Dead HT1250
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Dead HT1250
I have a dead HT1250 no matter what battery I use on it, and it has not been dropped or got into any moisture at all. The Motorola shop said the main chip is bad and I wanted a second opinion. I saw a post in here once about eprom fixes and I thought maybe that might be it. I have hooked it up to the programmer and it wont read the radio at all. Any I ideas on what this could be, any help is greatly appreciated.
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VE9MP
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Re: Dead HT1250
First thing I would check would be the pico fuse....
-----Nick-----
"I can trip some repeaters in Maine, but I'm not getting any audio into it, is there some type of tone frequency I use? If so do you know what one is for Maine?" - The SMT Machine
"I can trip some repeaters in Maine, but I'm not getting any audio into it, is there some type of tone frequency I use? If so do you know what one is for Maine?" - The SMT Machine
Re: Dead HT1250
Would like to but Im not the technical, can you give me alitte insight on that please. I have a friend that Im sure can check it if he knows what to look for.
Re: Dead HT1250
The fuse (F501) is located on the rear of the chassis, so you will have to remove this in order to gain access to the fuse.
The B+ lead on the HT1250 is the far left contact finger, and following the trace you will see a small rectangular chip jumping a tiny open space on the B+ line, this should be the fuse.
I think this is a 4Amp fuse, so anything rated for less current will probably fail once the radio is keyed the first time.
The 4 screws to remove the chassis are T5 Torx screws, and one caveat here is....DON'T overtighten! These tiny screws WILL strip if you bear down on them.
Two are located at the top of the board, one in the center and one last one at the bottom of the board.
The PA module will probably have a small piecce of heat conducting 'tape' attached to the pedestal, do not remove this, it is required to provide good thermal contact to the chassis and provides the required thermal bonding for proper heat transfer.
Use a small wattage (under 40 watts) soldering iron, and solder wick, or a vacuum desoldering pump.
The B+ lead on the HT1250 is the far left contact finger, and following the trace you will see a small rectangular chip jumping a tiny open space on the B+ line, this should be the fuse.
I think this is a 4Amp fuse, so anything rated for less current will probably fail once the radio is keyed the first time.
The 4 screws to remove the chassis are T5 Torx screws, and one caveat here is....DON'T overtighten! These tiny screws WILL strip if you bear down on them.
Two are located at the top of the board, one in the center and one last one at the bottom of the board.
The PA module will probably have a small piecce of heat conducting 'tape' attached to the pedestal, do not remove this, it is required to provide good thermal contact to the chassis and provides the required thermal bonding for proper heat transfer.
Use a small wattage (under 40 watts) soldering iron, and solder wick, or a vacuum desoldering pump.