not cause you some trouble.

Josh · Post by **Josh** » Thu Jan 05, 2006 9:59 pm

VHF models, were prone to the bulk of the early HT1250 problems... and an SRN was put out, as well as free radio repair to those with the certain serial numbers, but that has long since expired. I had a radio like that, it gave me a LOT of problems (VHF).... Needless to say, I don't have it anymore.

Oddly enough, an HT1250 I currently have (VHF, was R2.00.03- now current) uses a phillips head screwdriver to dismantle the boards....... Is that odd or what? My newer UHF HT1250, and new 750 are all torx.

-Josh

thebigphish · Post by **thebigphish** » Mon Jan 09, 2006 12:35 pm

i had noticed that switchover to torx also...we have some firmware 4ish boards that still had phillips heads in them...so it must have been a later switch over to the new connectors.

AR15Ron · Post by **AR15Ron** » Tue Jan 10, 2006 3:17 am

Jammer wrote:
The software version in this radio is R01.00.01

Is that the firmware version or the CPS version? Anyone know if I'm going to have a problem in the programming of the radio with this old a version?

Thanks for taking the time guys to help out, I wish I had the patience to listen before whipping out the screwdriver.

Depending on what you have for a rib you can flash it yourself. The firmware is available for free if you have an account I think. Judging by your earlier posts regarding software though I'm guessing that wont be an option. I am still using an older software version on mine just in case I want to put it on ebay and I reflashed it to the newest firmware, it didnt seem to affect the software version required to program the radio at all. So if you bring it to a shop and get it reflashed you should be able to continue using your older software. If you are in MA I can recomend someone, just PM me.

Ron

Jammer · Post by **Jammer** » Tue Jan 10, 2006 2:03 pm

well the codeplug was saved. Then the radio was programmed to specs.

One thing noted was that when trying to program the P1,2,3 buttons they don't seem to take. The functions attempted where to switch zones on short press but nothing happens.

Maybe need newer firmware to get functionality in those buttons?

Jammer · Post by **Jammer** » Tue Jan 10, 2006 3:09 pm

The radio was programmed with a RIBless cable straight to PC. How would the radio be put into boostrap mode without the inline switch using a RIBless cable?

Josh · Post by **Josh** » Tue Jan 10, 2006 6:48 pm

you don't. Hence the creation of the inline switch for flash firmware upgrading.