I need everyones thoughts on installing a Power Terminal inside the vehicle, running a cable from the battery to the inside of the vehicle. My thought is that all we do is run a bunch of power cables to the battery and I would like to install one inside the vehicle, since everything I have is remote mounted.
What are the Pro's and Con's? I know that the further I run from the battery, the less voltage I get through drop in resistance in the cable. You can also get noise depending on your run. I was thinking of installing a new terminal connector on the battery that would allow a larger AWG cable to run to a terminal block inside the vehicle, where I could connect all power leads from the radio's etc. What do you think?
Power Terminal
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apco25
- Posts: 2685
- Joined: Tue Oct 30, 2001 4:00 pm
- What radios do you own?: APX / Astro 25 / Harris
You'll have no problems at the distances you're covering in a vehicle really wont contribute to voltage drop. Just use good quality heavy duty automotive cable like 4ga or 2ga wire straight from the battery. Get a circuit breaker from TST (Transportation Safety Devices) gall's sells them among others and then tap from there. If you want to do it the pro way add a 100amp or better relay and that is ignition switched. Its up to you just how and where you need to mount it. Sure makes moving radios around easier since you don't have to open the hood and fish wires through.
a #4 cable with PROPERLY CRIMPED or soldered ends will be fine. I don't like the TST breaker, since they aren't weatherproof and WILL fail if you are in a wet/salty envirinment. They work great if inside of the vehicle, however. You could use a standard type "wafer" fuse and holder assembly that's normally used for HD car stereo. They perform very well and water doesn't affect them. There is also no time delay in them.
For the distribution block, you can use a multi-fuse ATO panel or even a distribution block for stereo install.
If you need a switching solonoid, go to a local auto parts store and pick up a Borg-Warner part# S55 solonoid. They are rated 100A continuous and they work under the hood in heat and water.
Get power from an OEM junction block or near the battery.
Remember....now that you have good B+, make sure you have equal grounding for all of that equipment. Self tapping TEK screws into the floor are not good grounds!!!
Run a #4 from the dash mount bolt located on the A-pillar (or even the seat mount bolt) into the console area. a single 5/16 X 1" stud makes a good point for a common ground termination. Put the stud in the console or any other sturdy area.
For the distribution block, you can use a multi-fuse ATO panel or even a distribution block for stereo install.
If you need a switching solonoid, go to a local auto parts store and pick up a Borg-Warner part# S55 solonoid. They are rated 100A continuous and they work under the hood in heat and water.
Get power from an OEM junction block or near the battery.
Remember....now that you have good B+, make sure you have equal grounding for all of that equipment. Self tapping TEK screws into the floor are not good grounds!!!
Run a #4 from the dash mount bolt located on the A-pillar (or even the seat mount bolt) into the console area. a single 5/16 X 1" stud makes a good point for a common ground termination. Put the stud in the console or any other sturdy area.