HT1k/MTS2K Battery question

[High_order1]

Hey -

I can't seem to get a decent charge out of any but one of my batteries. I am using an NTN1171A cup, but the huge power supply puked out some time ago. So I am using a 12 volt 1200mA wall wart (it also charges my flashlight).

Could that be the problem, as I seem to recall the oem part actually put out like 16VDC or something.

Strangest part is that I *just* ordered a new aftermarket battery, and it didn't last its' first eight hour shift.

Thanks!


-Shawn

[mattsca]

what chemistry is the new battery nicd, li-on, nmh? and who is the manufacture of the aftermaket battery?

[escomm]

Strangest part is that I *just* ordered a new aftermarket battery, and it didn't last its' first eight hour shift.

There's nothing strange about that at all

[Will]

Hey -

Strangest part is that I *just* ordered a new aftermarket battery, and it didn't last its' first eight hour shift.

Thanks!


-Shawn

Did you charge your "new" aftermarket battery? In the shoe charger? "new" batteries require several charge discharge cycles to come up to full capacity, and this depends on the mfgr. and battery type.

The NTN1171 should charge most batteries, but it only charges at 900 - 1300 ma or so, so operating off of 12 volts is no problem.

Now the "kink", some aftermarket batteries have the wrong thermistor in them which can either overheat or under charge the batteries in the charger.

The NTN117x series chargers are NOT ment to have a battery left in them for more than 2 hours after the green Complete LED comes on. The charger is still charging the battery but at a lower rate and over charged batteries can result.

[High_order1]

Just wrote a long winded reply, but hit save instead, and lost it when I arrowed back.

It's a no-name 2400mAh ni-Cd battery. Charged it once, pulled it when the charger displayed green. Wasnt as warm as I would've expected.

Is there a way to load test the battery, and test the charger? Could it be possible the internal electronics are cutting the charge cycle early, or did I just get a bum battery?

Thanks for all the responses!

-Shawn

[W6JK]

The Jedi rapid chargers are not meant to have the battery pulled when the LED goes green. You're only 85% or so charged at that point. You need to leave the battery in there for another 2-3 hours to trickle charge it the rest of the way. I find that I usually don't really know just when it went green, so I leave it in for 3 hours total and call it good. It seems to work fine that way.

Jeff

[High_order1]

Hm -


guess I need to google for a manual for that thing. But, as long as I can present it with a couple of amps, I can still feed it 12 volts, right, or do I need to start hunting a used monster wall wart to rule out that variable?

-Shawn

[W6JK]

13.8 volts at 1.5 amps. Sorry, I meant to include that previously.

'JK

[HLA]

i've got some used oem wall warts for the rapid charger if you are interested? they are the ones with the transformer in the middle of the cable. $20 each plus shipping to the us48

[Will]

" It's a no-name 2400mAh ni-Cd battery. "

If it is a 2400mah battery, it should take two to two and a half hours to 'go green'.

So--- give the battery a few discharge-- charge cycles to see if it gets a longer life.

[Terry_Glover]

I can still feed it 12 volts, right, or do I need to start hunting a used monster wall wart to rule out that variable?

The wall wart you're using should be fine for any JEDI NiCad or NiMh battery.

I don't know about LiON though, probably OK for them too if you have the correct shoe for LiON chemistry, since the charging circuitry is in the shoe.

Terry