Input wanted on wiring for upcoming install
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- sglass
- Batboard $upporter
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- What radios do you own?: sonic screwdriver
Input wanted on wiring for upcoming install
victim 92 blazer
oh so my idea is to have a 2 buses
one constant power (right off the battery)
one ignition switched
I'll just ground each radio to the body at the closest point to where I mount it.
Radios
110 watt low band maratrac
kenwood dual band ham rig
mt1000 convertacom
220 mobile
and now I am on a slight remote mount spectra kick (this may fade with time)
any foreseeable problems with having a block up from for power and ignition with the same in the rear?
oh so my idea is to have a 2 buses
one constant power (right off the battery)
one ignition switched
I'll just ground each radio to the body at the closest point to where I mount it.
Radios
110 watt low band maratrac
kenwood dual band ham rig
mt1000 convertacom
220 mobile
and now I am on a slight remote mount spectra kick (this may fade with time)
any foreseeable problems with having a block up from for power and ignition with the same in the rear?
A chassis ground will work just fine. Don't fall for the old wives' tale about having to run a ground to the battery. Just ensure the battery-to-chassis cable is large enough.
Go to a good auto parts store and pick up a Borg-Warner solonoid # S55. Run a FUSED (at battery) #8 cable (or larger, if needed) from the fuseholder to the equipment location and mount the solonoid here. The battery lead goes to one large lug of the solonoid. Connect the small sol. lead to a switched key-on power source via 5A fuse. You now have continuous AND switched hi-current feed at the equipment location. One large terminal is hot and the other is switched- at one location.
There usually isn't a need for a second battery, unless you will be Xmitting with the engine off for extended periods of time. I leave 2 CDMs and a scanner on for 3 days and my Cherokee starts just fine.
If you are worried about battery drainage, use a ChargeGard unit.
Go to a good auto parts store and pick up a Borg-Warner solonoid # S55. Run a FUSED (at battery) #8 cable (or larger, if needed) from the fuseholder to the equipment location and mount the solonoid here. The battery lead goes to one large lug of the solonoid. Connect the small sol. lead to a switched key-on power source via 5A fuse. You now have continuous AND switched hi-current feed at the equipment location. One large terminal is hot and the other is switched- at one location.
There usually isn't a need for a second battery, unless you will be Xmitting with the engine off for extended periods of time. I leave 2 CDMs and a scanner on for 3 days and my Cherokee starts just fine.
If you are worried about battery drainage, use a ChargeGard unit.
I guess putting the solenoid INSIDE the vehicles would save the hassle of pulling two hot wires into the vehicle. Though, this is assuming you have a nice open area to put this, like in a console or something.
That Borg relay... Is the continuous duty high amp relay? How many amps is it rated for?
That Borg relay... Is the continuous duty high amp relay? How many amps is it rated for?
"I'll eat you like a plate of bacon and eggs in the morning. "
- Some loser on rr.com
eBay at it's finest:
Me: "What exactly is a 900Mhz UHF CB?"
Them: "A very nice CB at 900Mhz speed!"
- Some loser on rr.com
eBay at it's finest:
Me: "What exactly is a 900Mhz UHF CB?"
Them: "A very nice CB at 900Mhz speed!"
Relay source
Check out http://www.allelectronics.com . They have a continuous duty relay rated 80 Amps for $7.50. They also carry all kinds of other interesting stuff.
Kevin
Kevin